993 convetible top closure problem

[RickM]

Seeking a solution for a friend. The following is an interpretation of his vague problem description....

1995 Cab with a recent new battery. Previous battery had been dead for a while.

When working properly one set of motors opens the convertible top and unfolds it to the point where the posts in the soft top make contact with the female receptacles in the windshield frame. At this point another set of motors (in the windshield frame?) kick in and pull the posts into the frame completely.

The problem is my friend's top closes top to the point where it makes it to the windshield frame but not far enough for the posts to enter the receptacles. As a result the closing process cannot complete.

Dealer needs to see the car as the motors are out of sync...a result of the dead battery.

Anyone have a clue on a re-syncing process?

[Britwrench]

It has nothing to do with the dead battery. The main frame needs adjusting forward to allow the pins to locate. Also the microswitches that turn off the lifiting motor and turn on the header rail motors need adjusting. All of these adjustments are fairly simple.

[RickM]

Just going by what the dealer told a friend. I haven't seen it in person yet. Although I have a feeling I will soon.

Could you give me an idea where the main adjustment and micro switchs are?

[RickM]

Bump

[AFJuvat]

The first thing he has to do is get the tension off of the cab top.

Do this by undoing the 6mm allen bolts on the top of the transmission arm - this will disconnect the cab frame from the transmissions. Do not loosen the 19mm bolt in the center of the transmission.

With no tension on the top, the top should drop into the guides on the windshield frame. Use the power latching to lock the top closed.

Next. Remove the backpad and disconnect the drive cables from the cab top motors.

Now it is time to remove the transmissions and realign them. Unbolt them from the side panels of the car - 3 X 10mm bolts with spacers behind them.

(You do the following to both transmissions)

On the back side of the transmission, you will see a black plastic plate and a silver plate where the cable connects. Remove the screws that secure the silver plate. This will disconnect the drive cable from the transmission. Clean and regrease the gears and the cable. Set aside for the moment.

Check the transmission arm for free movement The arm should move through 360 degrees of rotation without binding or catching anywhere. If it binds anywhere, the transmission is damaged beyond repair and must be replaced.

(This next part is optional)

Assuming the transmission moves freely, loosen the 19mm bolt in the center of the transmission and remove the arm and the shims that are behind it. Note the orientation of the arm as it relates to the gear

The "Half gear" and center hub should pop out of the transmission housing at this point.

Clean and grease the center hub.

Replace center hub and "Half gear", replace the shims and arm, tighten canter bolt (blue loctite optional)

(End optional procedure)

Now for the alignment (this also applies if you are replacing the transmission): On the center of the transmission arm, you will see a raised nub, about 3/4 of an inch long. On the transmission housing, you will see a notch. On a replacement transmission, they will be aligned already - Otherwise, line the nub up with the notch.

Reinstall the gear drive on the back of the transmission

The transmission is now at factory defualt for a closed and locked top.

Reinstall the transmission on the side panel of the car - leave the bolts loose for now.

Repeat the above procedure for the other transmission.

Now that both transmissions are installed, but still loose - reattach the arm on the transmission to the cab top frame. With the transmissions loose, you can move it around a bit to "find" its natural position.

Once the transmissions are reattached, tighten the bolts holding the transmissions to the car.

Reconnect the cables and test.

If you are still a bit off:

Below the transmission, there is what looks like a big butterfly nut secured with two 17mm bolts, one on each "wing".

Loosen the bolts and slide the cab frame forward or back as necessary.

Do not touch the nuts below the butterfly.

Retighten.

If you are STILL off. Behind the small zippers on either side of the cab top, you will see the main supports for the cab top. the support is held in with 6mm socket head cap screws. Take a 6mm allen wrench and loosen the screws and slide the frame a bit more forward or back as necessary.

Still off? Seek professional assistance.

AFJuvat

[expat]

Nice post AFJuvat!!

Could not be better except with pictures.

Printed this for the future (hoping not needed)

Mark

[RickM]

AF,

Thanks a million.

It's very much appreciated. When I go do this for my friend I'll take pics.
Thanks again!

[Garrett]

check out my post on a "neighbor board" with pictures when I fixed my top:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100821&highlight=cabrio+top