Bilstein Insert into Boge Strut

[UK Carrera]

Can anyone tell me how the Boge insert is secured into the strut and also how the replacement insert is secured?

From descriptions I have read it appears that once the top nut is removed from inside the front compartment and the strut pushed out from under the wheel arch, the insert just lifts out the strut. Can't believe this is right.

I'm trying to get everything organised before I commit to replacing my dampers front and back -especially any tools, such as large sockets.

Can anyone list the tools and sizes needed for front and rear damper replacement on an 88 Carrera? Also torque settings?

What about the special Bilstein tool I see referred to.? Do I need this?

Don't want to get halfway through the job and get a surprise, such as not having the right size sockets, etc.

Many thanks.

[89911]

The Bilstein insert that fits into the BOGE front strut housing is simply that, an insert. The old Boge shock used the housing as the actual shock itself with all the oil and gut inside. Just remove the to shock nut and carefully pull the shock to out side of the wheel well. Remvoe the old top threaded portion of the housing and all the old inners. Some residual oil need to be removed from the bottom. Use some paper towels or old rags to sop it up. Place the insert in and then thread the retaining ring to the appropriate torque. I'm thinking 150ft/lbs? Can't remember the exact amount. Stick the shock back into the top strut mount and have another person help hold the housing assemble while you tighten. I found the actual tool that Bilstein sent had a tendancy to slip off and bend when you start cranking. I ended up using a large pipe wrench and some blue loctite on the threads. Tip, you may need an impact wrench to get the top nut off the shock. It has a tendency to spin when loosening.

[KTL]

The existing collar nut on the strut housing can be loosened with a big pipe wrench. The new Bilstein is secured the same way as the old Boge insert comes out. It's also a collar nut that slips over the insert and screws onto the strut housing tube.

For tightening you can use a spanner wrench or the tool that is supposed to be supplied with your new Bilstein inserts. The Bilstein ring-style crows foot tool lets you torque the collar nut to the recommended spec. Can't remember the spec., but it's stated on the piece of paper that comes with the inserts. Might be 160 ft-lbs? I know I broke my cheapo torque wrench doing my inserts, so the tightening torque is rather high. And if you don't get a Bilstein tool with your inserts? Worry not. Gotta be a hundred people here that have that tool sitting in their tool box, used once.

You might need a new lock plate under the big nut at the end of the damper shaft. I reuse the old one- it's just a bendable washer.

It's not a bad job. Do it just like you said. Remove the nut atop the shaft (counterhold the big washer with a pair of channel locks) and push the shaft thru the body so you can take it out by pivoting it outside of the fender.

You might be surprised to find a bunch of oil inside the tube when you take the damper out. Some Boge struts use the strut housing itself as the container for the damping oil. That's how my car was arranged when I did mine.

[UK Carrera]

Wow, thanks!

150/160 ft-lbs with one end of the strut still attached to the car sounds like a problem. Still, I suppose at least there's something solid to react the torque!

Don't know whether Bilstein ship the wrench in the UK - I'll have to ask the supplier I choose.

Thanks again.

Any other thoughts/experiences would be most welcome!

[CHILI]

I did the same mod. Bilsteens into Boges. I wasn't able to get the strut out and in without removing the soft brake lines first. Man, it was close, but I had to do it.

I too noticed it wanted to spin. Big PITA to get them tight. Be patient and be careful about slipping off of the top of the strut and banging up your paint on the tops of the fenders.

[stefang]

Have a can of brake cleaner handy. I was entirely unable to keep the old oil from spilling all over the brakes. You may need a breaker bar to undo the rear bottom bolt. On mine one gave way with a few love taps the other defeated my puny impact wrench and required a 2 ft breaker bar. You'll need an open end 7mm wrench or vicegrips to hold the top of the rear shock while undoing the top bolt - the bilsteins take a allen (hex) wrench.
On motronic cars you need to remove the airbox to get to the right top. Remove the afm along with it - much easier!

Have fun,
Stef

[Wil Ferch]

To tilt the front shock mounts...remnove the clip where the hard brake line merges to become the soft brake line. Adjust slightly and now you have room to tilt the shock housing to remove / re-insert the new shock. May want to add oil or antifreeze in the shock housing to about 1/2-2/3 full as a liquid buffer before you put the new insert in.
----Wil Ferch