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Dash panel rusted out mounting hole
A question for the sheet metal/rust gurus:
Is there a non-welding way to repair this rusty driver-side dash panel hole? It is the only one that looks like this, the other ones are all in good shape, and I'm wondering if I can do a decent job with a non-welding kit, knowing that the other mount points are solid. ![]() |
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Uncertifiable!!!
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Presume this is on your ‘71. I got the same year. Ugh! Man-oh-man……that’s the tip of the iceberg. Ask me how I know.
Johan
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It goes way deeper than that. And what remains is far thinner than the original metal.
You'll need to cut it all out and weld in new metal. No easy way around it. |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gulf Coast FL
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If you can't or won't weld, just follow the same steps (cut out bad, fab piece to fit) and pop rivet in a patch.
Can always come back to it later. |
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Thanks for the advice. I can do the weld, just not my strong suit. Every job is a learning opportunity!
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And one final question - I haven't put a caliper on it yet. Does anyone know what gauge that sheetmetal is? Not sure it's the same as the other panels
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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20ga is easy to work with and will hold up fine.
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Not breaking any land speed records but I trimmed out the rusty patch and hand-fitted a 20 ga patch. I'll probably blast it first, then weld it in. Also uncovered a smaller 8mm square rust hole in the A-pillar joint which I guess I'll fill with weld material
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PCA Member since 1988
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When you finish welding, drill a couple 1/4" hoes at the low points along the windshield pinch weld, to let water drain out. it will drain down into the frunk area, but should not be so much as to cause any problems there. You must prevent it from pooling under the dash panel, as you discovered the hard way.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Thanks PeteKz - super helpful. Any thoughts on filling in the the smaller rust hole with weld material? Just seems like patching would be too difficult.
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PCA Member since 1988
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It appears that the small hole next to the pinch weld is about where you want to have a drain hole anyway. I'd clean it out, treat it with rust remover, then coat it with something black. Between the dash pad and the windshield gasket covering that area, you probably won't even see it.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Ah . . . I see what you mean. I'm going to epoxy primer the entire interior, so if I clean out that hole (maybe when I blast) hit it with Afterblast, and epoxy prime it (along with drilling 1 or 2 others as you suggest) it sounds like it should work pretty well
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Tags |
1971 , 911 , longhood , targa |