Hydraulic hints needed

[Don Plumley]

When you replace the clutch M/C and S/C, how do you minimize the fluid pouring out all over everywhere? I'm guessing that it is best not to let the brake M/C run dry, not to mention the mess.

I've heard that when you replace brake hydraulic components (e.g. soft lines), if you press and hold the brake pedal in a bit, it will keep the fluid from running out the lines. Is this right? So can I extrapolate this to the clutch hydraulic bits, and press and hold in the clutch pedal with a stick or something?

And any hints on the clutch M/C replacement?

Thanks!

[Rot 911]

Just keep the caps on the master cylinders only a bit of fluid will leak out. You will still have to bleed the cylinders after the replacement.

[don911]

I've held the brake pedal when replacing calipers and it worked great for keeping the lines from dripping. I assume it would work the same for the clutch MC. Make sure you open the bleed valve on the S/C to relieve the pressure before opening up the lines.

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my car a couple of weeks ago. I can't give any good advice since the motor was out at the time so access wasn't an issue.

When bleeding the system, don't do what I did. I had the rear up pretty high. I use my pressue bleeder without fluid and just use it to pressurize the system. I was watching the fluid level in the reservoir but forgot that the feed lines are on the side. Because of the angle of the car, I ended up blowing bubbles into my catch bottle. I coudn't figure out why the fluid level wasn't changing and where all the air was coming from. Took me a few minutes to figure out I'm an idiot.

[johnsjmc]

If you just leave the resevoir cap on you will still get leakage because the cap is vented. Putting a piece of "saran" plastic wrap under the cap first will stop most of the drain out.You still need to bleed air out but not very much. Don,t forget a bleed hose and to remove the plastic wrap before bleeding.

[Don Plumley]

Great hints - Thanks!!

[KTL]

Even if you put some saran wrap (good idea) under the reservoir cap, it'll still dribble out because not only is the cap vented, but the reservoir itself is vented. Remember the side tube you must clamp when using the pressure bleeder? Drain down the reservoir a little bit below the feed nipple on the reservoir for the clutch fluid feed line.

You're going to get a bit of drippage when you disconnect the master cylinder fluid feed line because the reservoir is much higher than the master cylinder itself. Just have a small container ready to catch the fluid when you disconnect the line at the cylinder in the pedal cluster.

The clutch MC is on my to-do list (along with looking at the pedal cluster bushings) this winter. Too cold out in that garage!!!

You'll find that access to the slave is kinda tight. Do yourself a favor and move any heater cables and so forth out of the way to reduce frustration.

The same idea as the brake pedal applies to the clutch pedal. Just release the fluid pressure from the bleeder valve BEFORE removing the slave, or you could pop the plunger out of the slave upon removal (depending how far you have the pedal depressed). Do not press the pedal with the slave removed from the trans. bellhousing.

Once you get the M8/13mm nuts off the slave, you can move the cyl. off the trans by pulling the hard portion of the fluid feed line out of the plastic bracket. Might as well replace this line if the rubber portion shows ANY signs of aging.

Upon reinstallation, put a very small dab of grease on the end of the new slave cyl. pushrod. Something preferably more long lasting than white lithium grease. Try wheel bearing grease.

[johnsjmc]

Petroleum grease should NOT be near rubber seals in brake and clutch components (it can cause swelling,seizing and failure). Silicone grease or dilectric tune up grease is OK .Avoid the petroleum type if there is any chance it will get on the hydralic seals.

[KTL]

Exactly.

That's why I said to use a very small amount on the tip of the pushrod. Silicone grease will not last in the area of the clutch release fork. An EP grease or antiseize paste will be more long-lived down in the socket of the clutch fork.