Replacing engine fuel line rabbit hole.

[FrontGarage911]

While replacing the engine fuel lines without dropping the motor, I want to address everything that sits above the long block. I bought the car 5 years ago with no maintenance history. I have done a valve adjustment right after purchase which was maybe 1,000 miles ago. The car in question 1987 Carrera with 88,800 miles.

Before ordering parts, is there anything that I'm missing "while I'm in there"?

Here's the list:








I have the rear man seal just in case I decide to drop the motor. If that does happen, I'll order a clutch kit as well.


Am I missing anything? Help is appreciated.

Current state of the vehicle









Thanks for viewing.

[911obgyn]

All the little vacuum tees and elbows are probably gummy and need replaced, along with throttle plate o ring. I found doing the same on my 85 it helps to have the car on ramps or a lift to save your back from stooping.

[FrontGarage911]

Originally Posted by 911obgyn

All the little vacuum tees and elbows are probably gummy and need replaced, along with throttle plate o ring. I found doing the same on my 85 it helps to have the car on ramps or a lift to save your back from stooping.

Throttle o-ring is definitely on the list. Great tip on the vacuum lines. I'll see if I can get some new ones in my cart. Thank you.

[FrontGarage911]

A big shout out to our fuel line re-hosing expert Len Cummings! The turn around time was rather impressive. Sending a money order was a non-issue since I was going to the post office to drop off the package anyways. Thank you.





Also, another quick turn around (but not as quick as Len's service). RC Fuel injection gave the injectors a new life. I'm surprised with only 88k miles, the injectors were performing pretty poorly.





Since half of the injectors were dripping, I wonder if i had an issue with one side of the fuel injector rail.

[11BC2]

It’s the California fuel; it has too much ethanol in it, and if you let your car sit for a period of time, the injectors get gummy.

[FrontGarage911]

Originally Posted by 11BC2

It’s the California fuel; it has too much ethanol in it, and if you let your car sit for a period of time, the injectors get gummy.

Are there any additives that we can add to prevent fuel injectors gumming up? I know that's its own topic, but it's something I need to look into. Thanks for the tip.



I drop off a few bits nearby to get plated and just under 48 hours, I get a text at 7am telling me to come in before noon. This is about all the hardware you would find that sits on top of the long block.




Here's a before photo

[Aztim]

Wow you're fortunate to have such a plater nearby

Porsche recommended adding techron for cis systems, id run techron or just fill up at chevron a dose of seafoam fron time to time

[silverlock]

In addition to the vacuum lines (some Conti/OE-look from HPS does well), also look at the TB/AFM boot as well. Cracks develop as it ages out.

[356Lion]

Please share how much it cost to have your plating done for those parts.
It could help us determine if our local shops are charging fairly.
I wonder if your guys do mail in and out service.
John

[FrontGarage911]

Originally Posted by Aztim

Wow you're fortunate to have such a plater nearby

Porsche recommended adding techron for cis systems, id run techron or just fill up at chevron a dose of seafoam fron time to time

I really am. Ironically, there are two next door to each other. I drove to the plater shop without using my GPS because I "knew" the area quite well. I mistaken drove past by the place that I was SUPPOSED to go and walked into the neighboring business. I'm not disappointed, but it was eye watering expensive.

See the cost below.

Originally Posted by silverlock

In addition to the vacuum lines (some Conti/OE-look from HPS does well), also look at the TB/AFM boot as well. Cracks develop as it ages out.

My vacuum lines are not too far off from new condition. I needed a a flat bladed driver to undo the lines to the FPR and damper. TB/AFM boot in fantastic shape without any cracks.

I'll revisit the conditions once I get everything. Great suggestion.

Originally Posted by 356Lion

Please share how much it cost to have your plating done for those parts.
It could help us determine if our local shops are charging fairly.
I wonder if your guys do mail in and out service.
John

I lost my appetite after hearing their quote but I had it done. It was $500. Mind you that I'm in California and It was about 2 miles away from me. California has up the environmental fees.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by FrontGarage911

Are there any additives that we can add to prevent fuel injectors gumming up? I know that's its own topic, but it's something I need to look into. Thanks for the tip.

Be sure to not let your gas sit for more than 6 months (dive it enough to get fresh) add a can of seam foam for every 16 gallons you add. With seaFoam and or stabil fuel freshener they claim two years of freshness, so 6 months should be great.

I can only get ethanol fuel, and following this method I've had no issues. On one of my cars I drain the tank every year and put the old gas in the daily driver, the drain car does not often see enough miles to use up the gas.

[PeteKz]

FYI, "Project Farm" recently finished a long term test of fuel stabilizers. Stabil brand was the clear winner in preventing metal corrosion inside the fuel system. However, none of the tested stabilizers did well at preserving or stabilizing the fuel.

One more time: The best thing you can do to prevent fuel problems is to drive it regularly and put fresh fuel in it. If you know it will be parked for long periods, then try like hell to find pure gas and fill the tank with that. Otherwise, drain the fuel.

[FrontGarage911]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

Be sure to not let your gas sit for more than 6 months (dive it enough to get fresh) add a can of seam foam for every 16 gallons you add. With seaFoam and or stabil fuel freshener they claim two years of freshness, so 6 months should be great.

I can only get ethanol fuel, and following this method I've had no issues. On one of my cars I drain the tank every year and put the old gas in the daily driver, the drain car does not often see enough miles to use up the gas.

I'll siphon as much as I can to have more control of the fumes. Our garage is attached to our main living area and draining the tank would not be good for the family. But I fully understand your point.

Silly question. How about I fill up with the tank with a few gallons at a time? Would that be more beneficial?

Originally Posted by PeteKz

FYI, "Project Farm" recently finished a long term test of fuel stabilizers. Stabil brand was the clear winner in preventing metal corrosion inside the fuel system. However, none of the tested stabilizers did well at preserving or stabilizing the fuel.

One more time: The best thing you can do to prevent fuel problems is to drive it regularly and put fresh fuel in it. If you know it will be parked for long periods, then try like hell to find pure gas and fill the tank with that. Otherwise, drain the fuel.

"Drive your car" is so much easier than it sounds!

I would if I could. But for some reason I can find 50 hours to do this fuel line job.

I appreciate the PF suggestion, I'll give that a look. Thank you.


When replacing the air filter a few years ago, I couldn't get the rear bottom air box latch to latch. I tried a bit too hard and well, it broke. Since the whole manifold is out, I've been trying to come up with a way to repair the tab on the air box, and here it is.

I found a washer that matched the size of the crevice, stuck it in a vice and hammered it in to a U shape. I sanded the box and the washer with 80 grit and applied JB Weld. I allowed it to cure over and night and these are the results.






Last one. Can I cut off the end of this cruise control cable to get the bracket replated? Or would it be too short if I were to put a new crimp on it?