Engine Stand Suggestions

collier · 02-09-2004, 04:35 AM

Dear Collective-List-Wisdom,

I am looking to invest in a 'quality' engine stand, and 911 engine stand adapter.

Does anyone have any experience, pictures, links, etc that they would like to share?

Do most engine stand adapters also allow for transmission mounting?

thanks,

chris

KTL · 02-09-2004, 06:32 AM

Chris,

IMO, the important thing is the engine stand adapter. This adapter lets you mount the engine correctly onto the engine stand and allows you to service the clutch & flywheel if needed. Unfortunately it's kinda expensive ~$200. Many get by just fine without the adapter. To each his own.

The engine stand itself is not that important in the sense that they're all pretty much the same- box section steel welded and bolted together with steel casters. Just make sure you get a stand with four wheels. It's more stable than the three wheel version. You should be able to get a decent universal stand from the local discount tool store (check the yellow pages) or parts store. I think I paid $80 for mine?

The P201 adapter also works on the transmission. Just need to buy some nuts, bolts and washers from the hardware store to mount the trans to the adapter.

collier · 02-09-2004, 06:37 AM

Hey Kevin,

I see (1) motor, and (2) nicely-equipped engine stands with adapters

hmmmm, planning on having a Garage Sale soon???

Thanks for the information, I think that I will go to the local Harbo Freight Tools in order to purchase the engine stand....now I want to find the Quality adapters.

Where did you purchase yours?

chris

jmz · jmz's Garage

check pelican for the adapter. I would recommend having one made if you know a good welder. something u-shaped that will accomadate a drip pan to catch all the bolts ...oil etc and with better casters than the pep-boy variety like above. I also recommend the vice that will hold the yoke in place. This allows you to spin the engine in a variety of angles. This requires a sturdy stand and a flat plate in which to secure the vise with bolts.

KTL · 02-09-2004, 07:32 AM

Chris,

I got my stand from Ray's Discount Tools in Crestwood, IL. It's just a corner store that sells all sorts of tools just like Harbor Freight does. Their stand should do just fine for occasional, once a year engine work. As long as it's nicely welded, uses quality nuts and bolts (you can replace the cheap crap with SAE Grade 8 to make you feel better) and has heavy duty steel ball bearing casters, you should be okay. I think the stands pictured there are 1000 lb. rated stands. Since the engine and trans. combo is something like 400-450 lbs., I think my el cheapo stand should last a long time?

Some of the stands will only have two swivel casters like the ones pictured. Works fine. Ones that have all solid wheels are a pain to roll around.

The vise is a cool thing but it's spendy for infrequent use. Plus, the engine is so heavy that the motor takes a bit of effort to spin it on the stand, so it stays in place even if it's not pinned or vised. The yoke comes predrilled with holes at 90 deg. spacing for the hitch pin. I don't do much engine work, but i've not needed any odd positions besides the ones already drilled at 90 deg. spacing in the yoke adapter.

collier · 02-09-2004, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KTL
Chris,

I got my stand from Ray's Discount Tools in Crestwood, IL. It's just a corner store that sells all sorts of tools just like Harbor Freight does.

Thanks for all the information BTW, I have found it very helpful.

chris

Superman · 02-09-2004, 07:39 AM

The engine alone is around 450 lbs. Still, I highly recommend getting the stand that is rated at at least 1000 lbs. Those 750-lb units are just too wimpy. Good 100-lb units can be found for WELL under $100. Under half that, in fact. The part you should consider spending bucks on is the yoke, that is specific for 911 engines.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Be careful. Apparently even something as simple as an engine tand can be made badly. A recent engine stand I used had very poor fit. It had box sections that square tubes where supposed to fit into form the corners or the upright. The box sections were way too big for the tubes so metal shims (1/8-1/4"!) had to wedged into the joints to make things fit.
-Chris