1st Engine drop: dolly question

Ducktail · 06-23-2003, 06:16 PM

Okay, everything (that I can see) is disconnected. All the tranny bolts/nuts are off (except the starter one, which I can't see and can barely touch, so I'll get it when the tilting begins).

Problem is, I have to use my only jack for the drop and if it's under the engine, then I won't have it to lift the car higher if it needs it. I was going to make a low-profile dolly that fits all the seams and knobs of the bottom of the engine, and then I caught myself. Am I going where no man has gone before (lately), like way, waaaay overboard? The rear bumper is 1/2" shy of what they say you need in the Pelican Engine Drop tech article. Will a furniture dolly from the Harbor Freight work well enough? More importantly, is it okay to rest the engine on the heat exchangers for a while?

M.

350HP930 · 06-23-2003, 06:22 PM

A modified tranny jack with an adapter to support the engine/tranny at the balance point would be the best way to go.

Groesbeck Hurricane · 06-23-2003, 06:36 PM

The attachment Wayne sells on this site is the best way to go.

A furniture dolly from Harbour Freight that can hold 650 pounds would work. I had some wheels and used some 4x4s and 2x4s to create my dolly. If you have not dropped the motor yet, lower your jack, place a soft 4x4 under the jack point, lift the car up, and put the wheels on supports and put jackstands at the torsion bar covers. Let down your jack and remove the 4x4. You should be able to reach your jack point with a 2x4 or rolled up newspaper between your jack and the motor. When the motor is supported follow the removal instructions. It is easier than one would think.

I would caution you that it is easier to remove the transmission and motor together and remate them outside the car. I would further suggest you invest in Wayes 101 Projects and Motor Re-Build book. They are full of great information. Best of luck!

marcesq · marcesq's Garage

Whether you can rest the engine on the heat exchangers depends on thier condition and make up. I have dropped engines on SSIs, and stock H/Es that were in excellant condition, ie no rust and all of the welds were in place with out any problems.

On one occasion I used a furniture dolly from Home depo and it worked fine. Made it easy to move around and load into the back of a pu truck.

1fastredsc · 06-23-2003, 07:38 PM

I had two jacks to get the motor out, one to rest the motor on and the other to further lift the car if needed. My heatexchagers although aren't bad are far from good condition and they took the weight of the motor with no problem when i rested it on a pallet. GL, the balance of the motor and tranny is much easier than you'd think.

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

Here is mine:

Details, and lots of good info here:

Engine drop question

Tom

Zeke · 06-23-2003, 09:01 PM

But on the other hand, if you want to remove the exhaust system at some point, if will be impossible with the engine sitting on them. I'm not being intentionally sarcastic here (for once) What is the purpose of the engine drop? Are you gonna need the exhaust off to accomplish your task?

206aa · 06-23-2003, 10:01 PM

I would take the rear apron off . . if it is as easy as it was on my 68. I was a little short on clearance and just removed the apron. I made a U shaped dolley from 2x4's, wood screws and casters I bought from Home Depot. Total cost of the dolley was about $12. I ended up using my floor jack instead of the motorcycle jack I bought as it was easier to manuever. Engine and trans dropped with ease., I did remove the muffler but left the rest of the exhaust was left on. Jack stands were on the torsion bars raised all the way up and were placed on 2x10's. I think the dolley is worth it if the motor is going to be out for any length of time, very sturdy and easy to move around in the garage.

--Alan

206AA
1968 911 2.4T

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

I usually drop it down, and then place it on two 4x4 pieces of wood, then pull the jack out. At this point, you can jack up one side of the engine, and then slide the dolly underneath. I know this is strange to someone who hasn't done it, but it's really not that bad. After the first time, it's like tying your shoelaces. I recently dropped the 911 engine out of my 914 in about an hour and fifteen minutes, and I wasn't even rushing.

You can rest the engine on the heat exchangers, however, I don't like to store the engine like that. I like to place it on blocks that are supported by the case.

-Wayne

Langers · 06-24-2003, 01:31 AM

Just out of interest, what is the fastest engine drop you have heard of? My old mechanic got it down to 16 minutes (at a race track with no help or shop lift)

Ducktail · 06-24-2003, 07:04 AM

Thanks gang. All advice duly noted. I've got an engine collar and stand waiting. Pulling a few parts off the 2.7 and putting them on the new-to-me 3.0.

Ever been to a "Bug-In?" Those Volkswagen meets? One contest is to drive up, jump out, pull your tools out of the car, drop the engine, run it around a pylon, put it back in, get in and drive across a finish line. I remember watching it done in 14 minutes. The record must be less than that. I know it's just a 4, but still, that's snappy work.

M.

targa80 · targa80's Garage

This is what I built and use.