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It has nothing to do with shift-timing, as posted earlier. Although it can't hurt. Rev's still fall plenty fast for shifting as fast as humanly possible. But the design is for emission control. |
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And be VERY careful about dropping anything into the intake ports! Murphy's law. Cover with tape, stuff rags, whatever it takes. Make damn sure everything you took off is accounted for. |
Is there a special way to undo the electrical connection at the WUR ?
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Just pry the metal clip back one side at a time.
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Is the AAR the same type of plug?
Were are the metal clip on the plug? |
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So I jumped into it today, started with removing the fuel lines from the runners to the fuel distributor
and removed runner #1 ,2 and the WUR. The clamps around the rubber tubes on the air box were positioned with the screws being accessible so I was able to loosen them. I'm working on one at a time and moving towards the back of the engine hoping to make more room so things are more accessible. Not in a rush so I'm going to take my time. |
I pulled mine pretty easily, just don't force the runners and bend the studs out of alignment. Makes putting on the one piece intake manifold a real pain. My two fronts were very very slightly splayed from wiggling the runner off, I had to tap gently back into place with a wood block.
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Good on you! It’s much easier to do it than to think about doing it and stress about it.
Take lots of photos so that when you put it back you have a reference for not only where things go but how; how the plugs are snaked around and how the hoses are fed. |
Making progress today, was able to get to the far bolt removed from runner#6 by removing runner#4 and taking off the AAR . Undid the bolt on the bracket in the back also.
I'm having trouble undoing the throttle rod from the bracket. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669831545.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669831545.jpg |
If your talking about the throttle linkage to the throttle body it snaps off. Best might be a skinny crows foot wrench that can get behind it to apply equal pry force around it.
Or you could make your own tool with a spare open end and grinder. Also, A big screw driver works too but it seems to distort things some, but is probably okay. You can snap it off in two places, up on the throttle body or down on the plate, IIRC. |
Should I replace the runner nuts? What should I use, they are the original I believe.
They are M8 according to the parts catalogue. Should I use M8 nylon locknuts? |
No nylon, nylon will not hold up under heat man. Order new ones if you want, but there's no need to. I did, just for fresh plating.
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Not needed in copper for the intake side but they are very pretty and the 12mm flat makes them easier to work with. https://belmetric.com/slit-lock-nut-copper-plated-steel-exhaust-din-14441/?sku=NC8X12 |
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Are there supposed to be two return springs? What part number for that long one? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669916347.jpg |
Yes there's another spring there
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Still can't get the throttle rod off, didn't think this would be the hardest thing.
Do I remove the fuel line that goes to the gas filter? |
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try separating the ball and sock below the one shown in your picture, worked for me |
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