Replacing lug nuts

[josephvman]

I'm getting ready to replacing my beat up lugs nuts on my 16" Fuchs wheels with new Porsche OEM alloy lug nuts. Is there any issue doing this on the ground, replacing one-by-one and tightening to maybe 70ft/lbs, and then when they're all done, torquing them in the correct pattern to the correct 96ft/lbs? I've already got a soft socket.

[winders]

If you are worried about it, replace them in star pattern order torquing each one fully.

[DWeg1998]

I think you’ll be fine here and shouldn’t worry. Retorque the wheels after a couple days if it brings you peace of mind.

[mike sampsel]

Should be fine to torque to the 96, the other four already have the wheel secure.

Star pattern is best when replacing all the nuts on the wheel, you are doing one at a time so it would seem to be not needed, but is still best most of the time to do a star pattern tighten sequence.

[techweenie]

I'm not a fan of the soft sockets.

I prefer a standard 19mm / 3/4" socket. I use a piece of a plastic garbage bag -- or Ziplock -- putting it over the lug nut and sliding the socket over it. I've never scarred a fresh lug nut, while I've had the soft sockets leave marks.

Correct tightening pattern is tracing a star, as winders said.

[shoooo32]

Since we're on the subject of lug nuts, what's the go-to compound these days for anti-seize?

Brush on? Paste? Dry graphite spray? Raw doggin' it dry?

[winders]

This is what recommends for the aluminum lug nuts:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/00004330508.htm?pn=000-043-305-08-OEM&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkt6aBhDKARIsAAyeLJ0z9Y_H63cPXQiL2Zqj AJKlHo_hhstD4N5nvfDNS9u-ZGI9pz9Yu14aAtSdEALw_wcB

[josephvman]

Just to confirm, the torque is 130 N-m, and using anti-seize, correct? Does it make a difference if the anti-seize is copper or silver based?

[winders]

The torque is 130Nm. But, with anti-seize, you should decrease torque by 30% as the that 130 Nm is a dry number. This is where it gets weird. Porsche claims that that Optimoly TA does not affect torque. That has not been my experience.

Personally, I would use 91 Nm or 67 ft-lbs with an anti-seize.

[mike sampsel]

My wheels come off often enough to not worry about the aluminum and steel stud incompatibility. I’ve used anti-seize on exhaust bolts and oil cooler lines, but no where else.

There are experts on both camps of anti-seize on plugs, as an example Ed Mayo and John Walker have different positions. For an engine getting plugs which might sit with them for many years, anti-seize might make more sense.

Center lock nuts on GT3, GTS, Turbo seem to spec the lube recommended. The torque spec is 444’ lbs there. And for tracked cars I saw a recommendation of changing the nut every 6k miles, wow.

I’ve used anti-seize long ago on lugs, and never again for me.
Ditto on plugs, long ago. Not happy with either results. YRMV though.

[sean m]

Damn.....based on this post ,thought I'd look at replacing mine as well.
After seeing the cost........I think I'll look at painting my lugs as they're really an afterthought at this point.

[safe]

Originally Posted by josephvman

I'm getting ready to replacing my beat up lugs nuts on my 16" Fuchs wheels with new Porsche OEM alloy lug nuts. Is there any issue doing this on the ground, replacing one-by-one and tightening to maybe 70ft/lbs, and then when they're all done, torquing them in the correct pattern to the correct 96ft/lbs? I've already got a soft socket.

Why would there be an issue with that? Replace one by one in any order you want and torque to the full torque in one go.

[Marine Blue]

I recently replaced mine and something I’ve noticed is that they seem to need frequent torquing initially, at least in front. So make sure to check them again after you put some miles on them.

[dg567]

Originally Posted by sean m

Damn.....based on this post ,thought I'd look at replacing mine as well.
After seeing the cost........I think I'll look at painting my lugs as they're really an afterthought at this point.

I can help you out - the cost isn't so bad!

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1114969-black-aluminum-lug-nuts.html

[sean m]

Originally Posted by dg567

I can help you out - the cost isn't so bad!

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1114969-black-aluminum-lug-nuts.html

DG....thanks, great option.

[Superman]

For peace of mind, I use these. Steel. The threads go all the way through the nut.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/N0201121.htm?pn=N-020-112-1-M36

[josephvman]

I've got center lock nuts on my GT3, and the procedure to change those wheels is exhausting, with things you'd probably not consider, and I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything on my old car.

Originally Posted by safe

Why would there be an issue with that? Replace one by one in any order you want and torque to the full torque in one go.

[daepp]

Sorry for the hijack - just curious if the OEM lug nuts are ever replaced pro-actively?
AFAIK mine are fine, but my car is almost entirely stock and was manufactured 52+ years ago.
I had a few in my hands the other day and I was reminded how little mass they have - do they wear out?
Full disclosure - I have never had one get loose on me, so there's that...

[winglesss]

Originally Posted by Superman

For peace of mind, I use these. Steel. The threads go all the way through the nut.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/N0201121.htm?pn=N-020-112-1-M36

Those are designed for the steel spare tire / wheel and are specified in multiple Porsche technical bulletins as a usage requirement instead of the standard lug nuts in that application.

I picked up a set of five for my on board tool set for usage if-required.

[theiceman]

anti seize on the base of the nut ( the "ball" area ) where it contacts wheel only..

putting anti seize on the threads will put massive clamping force on those wheels .