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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 105
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911SC front struts
Greetings and salutations to all.
83 911SC. Bilstein struts in front and they're a bit spongey so it was time for new ones. Purchased Bilstein replacement strut cartridge's from our host. I went to install them and I cannot, for love or money, rotate the top of the existing strut out past the fender lip into open air. Since I can't make that happen I obviously cannot change the cartridge. The only modifications are turbo tie rods, a bump steer kit and a slightly lowered front end. Everything else is bone stock. So it would appear in order to accomplish this task I'll need to unbolt the tie rod which means more than likely a new alignment. Not the end of the world for sure but if I can avoid that extra step and cash outlay I would naturally prefer to. Has anyone run into this issue ? If yes, how did you resolve it ? thanks DW |
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If you disconnect the brake line clip that will allow for some additional clearance for the strut to clear the fender lip. Are you sure you're fully compressing the insert, takes a fair amount of effort.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 Last edited by walt; 04-13-2024 at 05:45 PM.. |
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PCA Member since 1988
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What Walt said. The Bilsteins have gas pressure keeping them extended. You have to push down on the top hard to compress it. Then you can swing it out under the fender.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Thank you for the replies. I was able to compress the struts, it's the swinging it out part that's the issue. Not enough outward motion/rotation.
From what I'm witnessing the tie rod is going to have to be unbolted in order to allow enough outbound motion of the strut to get it outside the fender lip. Dennis |
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I can't remember how I last did that job - but if you slacken the tosion bar off you should get more room. I don't recall it being that difficult.
Alan Can't you free them at the base then pull them clear?
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) Last edited by Alan L; 04-14-2024 at 02:04 AM.. |
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You need to detach the tie rod arm. That won't screw your suspension settings - as long as you leave the tie rod adjustment alone.
But you have already screwed your suspension settings by freeing the strut at the top of the tower - camber/castor. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Thank you Alan, that makes sense and I can of figured it would go that way.
I'm curious what's different about my suspension that won't allow the top of the strut tower to rotate out past the fender lip. Must be the tie rod ? Not a big thing, thanks again - Dennis |
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Should be able to do it, the limitation would be the brake hoses, not the tie rod. I did this last year with my '82. The whole front end needs to be up so the steering is totally free to move though.
Edit: You really don't want to try to undo the tie rods, they're a god damned nightmare. I replaced my strut assemblies and the tie rod outers are still attached. The threads on my tie rod puller stripped instead of the tie rods coming out! Last edited by David Inc.; 04-15-2024 at 06:08 AM.. |
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I am not sure how you can xtract the top of the strut without freeing the tie rod end. I could be wrong. Def need to free the brake hose. Maybe it will help to turn the steering max to extend the tie rod arm. Dunno.
Generally I would have been removing the strut completely so let the tie rod off anyway. Last job was to replace the bush inserts, so def had the strut right out. It is prob good form to ping the tie rod ends free from time to time anyway. I put anti seize on them when reinstalling. Not sure if it helps or not - prob gets squeezes out. If you are stripping tools to free them then it is the wrong approach. Yes they can be tricky but there are other ways. The other possibility would be to press/lever the hub downward - you would be working against the torsion bar. Good luck Alan Edit - I did put one of my cars up on the hoist last night top look at the proposition. I couldn't see how to do it without releasing the tie rod. But then it was the 930 which has wider flares. Maybe it is just possible on the SC. Still looks marginal I would have thought. But pressing down on the hub may be the best option.
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) Last edited by Alan L; 04-15-2024 at 11:40 AM.. |
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I've read that before, that it's an option for the SC but not the turbo. It's a close thing to be sure, and woe to those who don't tape up the strut and fenders!
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