Part number needed

[jgurnari]

female end of the door switch part number needed.

[Ctopher]

Download the PET for your year car.

https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/

CTopher

[jgurnari]

already have PET. doesn’t show a part number

[MBAtarga]

We are all assuming your car is a Porsche. Allow us to help you - by providing your car model and year please.

[fintstone]

I think his is an 85. He will likely need to buy the harness if he cannot fix the connector as Porsche does not separate/sell just the connector (as far as I know). If he could find some manufacturer info or a number on the connector, he might be able to find it elsewhere.

[jgurnari]

thanks

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

We are all assuming your car is a Porsche. Allow us to help you - by providing your car model and year please.

[fintstone]

Pretty sure this is the connector and harness: 91161216303

What is wrong with your connector?

[jgurnari]

as you can see in the pictures looks beat up. Not holding the wires securely. Been trying to figure out why my mirrors only pan..NO TILT!! Think its the magnet ...but all 4?!!! ...seems impossible for all 4 mirrors to have the same issue.
Troubleshooting out of the car with 12V transformer. so dont think its the switch or connector but again connector looks bad.

Originally Posted by fintstone

Pretty sure this is the connector and harness: 91161216303

What is wrong with your connector?

[fintstone]

I assume you have a meter since you have pulled out a diode to test. Just use it to make sure none of the pins are shorted and that you have a good connection and save a hundred bucks on parts. Maybe our local wiring guy (timmy2 has the connector).

What makes you think you have bad magnets...or diodes? It looks to me like you are just destroying mirrors if you have 4 that all do the same thing. If you have two that do that...then you can probably rule out the mirror. It is most likely your switch or the wires that go to it do not have the correct voltage/ground.

[jgurnari]

magnet clutch is not moving...tested it, no power in magnet...or it dead. Tried in and out of car on 12V transformer

[fintstone]

So, when you put 12v on the white wire and ground on the yellow/brown, the little plunger in the solenoid did not move? You should hear a slight clicking sound

[jgurnari]

are you say I should be putting power to all 3 wires together on 12v gator clip or Y/W together and black(ground) separate?

[fintstone]

No. If you are testing the solenoid alone (out of the circuit as in your photo or in the circuit), all you need is 12v and ground...but with the diode attached (you must apply the power in the right polarity). Your photo shows a solenoid with a white wire and a yellow/brown wire (or appears to). If you were testing the mirror with it put together, you would apply 12v and ground to the motor to see if it runs. It should move the mirror in one direction (left or right) and then reverse the leads (swap ground and 12v) to move it in the other direction (right or left).

Then, to test up and down, you would apply 12v and ground to the solenoid (but only on the correct direction per the diode) as noted above (or it will not work). You should hear a click that mans the solenoid is engaged. Then put 12 and ground on the motor wires and it should move either up or down. Swap the leads and it should move in the other direction.

You can test the diode (ask if you don't know how) and your switch with an ohm meter. If it tests ok, if feeling really froggy, you can jumper your switch in and use that to operate the mirror on you bench. Just wire as above. Let me know if you have any questions

need 12 volts and ground to both the motor and the solenoid. You would apply 12v to the

[jgurnari]

i only tried it with everything attached …going to try it again as you said later today. And video what i do.. really appreciate your help

[fintstone]

As long as you understand how these work, they are relatively simple...and a similar design were used on a lot of cars (Volvo, Saab, etc). The key (without dismantling one) is knowing what color wire goes where. Since you have opened one up, you already know.

Is this a new problem (did it work and then stop)? or was it like this when you got the car?

You can do it "with everything attached" as noted above. Probably best since there is little chance that you broke an intact one.

[jgurnari]

at one time both worked as they should pan/tilt. then long ago the pass side stopped tilting. just had doors painted now the drive side, like the pass side pans but doesn’t tilt. all tried while attached to the car. then i thought it was the toggle switch, then the connector to the toggle switch.. so i took them off the car and tried with the 12v. two mechanic friends tried and failed to get the forked arm to move toward the magnet ( referred to as the clutch?) to change direction to tilt.

[fintstone]

I think many people just don't understand how these work...but the schematic is pretty simple if you think about it. They wanted to only use one motor. That is probably due to cost and weight/size (as you can see the size of the motor). Two motors that size would have left elephant ears. There are tiny motors that do this now and mirrors likely have two small ones. In this case, they used a solenoid (magnet?) and a mechanical linkage to change directions.

This is how it should work. The L/R switch allows you to select which mirror gets power (right or left). It is between the joystick and the mirror so that it routes power to the right or left. The other side is essentially dead unless the heaters are on (the heaters are routed around the L/R switch).

So, lets say you selected the left (driver's) mirror with the L/R switch. That connects a wire (the output from the joystick) to one side of the motor. It is basically at 0 (not ground or 12v) until you move the joystick in any direction. As soon as the joystick is moved in any direct, the voltage through the L/R switch to the motor is either 12v or ground. There is another unswitched wire (does not go through the L/R switch) that comes out of the joystick. It is attached to the other motor lead. It will also sit at 0 (not ground or 12v) until the joystick is moved. Once the joystick is moved, it will always provide the opposite as wire one coming through the L/R switch from the joystick (so when the signal from the joystick though the L/R switch is 12v, the other one is ground and vice versa). So, if you select that mirror, any time you move the joystick in any direction, the motor should run.

