![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 46
|
Reverse Light Switch - A Better Way
I figured I would share something I figured out this past week to have a better setup for the wiring of my reverse light switch on the G50.
As I can tell, this is just a terrible area prone to issues and a lackluster design for the strength of the wiring. My car came to me with two snapped wires, a jacked up reverse light switch, and after ordering my 3rd switch I finally got the right part in my hands that fits the trans. Let's say I just never want to have to touch this situation again, actually SOLVE the problem rather than get it back to the way it was. Bullet connectors suck, finding the right ones that fit sucks, knowing what to search without asking a bunch of questions on the forum and getting 5 different answers sucks. The 'right ones' got soldered on, and pushing them into the switch had me snapping the wires again. RAD. There has to be a better way! Why isnt this connection made at a right angle? That's what makes sense of a very stupid problem. Something that my ham fisted mechanical skills can accomplish by doing one time rather than doing everything twice. A solution that can be easy and more durable than what was given to us by these interesting and beautiful cars. Here's what I've got for you: Reverse light switch requires 5mm bullet connectors (2) and it does not matter where each wire is installed, the wires form an electrical loop and once the shaft makes contact with the inner part of the switch (when installed) , the tails illuminate (rumor, I've not seen it for myself yet) A quick search on amazon found me these right angle gold connectors that I can attach the wires to, have a good connection, and have a setup that is done in a better way. Yeah Racing is the company, RC car parts apparently (I don't care what its for as long as it works right) with a part number #WPT-0121 for a set that can swap between 4mm and 5mm bullet type connections. Cost is sub $10 delivered ![]() ![]() ![]() As you can see wires will remain independent, fit into the switch as they should with the 5mm connector, and the red and black donut gaskets that will fit into the bottom of the black housing once the wires are soldered in will make it far more weather proof than the factory setup even with the boot. Connectors aren't pushed all the way in with these pics, just testing to make sure they WILL press in before getting under the car again. Will update once completed! Hopefully this helps ONE person because this was the type of solution I was looking for and simply not finding Last edited by DetailDivision; 05-20-2023 at 10:23 AM.. |
||
![]() |
|
911timesThree
|
Obsessed with Pcar wiring and always like better solutions.
__________________
1987 911ST 3.4L G50 LS 20/21 Granite Green Hot Rod 1988 911 3.4L G50 LS 20/21 Guards Red Hot Rod 2020 F87 M2 Comp 6Speed Carbahn 562/567 Gone: 1991 965 Black/Black Turbo Gone: 2002 E46 M3 6Spd CSL style build |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: The Swamp and NC
Posts: 450
|
Nice..
__________________
I'm not picking my nose..I'm porting my upper intake manifold. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: The Swamp and NC
Posts: 450
|
__________________
I'm not picking my nose..I'm porting my upper intake manifold. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Rate This Thread | |
|