High torque starter

[Germanblood]

Alright now I am confused. Spent the time and money to replace the starter in my 1986 911 and just like before I replaced it, when the key is turned I just get a "click", Battery is fully charged, ground strap has perfect continuity to ground of vehicle.

After I replaced the starter it started just fine now I go to start it again and "click". Please someone tell me wtf is going on? It is a brand new starter. It can't possibly have failed again!

[Jeff Higgins]

Is this "click" the solenoid activating? If so, check the positive connection to the battery and to the solenoid itself. I assume you cleaned the solenoid end when you replaced the starter, so start with the battery end.

Actually, a quick and easy check is to turn on the headlights and then turn the key to try to start the car. If the headlights dim and the starter doesn't activate, there is likely a short on that heavy positive wire to the starter. Rubbed through the insulation and is grounding out. If the headlights don't dim, it's probably an open circuit, likely caused by corrosion on one of the ends of the positive wire.

[yelcab1]

Stick a volt meter on the battery, when it goes "click," what voltage does it read at the battery?

[917_Langheck]

Which ground strap? There are more than one in the path. What is the condition of the 14 pin plug in the engine bay? Are the contacts clean? What is the voltage drop at the starter?

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by Jeff Higgins

Is this "click" the solenoid activating? If so, check the positive connection to the battery and to the solenoid itself. I assume you cleaned the solenoid end when you replaced the starter, so start with the battery end.

Actually, a quick and easy check is to turn on the headlights and then turn the key to try to start the car. If the headlights dim and the starter doesn't activate, there is likely a short on that heavy positive wire to the starter. Rubbed through the insulation and is grounding out. If the headlights don't dim, it's probably an open circuit, likely caused by corrosion on one of the ends of the positive wire.

Thanks will be checking.

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by Jeff Higgins

Is this "click" the solenoid activating? If so, check the positive connection to the battery and to the solenoid itself. I assume you cleaned the solenoid end when you replaced the starter, so start with the battery end.

Actually, a quick and easy check is to turn on the headlights and then turn the key to try to start the car. If the headlights dim and the starter doesn't activate, there is likely a short on that heavy positive wire to the starter. Rubbed through the insulation and is grounding out. If the headlights don't dim, it's probably an open circuit, likely caused by corrosion on one of the ends of the positive wire.

Haven't tried this yet but will

[Germanblood]

Thanks all. I have multiple things to check. I am sure it is something dumb, but I hate electrical ghosts in the machine. Good Police album though.

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by 917_Langheck

Which ground strap? There are more than one in the path. What is the condition of the 14 pin plug in the engine bay? Are the contacts clean? What is the voltage drop at the starter?

The ground strap from the tranny mount to the chasis is pristine and ohms out at 0 ohms.

[tobluforu]

Are you sure your battery is in good condition and that you have tested it, not just seen that it is fully charged via the charger. I ask because last year the battery I had that was 6 years old showed fully charged, trickle charger was green and all I got was a click. Swapped a battery from one of my other cars, golden. Like yelcab1, check your battery.

[Ian Comerford]

I went through some of what you are experiencing and ended up changing the ignition switch, which has cured it. It’s a job that can be done in one of two ways and both are described on the forum if you search. I went for removing the driver’s seat and lying in the footwell to change it from the rear. It’s slightly fiddly but not difficult. Hope this helps

[greg79s]

I just finished installing a starter in my 85' Carrera.

Measure the voltage at the small wire (Yellow) . Have a second person turn the key to the start position while you move the wire around. The condition of the wire can be checked near the starter.

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by tobluforu

Are you sure your battery is in good condition and that you have tested it, not just seen that it is fully charged via the charger. I ask because last year the battery I had that was 6 years old showed fully charged, trickle charger was green and all I got was a click. Swapped a battery from one of my other cars, golden. Like yelcab1, check your battery.

Brand new bat

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by Ian Comerford

I went through some of what you are experiencing and ended up changing the ignition switch, which has cured it. It’s a job that can be done in one of two ways and both are described on the forum if you search. I went for removing the driver’s seat and lying in the footwell to change it from the rear. It’s slightly fiddly but not difficult. Hope this helps

This will be my last resort, at wits end solution because I fear I will need a padded room if it does not fix this.

[Germanblood]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

Stick a volt meter on the battery, when it goes "click," what voltage does it read at the battery?

12.38V static and 12.08V when attempting start.

[famoroso]

Originally Posted by 917_Langheck

Which ground strap? There are more than one in the path. What is the condition of the 14 pin plug in the engine bay? Are the contacts clean? What is the voltage drop at the starter?

What was the condition of the 14 pin plug electrical contacts?

[SkunkWorks]

Originally Posted by famoroso

What was the condition of the 14 pin plug electrical contacts?

This.

My no start turned out to be a half-unplugged 14 pin connector in the engine bay.

[famoroso]

Originally Posted by SkunkWorks

This.

My no start turned out to be a half-unplugged 14 pin connector in the engine bay.

That's a BINGO!

14 pin connector failure point is often overlooked.

My former '88 had an inoperable engine mounted heater blower fan (and, as a result, inoperable footwell blowers too). I psyched myself out for a long and drawn out troubleshooting process, reviewed wiring diagrams, busted out the voltmeter and test light, scared myself by looking up the price of a new heater blower relay, etc , etc

Then, as luck would have it, the 14 pin connector was the first thing I inspected and look at what I found...




14 seconds later... Problem solved. Boy, was that a gratifying outcome.

[GH85Carrera]

Once you get it working, you will love it. It sounds different from the Bosch starter.

I do regular long road trips, in the heat of summer. 12 hour driving days, and often 90 to 107 degrees. The Bosch starter will simply fail from heat soak. Push starting the car is not my idea of fun. I had two different starters, both sent to a top notch starter rebuild place. They said it was dry and needed more fresh grease. Neither worked when heat soaked. They were totally fine in town.

My high torque starter has been flawless. 12 hours in 107 degree heat, park to get checked in at the hotel, and it fired right up. The sound of the starter is a beautiful thing when you want to start a car.

And if someone wants a Bosch starter, I have two I don't need. I will sell them for shipping cost only. Just PM me.

[slow&rusty]

I agree with @GH85Carrera

I installed the WOSP high torque starter in my '89 last summer and have had flawless performance. Highly recommended and hope you get the issue sorted.

[SpyderMike]

You could always bypass the start switch with a separate momentary to verify the problem is there.