The solenoid only receives power/moves when you move the joystick up or down. It should have an unswitched ground connected on one side (same ground as the heater element). This is likely where your problem is (missing/poor ground on one side of solenoid). You must hook up the ground wire when testing a mirror assembly for it to work.

On the other side of the solenoid (other side from the ground), you get 0 (not ground or 12v) except when you push the joystick up or down. Then you get 12v. When you release the joystick or move it front or back, it goes back to 0 and the solenoid goes back to the original position (you would probably read ground with a meter because you would be reading back though the coil of the solenoid to the unswitched ground)

The motor in each mirror is set up to move the glass in both planes. The control/joystick runs the motor in one direction or the other (since it is a simple DC motor, reversing the polarity reverses the direction). When you want to tilt the mirror, if you move the joystick up or down, the solenoid is turned on (if you listen closely, it normally would make a clicking noise. It moves the plunger on top (but does not move the mirror). The plunger just moves the mechanism so that the motor (which comes on in any direction you move the joystick moves tilts the mirror. Again, the motor runs in one direction or the other...depending on which way the joystick is moved (but tilts this time). When you move the joystick out of the tilt up or tilt down position, the solenoid loses the 12v, the plunger moves, and you are back to the horizontal plane.

You can test the diode you removed if you have an ohm meter.

[jgurnari]

ok! tjhis is what I got-

yellow / blue / white wires together (pos), separate from black wire (ground), all mirrors pan.

yellow / blue together separated from black / white together 1 mirror does nothing, 1 mirror pans and tilts, 1 mirror pans but tilts only one way, will not reverse.

The motor I have taken apart ...I can not get the clutch to respond but the motor works...tlits and pans.

[jgurnari]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm36A21bE5E

1) why would a mirror tilt ONLY one way?

2) Am I not troubleshooting the clutch from the motor out of the housing incorrectly...or did I do it right and its shot?!

3) Should I attempt to combine 2 mirrors, the one that doesnt tilt and the motor outside the housing, to make 1?

Thanks

Originally Posted by fintstone

I think many people just don't understand how these work...but the schematic is pretty simple if you think about it. They wanted to only use one motor. That is probably due to cost and weight/size (as you can see the size of the motor). Two motors that size would have left elephant ears. There are tiny motors that do this now and mirrors likely have two small ones. In this case, they used a solenoid (magnet?) and a mechanical linkage to change directions.

This is how it should work. The L/R switch allows you to select which mirror gets power (right or left). It is between the joystick and the mirror so that it routes power to the right or left. The other side is essentially dead unless the heaters are on (the heaters are routed around the L/R switch).

So, lets say you selected the left (driver's) mirror with the L/R switch. That connects a wire (the output from the joystick) to one side of the motor. It is basically at 0 (not ground or 12v) until you move the joystick in any direction. As soon as the joystick is moved in any direct, the voltage through the L/R switch to the motor is either 12v or ground. There is another unswitched wire (does not go through the L/R switch) that comes out of the joystick. It is attached to the other motor lead. It will also sit at 0 (not ground or 12v) until the joystick is moved. Once the joystick is moved, it will always provide the opposite as wire one coming through the L/R switch from the joystick (so when the signal from the joystick though the L/R switch is 12v, the other one is ground and vice versa). So, if you select that mirror, any time you move the joystick in any direction, the motor should run.

The solenoid only receives power/moves when you move the joystick up or down. It should have an unswitched ground connected on one side (same ground as the heater element). This is likely where your problem is (missing/poor ground on one side of solenoid). You must hook up the ground wire when testing a mirror assembly for it to work.

On the other side of the solenoid (other side from the ground), you get 0 (not ground or 12v) except when you push the joystick up or down. Then you get 12v. When you release the joystick or move it front or back, it goes back to 0 and the solenoid goes back to the original position (you would probably read ground with a meter because you would be reading back though the coil of the solenoid to the unswitched ground)

The motor in each mirror is set up to move the glass in both planes. The control/joystick runs the motor in one direction or the other (since it is a simple DC motor, reversing the polarity reverses the direction). When you want to tilt the mirror, if you move the joystick up or down, the solenoid is turned on (if you listen closely, it normally would make a clicking noise. It moves the plunger on top (but does not move the mirror). The plunger just moves the mechanism so that the motor (which comes on in any direction you move the joystick moves tilts the mirror. Again, the motor runs in one direction or the other...depending on which way the joystick is moved (but tilts this time). When you move the joystick out of the tilt up or tilt down position, the solenoid loses the 12v, the plunger moves, and you are back to the horizontal plane.

You can test the diode you removed if you have an ohm meter.

[fintstone]

I can't see your video. It says it is private.

No. Stop taking them apart. I think that you should test them like this:

Test a left mirror

Test pan
1. Connect 12v to black wire and ground to yellow and brown wires. It should pan one way.
2. Switch the two wires and connect 12v to yellow wire and connect ground to brown and black wires. It should pan the other way.

Test tilt.

1. Connect white and black wires to 12v and connect the yellow and brown wires to ground. It should tilt one way.
2. Connect white and yellow wires to 12v and connect black and brown wires to ground. It should tilt the other way.

Now test a right mirror.

Right Mirror

Test pan

1. Connect 12v to black wire and ground to blue and brown wires. It should pan one way.
2. Switch the two wires and put 12v on the blue wire and connect ground to the black and brown wires. It should pan the other way.

Test tilt.

1. Connect blue and white to 12v and connect the black and brown to ground. It should tilt one way.
2. Connect black and white to 12v and connect blue and brown to ground. It should tilt the other way.