Are you referring to the braided line lying on the 3.6? If so, that is actually a loose line not connected to anything. I believe that's the line that will hook from the engine to the front oil cooler thermostat in the wheel well.

Several people I spoke with, including my shop doing the installation (Powertech, in NJ) and Steve Weiner, suggested that the stock airbox is actually superior to the cone filters. I believe this is due to CFD considerations and also the fact that they are pulling air from a slightly cooler location. I modified a stock airbox lid to simulate the cup airbox lid. The Motorsports airbox lid I purchased from Embs is actually for a friend's 993.

I also prefer the stock air cleaners. An additional advantage is the intake is perfectly situated to get the coolest possible air.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1076272548.jpg

On mine no mods were required above the sheetmetal to use Thom's tube, but the heat from the B&B/964 heat ducts necessitated some mods
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa..._008_small.jpg

The top piece where the tube connects to the engine needs to be swapped for the 964 equivalent piece
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa..._006_small.jpg

Forgot to add the part # for the 964 air duct(top piece)
964 106 403 01

~$35

Rob, your car rocks. I've never seen it in the area. I'm from Flemington and drive through L'vlle every time I go up there. I went to the Lawrenceville School too. I hope to see your car sometime, maybe at SP or a NJ event.

Richard, I'm around! My parents live between Ringoes & Sergentsville, so I'm actually in the Flemington area a fair amount, and often in this car during nice weather.

Yes, it is gone. My shop removed the air pump system and plugged the holes.

The transmission rebuild continues:

http://home.comcast.net/~rfusi/915_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~rfusi/915_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~rfusi/915_3.jpg

Good job! Have you thought about a trans cooler? I love spending someones elses $$
;)

I investigated it a bit and I'm going to see how hot it gets before I move forward. I'm a fan of the KISS approach, so if it runs cool enough without additional aids, I will leave it as-is.

A few of my friends recently took the Bruce Anderson/Jerry Woods engine rebuilding and transmission class, and they came back with quite a bit of useful information. According to Jerry Woods, 915 transmissions can run relatively hot before the need for additional cooling arises. I'll have to check the notes, but I believe Jerry said you can run them as high as 270F before you need to worry about it. My shop (Powertech) concurred, and said to keep it under 280-300. Nevertheless, I'm going to measure the temperature at my first track event to see where I stand.

As far as spending money, I seem to be doing pretty well on my own right now ;)

Sounds like a good plan. As far as I know Jack is the only one that has actually installed a temp. gage on his trans, and monitored it. He has reported no problems in street use but some frightening #s on the track. I can't remember what they were but they were eye opening :eek:

I had a long conversation w/ Gary Fairbanks about this issue. He also felt that for most users the coolers are unnecessary. He desscribed it as a "hurricane of oil"

I fell into the camp that it couldn't hurt and it's only money;)

I'm interested in seeing how Steve's Giac chip performs. The Audi guys seem to like them alot.

Will you be able to have a useable diagnostic port?

My shop said that the 915 actually holds a relatively consistent temperature after it gets hot. In other words, if you're running on the track and it's at 250F, you can pull into the pits and let the car sit there for a few minutes and it will still be at 250F (the case and everything). I have not done enough research to tell you how true that statement is, but his advice was to simply measure the transmission temperature with a pyrometer at the end of a run. I was planning on adding a temperature sensor to my transmission, but I decided against it based on that knowledge.

I am also extremely interested to see how Steve's chip performs. I get a very good feeling from him, and his advice has always been quite sound. My only regret is that I won't have any before/after data for comparison, so I won't truly know what the chip did for me. If there are any special graphs you would like to see, just let me know and I'll have them printed out. As you recall, I'll be using a Dynapack dynamometer for the analysis.

Also, I will have a usable diagnostic port.

That is one sweet setup! Have you figured out which way to go with the throttle cable set up?

"I went with a US OBDII engine with the drive block disabled and mapping updated by Steve Weiner at Rennsport Systems."

Can you explain what a "US OBDII" is? Also, what is meant by the "drive block (being) disabled?

By the way, I noticed that you are in Lawrenceville NJ and I'm just outside of Philadelphia and work in Princeton. Who's doing the install for you? and where did you find the motor? Thanks.


Don

Details Please.....I fried a DME trying to hook a port up (I think I charged the "K" line..got my wires crossed (yes I am an idiot).
<br>
Guess I shouldn't have been so quick to dis the OBDII, sounds like your going to end up with a better package than any of the OBDI crowd!!

Ohhhh is that a cool car Rob. Nicely done. I love Continental Orange #107. You have a hot rod that's just retro enough that it will be a sleeper! The ricers won't know what hit them. Very very nice job. Keep us posted!

For the throttle cable, my shop cuts a cable to the correct length and fabricates a little bracket. I can take a picture for you next time I'm at the shop.

US=United States as opposed to RoW (Rest of World), or a european engine

OBDII refers to the computer system. OBD I is a more simple system and has socketed chips that are easy to swap in & out. OBD II is more complex, and you need to unsolder, program, and resolder the chip during to reprogram. This makes it more expensive and more difficult to change the computer mapping.

Drive block is the alarm system on 993s, which is incorporated into the computer. It ties into the other systems of the car, and it must be disabled in order to run the engine after a conversion.

There are many good sources for engines, but I ended up buying mine from LA Porsche due to their price, availability, and warranty. Powertech, in Rockaway, NJ, is doing the installation.

I don't know if my setup will be better than OBDI, but it will certainly be a bit different. What sort of details are you looking for?

There are several of us that would like to have a diagnostic port. AFIK only Moses has had one successfully installed and his shop apparantly doesn't wish to share the secret. You will be #2