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Transporting a 3.2 engine to new home...question.
Have a spare engine and am getting ready to move using my uhaul rental.
What is the best way guys have found to move it from garage to rental truck to my new garage? Weight wise is it about 500lbs with trans? Have some ideas but the forums always surprise me... Thanks for any insight and advice ![]() Erik
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1986 911 Coupe 1986 911 Targa |
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1000lb harbor freight lift table.
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I used a 2" wide, 20'+ long tow strap wrapped around a few times hooked up to an engine hoist with the arm set pretty long. Sat on its heat exchangers on a pallet, and tied to the pallet with whatever rope I had so it wouldn't shift around.
Can also lift it by hand, 4 strong people or 3 really strong. Hard to get a grip on it without bending the tin. Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk |
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I recently did this with a blown engine. I lifted it off an engine stand using an engine hoist. one side wrapped around the engine mount, other side wrapped through the arms that attached the engine to the engine stand.
I don't think I would do this with a nice clean running engine though... but it did work. Then we put it in the back of a pickup resting on an old tire on top of the heat exchangers. ![]() |
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Thank you so far everyone...
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1986 911 Coupe 1986 911 Targa |
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First suggestion: Separate the engine and tranny. Assembled, it not only weighs more, but also is twice as long and awkwardly shaped and unbalanced. Put the engine on a dolly. The transmission you can move by lifting and carrying, or on a separate dolly.
I made a wood dolly years ago so I could move a spare engine around my shop. Very similar to the dollies movers use for large/heavy items. I made it because I had some casters and 2x4's laying around, otherwise I would have bought one from the U-Haul store. When I moved from east to west, I rolled it up into the trailer and strapped the engine on the dolly into one corner. Worked fine.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Quote:
Man, honestly hadn't thought about splitting the two. Seems the most obvious thing...so used to keeping together. That in itself would make things a bit easier. Thank you!
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Quote:
Last edited by pmax; 08-28-2024 at 04:17 PM.. |
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Second splitting the tranny from the engine due to the bulk.
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and ease it down using the appropriate straps, ropes, winch etc Last edited by pmax; 08-28-2024 at 04:24 PM.. |
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Yeah, I will most likely split...funny how that seems so obvious and yet I totally overlooked. I will be solo on this, so will be rolling somehow out of the garage and onto the truck, keeping the angle at a minimum - weight and all. Have some great neighbors so the muscle is there, just a matter of getting the right "contraption" under it to make it stable and easy for the 1400 mile trip. Erik
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Lastly...
Will transporting on the heat exchangers hurt anything??? I know it's probably not ideal and have researched building a trolly of some sort. As I am selling my home, time is running out and just wondering if the engine supported on the HE's for a single trip without the transmission would be a big issue??? Thanks again - Erik
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The last time I had an engine transported, it was strapped on a pallet resting on the HEs, the standard freight stuff.
The HEs will do fine, I believe it's only 200-300 lbs of weight on each. If worried about scratching them up, put a pallet or even a piece of plywood would do under them. Pallet works great since it can be strapped down securely for the trip. |
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Quote:
Thank you! Going to still put something together, and not worried about scratching up, but appreciate the 'warning' on that. I have seen around shops on heat exchangers, but never long distance transport... Think I am in a pretty good spot at this point. If anyone else has any other input I am still open. Thanks to all so far! Erik
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On second thought, 1400 mile trip, pallet and a plywood box might not be a bad idea to protect the $$$ engine ... just in case ... don't run into bumps.
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Transporting A 911 Motor……..
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I have been transporting 911 motors from out of state locations using my old Toyota SUV for many years now. But for short distances, I prefer utility trailer to haul the engine home. The first problem is how to load the heavy motor into your transporter. If the seller has no available engine hoist, this will be a problem. Using a utility trailer with ramp solves this predicament. You need an engine hoist to load the heavy motor into the rental truck and several accessories for the lifting operation (sling, chains, bolts & nuts, etc.). In my case I have a home-made engine attachment and load leveler for lifting a 911 motor and an engine dolly and a lot of straps for securing the motor. Borrow or rent or buy a portable and collapsible engine hoist from HF. That’s how I would do to take the motor home. A wooden pallet will be good to have to place the motor on during transit and use several straps to keep the motor from sliding during heavy braking. Drive safely. Tony |
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Youze guys are overcomplicating this.
Separated from the tranny, and with the starter removed, the assembled engine weighs about 350 lbs. The long block weighs less than 300 lbs. Easy for three guys to lift. Easy for one guy to roll up a moderate incline into a trailer or low-deck U-Haul truck. The only reason you would need an engine lift or some such, is to get it up into a pickup bed or other truck-height deck. The 915 weighs around 100 lbs. Carry it or put it on a dolly.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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