Pulling trigger on FM10 and KD's...

[NoLift911]

After much research and deliberation I am going ot order these up in the following specs...

84 Carrera

Fikse FM10 Technipolish
G-Force KD's
7.5 front with 205/50/17
9 rears with 255/40/17

Gonna do this today so if anyone has any suggestions or alternate ideas please respond.

(P.S. CUP II's for sale with SO2's with same sizing as above. Mint, 5k miles on them)

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com

[jpachard]

You can fit 8's in the front no problem. I have two sets of Fikse wheels for my '87 911 Carrera and they fit fine.

Cheers, James

[pbs911]

I put the 7.5 and 9" FM-10s on my 78SC about 1.5 years ago.

I wish I would have gone with the 8's in the front. With the factory alignment specs the 8's would fit easily. With the 1.5 degrees negative camber I run I could probably fit 8.5" but that may through off the balance between the front and rear wheel widths. The 9's are fine in the rear but you could go with 9.5"s if they get the offset dead on. If I did it again, I would make the 9.5" wheels fit.

Also the 205's in the front are too skinny. I run 225's Kumo Estacia MX on the front and they fit the wheel perfect. I first ran 215's on the front and they were too skinny.

I currently run 255's on the rear but wish I would have gone with the 265's. There is enough room on the fender side and the 255's look a little small on the 9" rim.

Hope this helps. For cleaning the wheels use a soft paint brush to get into the crevices.

[tchanson]

Originally posted by jpachard
You can fit 8's in the front no problem. I have two sets of Fikse wheels for my '87 911 Carrera and they fit fine.

Cheers, James

I agree. Why not 8's in front with 225/45's instead of 205/50's?

With Fikse's 911 offsets, they'll fit with no problem.

Good luck,
Tim

[MuffinMan]

I second the recommendation for 8's up front.

My other suggestion is to ask about the coating of the rim. I bought my FM10s in 1999 with the standard finish, which I believe was the technipolish. While the rim center has a nice protective coating, the polished aluminum rims do not have a coating. This makes it much easier for brake dust to eat into the finish of the rims. I let heavy brake dust from the track sit on the wheels for 5 days once, and it was *not* a fun experience to clean them.

Therefore, I recommend asking Fikse or your dealer about coating the entire wheel, to make your life easier. A friend recently purchased, and I think the clear coating was $50/wheel.

[ChrisBennet]

I would got with any Fikse but the FM-10. The FM-10's are hard to clean. Don't say I didn't warn you...
-Chris

[///alpinepower]

Put 225 on front and clean with Simple Green.....those FM10s look very nice

[MuffinMan]

hard to clean...you said it, my friend! There are little nooks & crannies inside each "spoke" that needs to be carefully cleaned. I love the look, though.

There is a "lip" the creates "corners" on every spoke. I can't find a blow-up right now, but see if this pic helps:

[ChrisBennet]

From Simple Green's web site

Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.

[tchanson]

I've wondered about the SG/Aluminum issue as well, since Fikse specifically recommends a 50/50 mix of Simple Green/H20 to clean their wheels.

I prefer P21S wheel cleaner, and have never had a problem using it on both Fikse and Kinesis wheels with various finishes.

Tim

[NoLift911]

OK so 225's?

Wheel Enhancement told me mods such as serious fender rolling and lots of negative camber will be needed to make those fit.

My 205's rub slightly at the track...kinda leary about going bigger.

My thoughts were I do a few DE events a year and yes my car does push a little but I thought the added grip of the KD's would help that...point is for me it is not a huge issue...and I was trying to cut weight as the primary focus of this excercise...

I would never go with a fatter tire in the rear so why get a 9.5?

I want light. Suspension has RUF sways and the yellow sport shocks are my only mods.

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com

[arrivederci]

I clean my FM5s with a wash mit and normal car wash soap. Works fine so far...but the FM5s have to be a bit easier to keep clean.

[91C2wrencher]

Don't know if it's the same car YMMV but I have the combo listed below and plan on going to 275 rubber in the rear, my wheels where ordered as "maxed out" for a C2, so I going on the assumption that the offsets are right on. The FM 10 are hard to keep clean, I use PS21 gel and as it stays put a little longer in the lip area seems to clean fine. They look great but if I did it again(to many $$$ for Fikse) I'd get the FM5 spoke, easy clean good looks. check the pics in the gallery. good luck!

Oh, I see there's nothing listed below! frt, 8.5x17(235/40) rear, 9.5x17(255/40) soon to be 275/40

[MuffinMan]

FYI, I have 8's & 9's on my 77 911S w/ SC rear flares. I run ~-1.5 of camber in the front, and both front & rear fenders are rolled. I've had the following combos on the car:

235/275 (old-style R1s)
235/255 (A032Rs)

next is 245/275 (Victoracers)

[don911]

We had a tech session at Fikse's place earlier in the summer. The black anodized centers (race black finish) looks pretty trick as well. Plus it would not show the grim in the corners.

[Kevin Stewart]

with 225's up front you will be working on the front fenders, stay with the 205's unless you want to roll the lips and maybe yank(sorry pull) the fender out some when your at the track, Kevin

[NoLift911]

Hmmmmm....I guess I asked for this with the posting.

I always wonder how you can get two completely opposite experiences with fitments on the front. I know the cars are different. My fenders are rolled, not significantly as in there is room for more rolling if needed.

I just don't need massive rubbing at the track. I had my 205's on for 2 years before I discovered I had a rubbing issue which showed up at the track.

I am buying these from Radial Tire in Silver Spring and was told I can get teh correct offset to work with 7.5 or 8 with a 225...

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com

[sasaki]

I've got some corrosion from the rain on my FM-10's. Is there any products out there that I can use to get rid of the corrosion?

back to the topic-
I've got 8's up front and 9's in the rear on an 89' 964_C4, when steering all the way to either side the tires would slightly rub. I'm running 225/45's up front. Hope that helps.

[arrivederci]

Too much uncertainty there Jeff. You should cancel the order and put some pristine 7 and 8 x 15 fuchs on your car.

[NoLift911]

Originally posted by jpinkert
Too much uncertainty there Jeff. You should cancel the order and put some pristine 7 and 8 x 15 fuchs on your car.

Uh huh....

Anyway back to the issue at hand. 7.5 will allow a 225 so why go 8? I would like to here the reasoning behind this other than it would allow me to go larger than 225 which I would never do.

I am guessing that there should be a way to use he correct offset for no rubbing issues at all...maybe Fikse knows.

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com