Early 911s and rust, Part 2

[onewhippedpuppy]

A follow-up on my earlier question about early 911s and rust, what is the proper technique to rust proofing an early 911 under restoration. Are there any processes/ products that can be used for a completely dissassembled pre-galvanized car under restoration that will help to prevent rust? I'm sort of starting to car shop, and if I look at any restored cars I'd like to know if it was done right. I did a search, and some people elluded to a properly rust proofed restored 911 actually being better than new as far as resisting rust, but no one actually outlined the process. Thanks

[Evans, Marv]

Matt:
I don't know what effect rustproofing would have on the "restoration" of an early 911. I think an authentically restored would require starting with one that is rust free as possible. As far as rust proofing an early car (which I'm going to be involved in doing pretty soon), You would have to disassemble it as far as bumpers, fenders. windows, etc. are concerned and treat areas you can access with products like those offers by POR 15 or Eastwood. There would still be areas hard to get to that would be difficult, like under the sheet metal below the back window, rockers, etc. Like I said before, it's best to find as rust free a car as possible to start with. My '72 had rust issues I uncovered later on & it would have been too much expense to correct it.

[onewhippedpuppy]

I'm refering to a already completely dissassembled car that is currently undergoing a restoration. How could the body be prepped and finished that would make it as rust proof as possible? Undercoating, epoxy treatments, galvanizing coatings, I don't kow, that's why I ask.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Surely someone here has restored their car and can give me a little feedback on this?

[3.2 CAB]

Hi Matt, I have successfully used a product in the past called CHEMPRIME. It will remove rust and corrosion on steel body panels. It will also leave a protective coating on bare steel. Looks like it has been clearcoated when dry. I use it as metal prep coating, after drying, hit it with a scuff pad, then do what glazing, filler, surfacer, sealer then paint as needed. I have used gals. and gals. of this product. There are simular products out there. This product was actually used for rust-proofing and paint prep work for offshore oil rigs. I have dipped parts to remove rust, it does not do like the products that "chemically change rust" only to have rust still under the "changed" part it leaves bare metal. It will remove paint if vatted and soaked. I have no connection to this or any other product that I might have mentioned, except from using them.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Ok, tell me what you guys think about this, it's the details of the prep/ paint on the car I'm considering, copied straight from the email:
"The car will be getting what is called a rust ecapasulater type paint along
with a coating called poly blend. A poly blend type coating was also used at
the Porsche factory but you normally did not start to see it until approx.
1979. To prep the car, the was media blasted using garnet and aluminum oxide
to take away all of the old paint and undercoating. The car will be
reundercoated with a PVC base undercoating, versus the asphalt undercoating
it originally. The reason for this is PVC remains some what flexible over
several years where the asphalt coating doesn't and starts to crack and let
moisture through. To finish off the car, we are going to go with either a
Chromobase German paint or and Enamel base paint. 2 - 3 coats of primer,
2 -3 coats of paint and 2 - 3 coats of clear coat.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Anybody interpret this, I have very little experience with paint/ body work.

[vol96]

Hope you get some informative responses because I am interested too. What I can tell you is that I had a 72e with rust holes on the rear shelf and the rear seat bucket. After patching with new sheetmetal, I used a primer/sealer and re-undercoated the underside with the Wurth spray on undercoating. Last time I saw this area was about 5-7 years after shooting it and it looked fine.

Next time I do something like that, I would like to use a light shaded primer/sealer then a dark shaded undercoat that can be top coated. I would then top coat (on the undercoat) an enamel or something that will be slick and shinny. I have 3 reasons for this top coat: 1) It will be easy to clean cause dirt should wipe off, 2) close inspection would reveal cracks in the undercoat because you would be able to see light shaded primer/sealer, 3) I like the way it looks, especially in the engine bay.

Maybe some others will chime in with their opinions/experiences with chassis bare metal prep/protection.

[boston95]

Fellas, this should help.

67S resto, a blast and front pan replace


Damon's the man.

[vol96]

I did a google search on "PPG DPlf". Wow, what a treasure of info popped up. Including: http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/rust_proofing.htm

I'll be studying that site for a while.

Boston95.....thanks for the lead.