Replacing rear outer cv boot.

Decolliber · 06-07-2003, 10:18 AM

Can I just replace a torn outer rear cv boot on an '88 Carrera? Reason I ask is that Wayne's 101 book says (p.115) that outer cv joint is integrated into the stub axle (*). Does this mean that cv joint and axle cannot be separated for insertion of new boot on axle? If so, does this mean I have to replace whole axle assembly (for $209)? ... then can I just replace right side axle, or should I do both?
If I _can_ just replace the boot, I assume I only then need to order the boot, the clamp and grease, right? The Pelican catalogue says to get a new gasket too, but from the parts diagrams I have looked at, it appears that the '88 Carreras do not have a gasket there (correct?)

* in the text on the same page he says it is the inner cv joint that is integrated part of stub axle, but since Bentley (420-22) says outer, I assume thats the one

cowtown · 05:14 PM

No gasket. On my '88 I took off the inboard CV and boot, then slid the outboard boot all the way across the axle toward the inboard side, then off. Repacking the outboard CV is challenging but doable this way.

Edit: PS you've got to have a way of dealing with the super-high-torque nut on that stub if you're going to remove the axle. Either a long breaker bar and heavy-duty ratchet, or air impact. I broke a couple Craftsman extensions with my breaker bar doing this. Good luck!

Decolliber · 06-07-2003, 06:21 PM

I was wondering about that stub axle nut. Bentley says it is torqued to 339 ft lbs. I will have to buy a 32mm socket and a new torque wrench, as the one I have goes only to 150lbs. Bentley and Porsche Parts and Tech Reference Catalogue says this axle nut is "self locking." Don't self-locking nuts have to be replaced when removed? When I removed a self-locking nut on a rear control arm of my Audi I had to buy a new one as the nut had a built in washer that bends as it is tightened (thats the self locking part of it).
After reading many of the previous posts about replacing rear boots I have almost decided to just order the new axle assembly from Pelican for $209. Is there anything else I need to order to replace a rear axle? New stub axle nut and washer?

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

You don't need a torque wrench for the axle nuts. Just apply weight to the wrench the appropriate distance (stand on it X feet from the nut).
Example: If it calls for 300 ft lbs and you weigh 200, stand on the wrench 1.5 feet from the nut (1.5ft x 200lb = 300ftlbs). Have a helper keep the socket pushed on the nut by pushing on the sock with his/her foot.
-Chris

jthwan22 · 06-08-2003, 08:33 PM

I use a one inch braker bar and long hollow steel tube to remove it. You will just kill the torque wrench by steping on it. Having a helper to step on the brakes will help to stop the car from moving

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

It definitely takes a 3/4" drive tool. Put the car in gear with the e-Brake on. Tightening it is a matter of simple math, as Chris pointed out. Check the torque after a few weeks of driving.

If the CV joint(s) are good, it seems a shame to replace just for a torn boot. Yes, it's a messy job, but get a bunch of newspapers, nitrile goves, music on and solvent in a bucket. An hour of time and you have freshly relubed CV's, ready for many more years of service. While you are messy, do both axles and swap the sides to even out wear. That's what I did.

RickC · 06-09-2003, 09:41 AM

Just replaced both shafts on my 87. On advice from this BBoard I got a 3/4 ratchet set from Harbor Freight for about $40. With a long pipe it made the stub nut axle easy.

To be safe (also advice from this BB), I raised the car, took off the wheel to get the center cap off (to get at the stub nut), then put the wheel back on and lowered it so that the car was on the ground when the real torque was applied. An extra 10 minutes, but safe & easy.

I had to undo the shocks to get the shaft/CV/axle out.