2.7 x-faktory PMO EFI Upgrade.

[rwest]

Hello,

I originally had installed a Bitz Kit in my 1977 2.7 and was pretty happy with it and was very close to having it tuned up nicely... well, the siren song of ITBs caught my ear and having got great help and advice from Al before I was even thinking of becoming a customer of his made me decide his kit was the best avenue to take. I will be going at this somewhat slowly, but aiming for the next month or so to get in on the great end of summer/fall weather that we enjoy in MN.

Here’s the link to my Bitz install Bitz Kit Install in Stock '77 911S

Today, I pulled the red relay, MSD plug and cranked the motor over to get oil circulated before it sits for awhile. I then set the crank at TDC on cylinder #1 so I have a place to start when I add the ignition stuff.

[jjeffries]

Bon voyage, mon ami! The result should be very nice.

John in Conn.

[rwest]

Thanks John,

Hope it is awesome and not any headaches!

Pulled the ignition parts out.

[al lkosmal]

Rutager,
Nice kit. The supplied base tuning should get you going. As you are installing and tuning, feel free to email me if you have any questions....and , as you know, I'll review your tuning setup and datalogs to provide recommendations on how to refine the tune.

Your kit is configured for EDIS ignition and also included an IAC valve. I recommend that you get the system running well with fuel control and the EDIS ignition system .......and once that is running well/tuned decently.......then install/configure the IAC system and make the cold start/IAC changes required. I think that many people make the mistake of trying to implement all features at once.

regards,
al

[rwest]

Hi Al,

There will be emails coming, I’m sure!

Is the tune already burned into the ECU or do I need to load it before starting it up?

Did a bit of CIS removal and one fuel line before deciding that my garage was getting too hot to enjoy the work.

[rwest]

Does anyone know if the factory cruise control would work on ITBs if a custom bracket was fabricated?

Mine doesn’t actually work now, but I do many long trips and it might be nice to have the functionality. It appears that the diaphragm is in good shape, most likely the brain box has bad solder or components.

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by rwest

Hi Al,

There will be emails coming, I’m sure!

Is the tune already burned into the ECU or do I need to load it before starting it up?

Did a bit of CIS removal and one fuel line before deciding that my garage was getting too hot to enjoy the work.

You will need to load the tuning file that was provided. follow the Users Guide and, if you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

al

[rwest]

Hi Al,

I verified that I still have the email with the tune- now just a matter of putting my small brain and less than stellar computer skills to the test!

I got out in the garage early this morning to beat the heat and humidity we’ve been experiencing here lately and stripped off the rest of the CIS stuff- should be the last time I have to mess with the difficult to access 12mm bolt on the runner for cylinder #6.

[al lkosmal]

Rutager,
Getting the CIS system out is definitely a pita. Follow the User's Guide and it will explain how to load the tune file, etc. If you have questions, as you move forward, just email me and I'll talk you down off the ledge.

regards,
al

[Presco]

Hi, i am interested in upgrading my cis and this looks good, could you tell me the cost all up.
And where to go to order, cheers.

[rwest]

Thanks Al,

With the Bitz kit already installed, a lot of the CIS parts were already gone, but the 4-5-6 fuel rail adds to removal difficulties on that side.

Quick question: do I need to remove the intake studs and install longer ones? I thought I saw some in the boxes or in some instructions.

Rutager

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by Presco

Hi, i am interested in upgrading my cis and this looks good, could you tell me the cost all up.
And where to go to order, cheers.

PM me and I'd be glad to discuss your project with you.

regards,
al

[al lkosmal]

Yes, the PMO ITBs come with longer studs to accommodate the spacer height. The User's Guide refers to that part of the assembly.

regards,
al

Originally Posted by rwest

Thanks Al,

With the Bitz kit already installed, a lot of the CIS parts were already gone, but the 4-5-6 fuel rail adds to removal difficulties on that side.

Quick question: do I need to remove the intake studs and install longer ones? I thought I saw some in the boxes or in some instructions.

Rutager

[rwest]

Sounds good, the heads were recently rebuilt and I have the nice Snap-on stud removal kit. Hopefully everything goes nicely!

[al lkosmal]

the intake studs typically come out easily.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

the intake studs typically come out easily.

...and they did! The Snap-on stud removal tool is the “cat’s meow” for removing studs- the 2 nut method is for people who like to mess around and be frustrated.

Got them all out easily and will leave the new ones out until after I get all the wiring done; no sense skinning knuckles if you don’t have to.

You can see how the new studs are longer and the thickness of the plastic insulators with the PMO adapters compared with the old CIS intake runner in the second picture.

[rwest]

After removing the studs, I moved on to the crankshaft pulley and was able to remove it without too much of a struggle- much easier when you have it out of the car and zip it off with an impact driver, but using an open end wrench and a mallet tap broke it loose without turning the engine backwards.

I came upon an issue and sent Al an email as the new pulley with the “teeth” on it is very much thicker and would be jammed against the fan housing if it even went on at all- got to be something I’m missing.

[al lkosmal]

Rutager,
I emailed you regarding the crank trigger, but here is my replay. The crank wheel is spaced from the pulley, providing a gap for the lip of the fan housing to sit in. I.E. , the pully is in from of the fan housing lip and the trigger wheel is behind it with the fan housing lip in the gap between.
I don't have one in front of me, but found a pic of a typical install on the forum:

[al lkosmal]

Another crankpulley/trigger wheel install example





Note: sometimes the toothed wheel will interfere with the engine casting (upper left quadrant) and a little grinding is required for clearance.

[Knockdown]

Here’s a pic of the interference area on a 2.7.