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Join Date: Apr 2002
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Where and how, do I replace no.8 main bearing oil seal?
In prep for the next engine drop (check on seals, oil cooler 0-rings, etc.,). I am somewhat confused on the no. 8 seal (p.32 and 33 Haynes).
Is this accessed directly by removing the fan pulley? I do not recall seeing this last time I replaced the fan belt and new pulley. What all needs to be removed to see this particular seal? Is the shroud removed also? Lastly, does the shroud need to be removed to replace the oil cooler rings? This is a 69 911 E, green shroud. Thanks
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In the Pelican tech articles I found two relating to the above queston on the oil cooler. I will not know for certain whether I have rivets that might obstruct access. I do know that I have an oil cooler cover plate though.
I could not find anything in the tech articles on installing the no. 8 "pulley" side seal though. I'm still not certain on where this seal is found and accessed.
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1969 911 E Coupe "Little Bull" "Horse" "H." Heart, "G." Gears, and "P" the Porsche |
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I belive you don't have to remove the shroud to get to the oil cooler on your engine. It should have a seperate plate over the cooler as it's shroud.
The #8 bearing is held in by studs but I don't remember if the seal itself can be removed without splitting the case
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Tim 1973 911T 2005 VW GTI "Dave, hit the brakes, but don't look like your htting the brakes...what? I DON'T KNOW, BRAKE CASUAL!!!" dtw's thoughts after nearly rear ending a SHP officer |
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THere are two seals by the #8 bearing. One you can change, one you cant. The bearing is surrounded by an o-ring which you cannot change without splitting the case. However there is a standard crankshaft-seal there that you CAN change. It is accessed by removing the pulley. I would recommend a seal installer to do this while the motor is together.
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Chris ---------------------------------------------- 1996 993 RS Replica 2023 KTM 890 Adventure R 1971 Norton 750 Commando Alcon Brake Kits |
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Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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If you have the ability to remove an engine, then you'll have no trouble with the oil cooler seals. The grey cover thing should be removed though, since that pesky thermostat o-ring is under it. If you have leaking back there, down the back of the oil cooler, then that o-ring has failed. In either case, I strongly recommend replacing it (oil cooler thermostat o-ring).
Chris is right about the front seal(s). If your nose bearing is leaking, it could very well be the o-ring, unfortunately.
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Quote:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_oil_cooler_repl/911_oil_cooler_repl.htm So I'm still not certain on the complexity of getting to the cooler rings. Whether the cooler needs to be completely removed or not? The engine comes out tomorrow (less than a week since the previous drop). I see oil drips from directly beneath where the engine and transmission join. I'm wondering whether the flywheel seal is not seated correctly, or whether it needs moly grease (which was not used). We'll see tomorrow.
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You need to remove the oil cooler completely to get at the seals. THere are three. The studs are too short to just sort of "rotate it" off and there frankly would be no time savings to doing this anyway. Make sure you lube the new seals with oil so they can spread properly when compressed.
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Chris ---------------------------------------------- 1996 993 RS Replica 2023 KTM 890 Adventure R 1971 Norton 750 Commando Alcon Brake Kits |
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