Triangle of death done
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1671659291.JPG

You might want to coat the oil light sender in JB weld

What type of JB weld, around the brown area?

Right, circle to cover around the plastic area which can crack and leak. I use the black-and-white-two-tube stuff, (the original) good to 500 degrees I think their strongest. You might need another washer if you remove your sender to coat it good.

I wrapped blue tape around the hex portion and then filled it in with JB Weld. Peeled the tape off later and it looked really nice after:<)

Where does the other end of the vacuum hose, that goes down into the rear crossmember (in the pictures above) go? I removed a bunch of stuff, including CIS, and that hose was disconnected. I pulled it out of the hole in the crossmember to find it just dead-ends, and is attached to nothing.

Thanks in advance.

One of the oil tank breather lines goes from the crankcase breather plate to the oil tank. The another one goes to the rubber intake boot.

https://i.imgur.com/x0mrn7Z.jpg

https://bit.ly/3FVeQlm

Thomas

Here's my CIS ready to go in. I left runners 1 and 4 for easier access to some bolts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672155322.JPG

This one. Mine was also cable tied. When i removed the tie and pulled it just came out of the crossmember. I assumed it was an old hack, until i saw it here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672155928.jpg

I can have a look on under my car to see if I can see were it terminates

If yours is like mine, it terminates about 4" into that crossmember, to nothing. Question is, where does the other end of the hose go. Cruise control?

Can I change the upper valve gasket without draining the oil?
Maybe easier without the CIS

If memory serves, that’s exactly what it is, the atmosphere air end to the cruise control.

Yes, all of the oil drains to the bottom of the engine, and you might even want to adjust the intake valves while you're at it.

Another “while you have it out”. My engine is back in the car after being on the engine stand all of 2021. Last weekend I decided I needed to finally verify my CSV was in fact spraying fuel out of it.
In the year the motor was on the stand I removed it to put in new O rings but never tested for spray function. Anyway doing it with the CIS back in the car is not fun. Took me an hour and a half to remove it and probably 4 hours to reinstall using lights and mirrors. With the CIS on the bench it would take only a few minutes. I would never do it in situ again. Also check to see that you have the correct mounting flange. There are threads with pictures that show the difference between flanges.

I think I mentioned this awhile back, but I'll say it again since you're almost done. Consider removing the idle air valve and decel valve and associated plumbing. Without that stuff in the way, you can reach the parts in the TOD much more easily. When I reinstalled my rebuilt engine a year ago, I forgot to fully tighten the oil pressure switch. Of course, I had a seep of oil down the top of the engine, etc. I was able to easily put a mirror back there, see that it was coming from the switch, and then remove it, check it, reinstall it, and tighten it, WITHOUT futzing with the CIS. Now, my 1973.5 car has a hand throttle, so I can just set that for a few minutes to let the engine warm up. Otherwise, you have to keep your foot on the gas to hold the RPM up for a minute or two, or start driving it immediately. IMO, it's worth the tradeoff.

Everything is back in now, had a fuel leak from the cold start valve but all tighten up now and no leaks.

So I tried to start the car, I haven't received the fuel pressure tester I ordered yet and was a bit inpatient. I also put in new plugs wires cap and rotor. I think I installed the plug wires in the right position on the cap. When I start the car the car rpm surges and back fires and shuts down.
I know I should check the fuel pressure before but could my wires be in the wrong position?
Is there any adjustments to the throttle position micro switch which needs to be adjusted?

You can check your wires via firing order, rotating CCW from number 1 wire. Once the order is verified, number one is at the notch on the dizzy. Or around 3 o’clock.

Sometimes sputter and BF can occur until the lines get all primed.

After wires verified, I’ve primed by (air cleaner off) lift the CIS plunger slightly with key on, as soon as you hear fuel squirting in the injectors let go of plate plunger.

Wetting down the cylinders with gas not great. If your car has sat a long time you might crank a while to get oil pressure. You should pull the CDS plug to do this. Although I’ve done it with the fuel pump relay out.