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-   -   Removing CIS (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1129091-removing-cis.html)

island911 11-26-2022 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coastr (Post 11853043)
The decel valve is there for emissions- cis = constant fuel - on decel too much fuel and can harm cat converter. So decel valve slows down engine deceleration by letting in air after throttle snaps shut. This results in a more controlled af ratio on decel. Plugging it allows engine to slow quicker, and also introduces a few pops and bangs to the exhaust note. No other effect, although maybe it does harm the cat or spike nox momentarily. Obv if you have a cat bypass pipe in a non emissions location it’s unnecessary.

As noted when they fail they will increase idle up to 2000 rpm by letting in extra air around the throttle.

This ^

It has nothing to do with shift-timing, as posted earlier. Although it can't hurt. Rev's still fall plenty fast for shifting as fast as humanly possible. But the design is for emission control.

PeteKz 11-27-2022 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikedsilva (Post 11835319)
I'm with this guy

Ditto. It ain't easy. Consider one change when you reinstall it--swap the DIN 13mm nuts for Japanese standard 12mm flared nuts. The slightly smaller nut head makes it just a bit easier to get on and off with a 12mm socket.

And be VERY careful about dropping anything into the intake ports! Murphy's law. Cover with tape, stuff rags, whatever it takes. Make damn sure everything you took off is accounted for.

joe912/62 11-28-2022 08:42 AM

Is there a special way to undo the electrical connection at the WUR ?

David Inc. 11-28-2022 08:46 AM

Just pry the metal clip back one side at a time.

joe912/62 11-28-2022 09:26 AM

Is the AAR the same type of plug?
Were are the metal clip on the plug?

David Inc. 11-28-2022 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe912/62 (Post 11858778)
Is the AAR the same type of plug?
Were are the metal clip on the plug?

Yes. It's like a square metal circlip, just give the plug a good look.

mike sampsel 11-29-2022 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Inc. (Post 11858730)
Just pry the metal clip back one side at a time.

Yes, well just pull the plugs off, no need to pry the clip back. The clip can fly off this way. Tony taught me in another thread. Unless the later ones are different. All my plugs can be gently pulled off without prying away those clips.

joe912/62 11-29-2022 01:36 PM

So I jumped into it today, started with removing the fuel lines from the runners to the fuel distributor
and removed runner #1 ,2 and the WUR. The clamps around the rubber tubes on the air box were positioned with the screws being accessible so I was able to loosen them. I'm working on one at a time and moving towards the back of the engine hoping to make more room so things are more accessible. Not in a rush so I'm going to take my time.

mspell 11-29-2022 03:03 PM

I pulled mine pretty easily, just don't force the runners and bend the studs out of alignment. Makes putting on the one piece intake manifold a real pain. My two fronts were very very slightly splayed from wiggling the runner off, I had to tap gently back into place with a wood block.

Showdown 11-29-2022 04:08 PM

Good on you! It’s much easier to do it than to think about doing it and stress about it.

Take lots of photos so that when you put it back you have a reference for not only where things go but how; how the plugs are snaked around and how the hoses are fed.

joe912/62 11-30-2022 09:07 AM

Making progress today, was able to get to the far bolt removed from runner#6 by removing runner#4 and taking off the AAR . Undid the bolt on the bracket in the back also.
I'm having trouble undoing the throttle rod from the bracket.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669831545.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669831545.jpg

mike sampsel 12-01-2022 01:50 AM

If your talking about the throttle linkage to the throttle body it snaps off. Best might be a skinny crows foot wrench that can get behind it to apply equal pry force around it.

Or you could make your own tool with a spare open end and grinder. Also, A big screw driver works too but it seems to distort things some, but is probably okay. You can snap it off in two places, up on the throttle body or down on the plate, IIRC.

joe912/62 12-01-2022 06:10 AM

Should I replace the runner nuts? What should I use, they are the original I believe.
They are M8 according to the parts catalogue. Should I use M8 nylon locknuts?

ADDvanced 12-01-2022 06:35 AM

No nylon, nylon will not hold up under heat man. Order new ones if you want, but there's no need to. I did, just for fresh plating.

David Inc. 12-01-2022 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe912/62 (Post 11861433)
Should I replace the runner nuts? What should I use, they are the original I believe.
They are M8 according to the parts catalogue. Should I use M8 nylon locknuts?

Stock it's a conical type lock nut in yellow zinc. I ended up using M8 copper plated nuts with a split type lock nut, they had a 12mm flat. Belmetric is a good source for bulk nuts in the right coating. I used these nuts for both the intake and exhaust studs.

Not needed in copper for the intake side but they are very pretty and the 12mm flat makes them easier to work with.

https://belmetric.com/slit-lock-nut-copper-plated-steel-exhaust-din-14441/?sku=NC8X12

mike sampsel 12-01-2022 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe912/62 (Post 11861433)
Should I replace the runner nuts? What should I use, they are the original I believe.
They are M8 according to the parts catalogue. Should I use M8 nylon locknuts?

Use the old nuts, no need to replace them unless the head is mangled and the 12 mm size (which is my OEM size) is better from a room to maneuver perspective. Replace the gaskets between the runner and the head though,

tsuter 12-01-2022 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike sampsel (Post 11839681)
Here is a picture of the nuts (nut) to remove off the front of the air-box. Looks like after the heater fan bracket is removed you might reach it without a drop. Oh and this picture shows that pesky spring which also hooks on number 2 runner. Don’t lose it somewhere, mine lodged in my dilapidated engine pad, took me a long time to find it.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667649269.jpg

My return spring is on the side of the throttle body. It seems to provide plenty of tension. I can't remember ever having a long "pesky" one on the linkage arm going back to runner #2 but for sure I have the holes to put one there.
Are there supposed to be two return springs? What part number for that long one?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669916347.jpg

joe912/62 12-01-2022 08:57 AM

Yes there's another spring there

joe912/62 12-01-2022 08:59 AM

Still can't get the throttle rod off, didn't think this would be the hardest thing.
Do I remove the fuel line that goes to the gas filter?

wgirardot 12-01-2022 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe912/62 (Post 11861594)
Still can't get the throttle rod off, didn't think this would be the hardest thing.
Do I remove the fuel line that goes to the gas filter?



try separating the ball and sock below the one shown in your picture, worked for me


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