Engine removal: remove bumper?

[Cevan]

I’m dropping the engine/trans from my ‘86 coupe. Using floor jacks to raise the car and have a transmission jack to lower the engine. Is removing the rear bumper worth it in terms of making the engine removal easier?

I found this post on bumper removal: https://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-911-1984-1989/rear-bumper-removal-and-installation.html

[lsf911]

Well, easier is relative. It is more effort to remove the bumper, but, with the bumper off, you will not have to jack the car up as high to remove the engine and it will be easier to clear other things (like the muffler).

It is not necessary though.

[Cevan]

I should mention I have the muffler and cat removed as well as the airbox and AFM throttlebody unit.

[lsf911]

Well, I am no expert, only removed 2 engines so far, but I wouldn't bother removing the rear bumper. With those items already removed from the engine it will not buy you much if anything.

[tsuter]

When using jack stands to drop your engine, removing the bumper assembly gets you 5-6 extra inches. But do it as an assembly. Like a one piece IROC. See thread. You know you want to clean it up anyway....

Rear bumper removal

and for tons of pics.... see page three of my current engine drop for maintenance thread.
Friday Porn--- Another 78 911SC Targa

You can thank me later.......for not messing with those bellows on the car.

[fanaudical]

I have removed the bumper on my 911 when I had issues getting enough rear elevation to drop the motor. Otherwise, if you can lift the car enough, there is no real need or advantage in bumper removal.

[MichaelSJackson]

Just get the engine down and then see if you need to lift the rear more or take off the bumper.

Do you have jack stands with enough height and then does your jack (transmission in your case) have enough travel? If you can get the rear end high enough, you can roll/slide the motor out once it is on the ground.

I use 6 ton jack stands in the rear. The front tires are on wood blocks each made of 4 2x12x24. And my jack is an old high lift jack (36") you used to see in service stations (you old enough to have childhood memories of service stations?). They are NLA. Probably not safe. I act scared as h**l when using it at extreme extensions. That transmission jack is a much better tool.

Also, built a square dolly that fits between the SSIs, out of 2x4s and carpet remnants. Lower the engine so the SSIs rest on 2 4x8s on their edge. Roll out my jack and roll the dolly in its place. Then remove the 4x8s from each side and the dolly with its cargo just fits under the bumper.

Works for the engine alone or engine and tranny together.

Michael J

[Cevan]

Thanks everyone. Decided to try and remove the bumper in one piece. Figured any additional clearance will help. Only took about 45 minutes. Lucky for me fasteners came off easily.

[fallingat120mph]

86' 3.2 Coupe here...

I am getting ready to remove the engine and will be removing the bumper. I am measuring everything at this point and wanted some clarification -

Seems like 34-35 inches is the magic number for getting the engine out OR 24 inches at the torsion bars. These are measurements I am pretty sure with the bumper still on?

Bumper is coming off, refurbishing, etc...

Thanks!
Erik

[kevbo]

yall do yourselves a favor and get a mid-rise lift! I use it at least weekly between my 86 targa and other family cars!

[targa80]

I only remove the lower valance on my 1980. Granted, the rear end must be raised pretty high to be able to pull the engine out. I use a “U” shaped Dolly to have the engine sit on once lowered. I then remove the jack and use it to raise the body higher up on the jack stands to get the right amount of clearance without the engine weight.



I used a harbor freight dolly and modified it into a beefed up “U” shaped Dolly back in 1998. I have used it about 5 times over the past 25 years.

[montauk]

I just dropped the engine/tranny on my 1980 SC for the first time about a week ago. I used a new Quickjack and removed the rear bumper. The bumper removal is easy and quick. I don't think the engine would slide out with the bumper still in place.

I used a cheap harbor freight tranny jack to support the engine and transmission.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by montauk

I just dropped the engine/tranny on my 1980 SC for the first time about a week ago. I used a new Quickjack and removed the rear bumper. The bumper removal is easy and quick. I don't think the engine would slide out with the bumper still in place.

I used a cheap harbor freight tranny jack to support the engine and transmission.

You're right, it won't go with the QJ. Even with the bumper off I have to pull the intake to throttle-body boot to get it to clear the frame, but I was using an ATV jack with 2x4s that raises the minimum height up a bit.

[montauk]

Originally Posted by David Inc.

You're right, it won't go with the QJ. Even with the bumper off I have to pull the intake to throttle-body boot to get it to clear the frame, but I was using an ATV jack with 2x4s that raises the minimum height up a bit.

Here's the tranny jack I used
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html?_br_psugg_q=transmission+jack

The castors and wheels aren't very good. It's very difficult to maneuver it around even on a smooth concrete floor.

[yelcab1]

It's interesting and amusing how many ways people have figured out how to remove an air cooled 911 engine. I have a 4 post lift on which I removed 996/997 engines. For aircooled engines, I do it in the driveway, 2 jacks, 2 jackstands, and a rolling platform.

[almostordinary]

Lots of unique solutions here!

dI went with bumper off, quickjack setup and 1k table lift from harbor freight.



Took it out in 45min on my last go round after getting the bumper off.

-Ian

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

Lots of unique solutions here!

dI went with bumper off, quickjack setup and 1k table lift from harbor freight.



Took it out in 45min on my last go round after getting the bumper off.

-Ian

I really like this approach personally.

I like the 1k table vs. other options.

I have been looking at ATV/Moto lifts but this HF 1k table lift seems more stable...I could be wrong. Seems it goes high enough also...but again, seeking advice/experience.

[pmax]

HF dolly and a piece of plywood with the low profile jack sliding under nicely for installation and removal.

After removing the rear valance, clearance needed for a CIS engine is about 30".

[almostordinary]

The table jack was essential. The 500lb table jack is fine, but the 1k table jack has thicker metal which allowed me to drill holes to screw in HD eyelet bolts which I attached ratchet straps to for extra safety.

I also used this amazon moto jack for the transmission which was great for a solo clutch job.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RPGSZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



The moto jack was also a big help when I put the motor in solo as well.... let me get the right angle for the transmission.

-Ian

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

The table jack was essential. The 500lb table jack is fine, but the 1k table jack has thicker metal which allowed me to drill holes to screw in HD eyelet bolts which I attached ratchet straps to for extra safety.

I also used this amazon moto jack for the transmission which was great for a solo clutch job.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RPGSZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



The moto jack was also a big help when I put the motor in solo as well.... let me get the right angle for the transmission.

-Ian

Be doing it solo myself...great info and photo!