Changing to roll-up windows???

[Flyby]

I am new here, yes. I have a 1980 911sc 3.0 and live in Bellingham, WA, USA. Right now I am thinking about installing the RS style door kits, and switching to a manual window "roll-up" from electric. Does anyone know where I could find a tech article... or something to help me out?

Nat

PS of course I have other things on my mind, but I was just curious about the difficulty of this and if anyone has done it.

[Noel]

I am also curious about this.

Anyone know about how much weight savings there would be?

[techweenie]

There are several answers. First, the window lift mechanisms weigh -- I'm guessing -- 15 lbs. each. You can replace the side glass with lexan pieces and save another several lbs. per side.

Vintage race cars used a leather strap (like a belt) that came up alongside the plastic window on the inside and had holes to snap into a small hook to hold the window at various elevations.

And if you use that method, you don't need all the metal in the door inner panel that supports the regulator mechanism.

And of course, those doors have impact reinforcements that weigh a couple of lbs. per side.

All depends on how much weight you want to save.

[1980SC]

I've had the window regulator and motor out of my '80 before, and it really doesn't weight that much. Seems like a waste of time to convert to manual to me. Not to mention the hassle of needing to lean over to the other side every time you want to raise or lower the passenger window.

-Rob
1980sc

[Eric Coffey]

How about keep the power windows, but go with scratch-resistant polycarbonate (Lexan, etc.) to replace the glass, and smaller/lighter motors?

[Todd Simpson]

I've been considering going the other way, from wind up to power, in my track car no less. My roll cage is right next to the window winder, so I need to open the door to roll the window down....a bit of a pain at tolls and drive throughs.

The stock regulators weigh about 5 pounds, and the electric ones weigh a pound or two more, max. There's not much weight savings to be had here.

I currently have a leather strap system, it looks cool, but it's very difficult to get the window all the way up and sealed. You also can no longer use the "cap" trim piece at the top of the door so you will have an unfinished look to your interior. I may go to a plastic window this year, but I hear they are noisy as well and do not seal well.

Get the RS panels and keep your power windows.

[Flyby]

Okay, first of all I'd like to say thank you for all the valuable input. My prediciment is as follows. My driver side switch has failed, and the windows are very slow to roll up often needing a 120lb push just to get them down.

So here is the real question, is it EASY to switch from electric to manual... In other words, would the motor simply come out of it's bolts and the manual crank fit right up? Or would I have to get a whole new assembly? I'm not really that concerned with weight although the lexan idea sounds good. And yes the RS door panels are going with this project. Anyone have any problems with the RS "style" door panels? What do you recommend?

Thanks again

[Todd Simpson]

The window is slow probably due to worn guide channels, a conversion to manual won't change that. Silicone lube worked well in my SC with pwr windows, and lasted about a year before I needed to spray it again. Taking the door panel off the spray the inside part of the channels also helps.