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I did try propping open the barn door a bit to richen it up, the car wouldn't even fire so it was way too rich at that point. I didn't have a lot of time, so today I will pry it open a bit less and see if I can get it going. If that works and I can get a stable idle, then I would think I'd be able to do the same by closing the screw on the AFM all the way in, but that doesn't get it rich enough. I'm hoping that the PO didn't mess with the AFM spring, but I can't rule that out. |
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The crankase, thus the oil tank, are under vacuum. The breather is like leaving the oil cap off. Only a bigger leak.
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I'd lose the Wong chip regardless.
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Mark www.exotechpower.com 1981 Targa-messed with. 91 C2 supercharged track rat Radical Prosport-irritates the GT3 guys 40 years of rebuilding services |
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On the SW chip, I need something other than the stock chip due to the engine configuration - 964 cams, SSI headers (I know, too small...), 3.4 with different compression, enlarged throttle body. I did consider Sal's MAF setup but that is $$$. What other options are there? |
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Despite what's changed it's nothing radical. I have built very similar engines with just a change in injector size. The DME doesn't know the difference.
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Mark www.exotechpower.com 1981 Targa-messed with. 91 C2 supercharged track rat Radical Prosport-irritates the GT3 guys 40 years of rebuilding services |
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Perhaps I am being dense but this makes no sense to me.
As long as the tank is not plumbed to the intake, it is not an air leak. Based upon the way the plumbing has been described, there is not a connection between the oil tank and the intake, thus the air being drawn through the tank is only from the atmosphere and into the case (below the combustion chamber). Thus it is only a crankcase ventilation system and I cannot see how it is allowing false air into the combustion chamber. -Todd
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1989 911 Targa |
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No luck with the oil tank to intake hose :-( Same behavior as before. Tried propping open the barn door and no real change with that either.
The only way I can get it to stay running is to crack the throttle just a bit. Going to swap the known good ICV from my '85 and see how that goes. |
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Just a thought, and seen as you have tried most of what others have sugested, have you inspected the track in the AFM, ie; I wonder if the wiper is making proper contact with the start of the track ?
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Yes, I had already re-tracked the wiper per the methods that have been described on the forum.
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![]() In that case, are you absolutely sure you have no pipes disconnected from the inlet system, because if everything that has been mentioned has been checked then it doesent really make any sense.
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"But instinct is something which transcends Knowledge We have undoubtedly certain finer fibres that enable us to perceive truths when logical deduction or any other wilful effort of the brain is futile" Nikola Tesla |
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The reference in post #4 describes in detail how to check the ICV operation, why haven't you done that. Maybe you need to consider taking the vehicle to a good Porsche repair shop at this point!
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Dave |
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![]() Sometimes pulling teeth actually is easier....
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____________________________ If it's not leaking, it's out of oel... |
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I pulled the known good ICV from my '85 and put in into the misbehaving car, and wouldn't you know, it holds an idle fine while cold. It was idling very high, I had to screw the idle bypass way in, as it was backed way out as a band-aid for the bad ICV to get it to hold idle even when hot. The effect of the bad ICV looks to be an overly rich condition, not enough air getting past the throttle plate. I'm going to leave the working one in this car and go for a drive to be certain that's really the issue, but it sure looks like it. Thanks for all the help and suggestions! |
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Just to close this saga out - took the car out a few times this weekend and after adjusting the idle screw and backing out the AFM screw four and a half turns she starts right up and holds an idle fine. I had to screw the idle adjust in like seven or eight turns, as that was the only place air was getting past the throttle body with the bad ICV. Thanks for all the help, definitely should have checked the ICV much sooner in the process, but I had thought incorrectly that once the car was warmed up and it held idle fine that the problem could not be the ICV.
I did have one issue after the engine got good and hot, would not re-start. Let it sit for a minute or two and it did fire up fine, but I'm a bit worried there is still some issue that needs to be addressed. May be time for a wideband AFM to make sure all the adjustments are set properly. |
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