RSR clone or Turbolook rear suspension options

[Shuie]

Is there anything wrong with simply using a spacer to fill out the rear trubo flares for a RSR clone or a turbo bodied car that will be mostly used on the street? What size spacer would you use with a 9" Fuch to fill out rear RSR flares?

I read some old posts saying that either using 930 trailing arms with modified pickup points or camber boxes & coilovers with standard trailing arms will give better suspension geometry and track performance. Is there a significant benefit with either of these options over a conventional setup on a street car? The factory Turbolook cars used standard trailing arms and wheel spacers didnt they?

TIA

[TRE Cup]

no- the factory turbo looks came with turbo rear arms (and hence geometry) , turbo front and rear brakes, BOGE front struts with NON turbo tie rods. Advantages? Yes, but are you willing to shell out for the arms ($1000 a pair), fabrication ($600 and up). If you are racing on the track- by all means, its part of the upgrade process- but you can spend the money elsewhere in the suspension and get more bang for your $

[Shuie]

Thanks Dave!

So, keeping the standard arms and using a wheel spacer to fill the flares wont make the car look fonky will it? It just wouldnt have the same rear camber or hookup ability that a RSR or a 930 would have, right?

I take it that new bushings/t-bars/shocks would be the better bang for the buck, is there anything else Im missing?

[nick-moss]

This is my 74 2.7 Carrera with standard rear bananas and 75mm spacers. The wheels are 9 x 16 Fuchs and 245 tyres

[Shuie]

Thanks Nick. Beautiful car! Did you have to use a spacer for the fronts?

[nick-moss]

There are no spacers on the front which are 8 x 16

[Elombard]

Shu I dont think the Turbo rear suspension changed the track, just the geometry. The factory filled out the arches with wider wheels and spacers. I could be wrong...

[TRE Cup]

The rear track on a turbo is wider than the 911. The factory compensated for the wider brake rotor and caliper and offset the extension of the bearing hub as well, to accomodate the huge bearings in there. Shuie- you can use 2" spacers in the rear with an 8 x 16 fuchs and it will fill it out nicely. Otherwise find some WIDE wheels with 4.5" back spacing. You can comforatbly go to an 11 x 15 (no tires available though) or the 2 piece Lindsey wheels without spacers (see jack olsen's car pix)

[Shuie]

Thanks TRE!

[Jack Olsen]

Did somebody say picture?





THose are the Lindsey 11's in the back, and 9.5's in the front.

[TRE Cup]

how does that James Taylor song go? "I'm a steam roller, babe, and I'm gonna roll all over you"

[Mr9146]

Thank you, Dave. I've been saying that about those wheels since he got 'em.

I wonder what those would look like Photochopped onto a steamroller. Anyone?

[Shuie]

Only two pics???? Jack, your killing me

Ok, question about the 2 piece Lindsay wheels on BBII:
Since Jacks car has the modified suspension geometry, it probably would not be smart to assume that the same 11x17 Lindsay he is running in the rear would work on a car setup for t-bars and standard trailing arms?

[Jack Olsen]

I have standard trailing arms. The mounting points are raised, with Smart Racing camber boxes. My rear track might be the same as a standard 911's, and I actually am running approx. 1/2 inch spacers in the rear to fill out the flares with the current 315 tires. With 335 or 345 rears, I'd eliminate/reduce the spacers.

The smartest thing, with the Lindseys on a one-of-a-kind car is probably to first settle on a rear end, and then measure and order your wheels. It's also good to err on the side of too little backspace, so that you can use small spacers for the fine tuning.

[Shuie]

Thanks again everyone! Great info.