hallo Ryan
Tholyoak is right about the oil Outside the Ring and on the restrictor , there is no restrictor in the crankcase Ventilation , just in the Intake hose .I dont think that pressure in the Crankcase would cause this ,my guess is a bad seal or a install problem .
the partnumber is 99911342641 .
Harald

Guys,

the restrictor was in the correct place. If it would have been in the line between the crankcase breather and the oil tank the engine would still die upon removing the oil filler cap. It did not.

I agree that assembly lube is a big no-no on the outside of the crankshaft seal. It should be as dry as possible. I use motor oil on my finger to slightly wet the inside of the lip of the seal before install. Mine went in only with some effort. I am concernred when Ryan said his went in so easy. I was afraid I would destroy mine with all the tapping (using the old seal as a punch) that was required. BTW: It did not turn over my engine at all before firing it up and it sat for a long long time.

Hm Harald, my PET says [999.113.461.40 sealing ring 90x110x11] for the flywheel seal on a 964 engine.

999.113.426.41 is for the 993 engines with 90x110x12. It is one milimeter taller than the previous. I don't think that matters because it'll sit recessed in the case anyway.

The Pelican seal part# K-113-264-40 is equal to 999.113.264.40 which is a 928 seal with 110x90x12. I think any of the above seals should work O.K. and would probably install either the 928 or the 993 seal myself.

Ingo

Regarding the Curil T issue...............

The reason Wayne recommends it as a precaution/preventative measure for future leaks is because the sealant is applied to the case opening when the case is apart! Meaning, the crank is laid into the case half, seal is placed on crank end, then other case half is installed. That's how I remember reading it.

Plus, if you apply the Curil to the opening (with the case joined) and then press the seal into place, you're simply going to push away a large amount of sealant- even if the sealant is applied sparingly. As others have said, the flywheel seal is a tight fit.

Like I said, I’ll know for sure when I the engine out. I hope I see the seal popped out and chewed up so I know for sure. I’ll go w/ the CurilT on the out side and assembly lube on the inside this time, carefully.

So, which one do you think I should get, the 12mm or the 11mm thick seal? If it’s just a toss of the coin here, I’ll go w/ the 11mm since it is for the 964.

I’ll open the restrictor up a little but you guys have convinced me that it was not much of a factor and probably not a factor at all.

This is a pretty hard lesson for a 5 minute job and a $10 part.

Kevin, I don’t remember reading it that way but I will double check. JW did say that he installs them dry, and you can’t go wrong when following his advice. I think I’m just paranoid now.

I would go with the 12mm seal since the seat allows for the additional 1mm easily. It's one more millimeter that holds on to the case and keeps the seal in position. Just push it in all the way dry after cleaning the area with IPA.

The seal has three of four little seams on the outside circumference that act like barbs to prevent it from coming out of its seat. That area should be squeaky clean.

Ingo

First of all, I'd recommend being darned sure that the oil is coming from inside the bellhousing. With all the windage of these engines, it's hard to tell. Yes, you're probably correct that your rear main seal fell out. but you'l feel very silly if you remove the engine and discover that an oil like failed and sprayed oil everywhere, making it look like a rear main seal failure.

Do not lube a seal's outer edge. Put lithium grease on the seal lip (which contacts the crankshaft), but either leave the outer edge dry, or lube it with beer or something that will dry.

I'm from the Old School when it comes to crankcase ventilation. My first choice is to vent it to the atmosphere, with very little restriction (perhaps a screen/filter, that's all). If it's vented to the oil tank, then the tank needs to be further vented to avoid positive pressure. So, then there's a line to the air box, which allows oil to splash into your intake system. Heck with that. Of course, I have not changed my system, but if I had a blowby problem I'd be tempted.

Right... :rolleyes: ;)

I'm ordering the 12mm seal now!

Now that's a suggestion that I can understand!

With the engine running, it was pouring out of the bell housing. If anything else can dump that much oil out of that area, I really don’t want to find out what it is.

Ryan, the clutch disc probably got a large dose of mobil 1. so, you won't be dropping the engine for just a $10 seal ;) .
max

you had beer pouring out of the bell housing? Is that a factory Heineken engine?

I was thinking the same thing. :(

Be sure to clean the clutch housing really well too. Don't want any stray oil getting on the next clutch disc.

I was also thinking the same as what SuperJim said about the OD of the seal. Something like beer, spit, water, whatever......... just to lube it for the press-in and then eventually disappears. I must admit that my flywheel seal was such a PITA to go in, that I used one of those factory install tools. I tried all sorts of tricks, tools, and patience. And still couldn't get the seal to start well and stay in place before popping out. Although the factory press tool was pretty cool to use. Made me feel like a pro for a millisecond........ then I came to my senses and accepted the fact that i'm a puss.

I forgot about that! Is there anyway to save it?

I have another clutch disk so it’s covered, but damn, a Sachs Power clutch isn’t cheap.

Sorry. But every time i've heard of this kind of thing happening, the disc is always said to be ruined.

Hey Scott, I have a replacement clutch for you, cheap! ;)

This sucks so bad I can't help but laugh.

as Kevin says, just clean up the flywheel and the pressure plate to get any traces of oil off of it, and install a new clutch disc. (no need for a whole new clutch assembly IMHO)
max

Lots of brake cleaner on the PP and housing works wonders and throw a new driven disk in and drive off into the sunset! Just do not try to stay ahead of MikeZ or Ingo for a while!

Joe

Definitely no need for new clutch parts except the disk. The disk is probably toast, but the other parts will clean up nicely. Be aggressive in cleaning them, though. Of course, you'll also need a fistfull of flywheel bolts. PP bolts are often replaced too, but not everyone does. Flywheel bolts, yes. PP bolts, maybe.

And one more time: I trust your judgement that the oil is coming from the bellhousing, but I still strongly suggest to be SURE before you R&R the engine. I like being right, but I don't want to be right on this advice, in this case, AFTER you remove the engine. You don't want to get in there and find a dry bellhousing, then notice that the oil line going under the engine has a big crack in it.

Ryan:

That sounds like a slippery deal! ;)

Scott

hallo Ingo
That happens if you use a old PET Version , 40 is the old version and NLA , the new one is 41 ,you are right it is 1 mm wider .
@Ryan : i wouldnt worry to much about the Clutchdisc , you drove the Car for such a short Time that i doubt the Oil even reached the disc , it hardy filled up your Oil filter . By looking at the Pictures again maybe you cleaned the Engine so hard that you polished a hole in it .
I am sure that the seal just slipped out ,just replace it and you are back
on the road .
Harald