Matt,

Is this the part you're saying looks damaged?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083426422.jpg
It most definitely is. All three of the teeth are broken off.

I still have to remove the diff cover and clean that area out as John suggested. I'm assuming that, like torqueing head bolts, there will be a pattern I should follow when putting this back on, to prevent leaking. Are there any other particular patterns I should be following for any of the other parts?

Randy

Make sure that all gasket surfaces are perfectly clean. Any old paper residue on the flat surfaces needs to be removed with a soft plastic putty knife. The new paper gaskets are not very effective. Some have used some ?copper? spray to make them seal better. I like Hylomar (non-curing compound) but I don't know if others recomend it. JW will sure give you a more experienced tip.

The differential cover has an O-ring that comes with the gasket kit. Lube is slightly and put it back together. There is no special pattern when tightening the cover from what I know so just use comon sense. I would tighten evey bolt finger tight then torque them to half their spec moving around and then to their full spec. But then again, maybe JW can chime in here.

Ingo

Got some spray gasket cleaner and also some copper spray for when the gaskets get here. While I'm waiting on my parts, I'll be doing my cleaning and prepping of surfaces. I've got a metal gasket scraper but I like your idea of using a plastic one. I think that's the way I'll go. A good prep is definitely important.

Randy

Balls
 

I have been following your progres from over here in England, you are an inspiration to us all. No job to big or small! I laughed when you did not know where the drain plug was for the engine oil, but respect is DUE. I look forward to reading the new post's every day. Next year i may attempt some thing similar to my 3.2 Carrera. You may not need some one like me telling you well done, But, WELL DONE!
Nat.

Nathan, thanks for the encouragement(..I think ;) )! Every little bit helps. I'm sure I've said this already but I can't believe how much I've learned in doing this job...and it's not even finished yet. I'm sure I've got a lot to learn before this adventure is through.

Anyway, welcome to the board. I see this is your first post. I'm honored you've chosen my thread as your opening line. You'll find loads of talent and experience here and best of all, these guys give it away! With their attitude being like that, you're absolutely right..."no job too big or small"!

When it comes time for you to tear into yours, be sure to plant yourself here and ask as many questions as you want. I certainly did! :D :D :D :D :D

Randy

Yep, that's the part I was talking about. I just didnt see it in your parts needed list, so I didnt want you to miss it. Did you get any of the Locktite? A local wrench recommended it and it used it along with spraying my gaskets. The locktite held it in place while I was installing/removing/installing/removing/installing/removing/installing the gear housing :D I just used an acid brush and lightly coated the gaskets with it.

Matt, I haven't been able to find any Loctite 574 like you mentioned. Hit a few of the big chain autoparts stores in town but no one seems to carry it. The only one I haven't tried was Pep Boys. I'll have to make a trip by there during a lunch break or something. I suppose I could order it online and still receive it by the time I get my parts.

Randy

I've been doing some cleaning up of my tranny parts and remembered this. I noticed after I took first and second gear apart. Is this space supposed to be here between these bearings?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083803123.jpg
I've fitted the shaft back into the tranny/diff and it seems to fit pretty snug, but I don't recall if this space was there before I knocked the gears off the shaft.

Randy

it moved down from the gear removal procedure. use a hammer and a stout punch/drift on the inner race to move it back. use a face mask when using a hammer and punch/chisel/drift.

Thanks, John! That's what I figured had happened. I'll slide it right up against the roller bearing.

Randy

I've been following this thread from time to time, I can't help much because I've never rebuilt a trans, but I sure do admire your "can do" attitude, Randy! That's sort of a USMC thing, isn't it? ;)

And John, you are just the absolute spirit of this board. I know how busy you are, so this is amazing!

Actually I can contribute something, Randy, you'll never find Loctite 574 over the counter at your FLAPS, I got it from our host here. Or if there is a jobber/warehouse that supplies foreign auto shops local to you, they might have some. Call a Porsche shop, they might point you where. A good substitute is Yamabond or Hondabond from any MC parts counter. Just make sure to use any of these products EXACTLY as the directions say, and don't be afraid to ask "dumb questions". Good luck! :cool:

As another riveted non-DIYer watching this thread with anxiety, all I want to say is that when it's time to have my tranny, or in fact anything else, rebuilt, I hope I'm near Seattle. Looked up your web-site, John, and it sure looks like a Porsche owner's dream. Thanks for taking the time!

A USMC thing?...perhaps. A result of the guidance and encouragement from this board?...ABSOLUTELY!!!

And John, you are just the absolute spirit of this board. I know how busy you are, so this is amazing![/QUOTE]

See my comment above!

Denis, I'll try your advice in searching for a suitable sub for 574.

Beethoven, when it comes time for some work to be done on your car...DIY!!! Even if you get to a point where you just can't figure it out (Like that would ever happen with all the talent and experience on this board!;) ), you'll most definitely have a learning experience that will help you to better understand the inner workings of your baby!

Randy

Most anything will work. I've used Loctite 518, 574 and Curil-T rubbed into the gasket before installation. If you don't use a sealant the paper gasket tends to wick transmission fluid.
518 is available at NAPA and I think the copper spray John Walker uses is also available locally.
-Chris

K+W brand coppercoat spray. with gaskets as thin as a newspaper, be careful of any sealer that is gooey. as the parts are tightened together, the stuff squeezes out like usual, but it can tear the paper and squeze it out too.

Removed all the nuts holding the diff. cover on, but it seems that this nut needs to come off for me to be able to remove the cover. Is there a trick to holding it secure so I can loosen it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083891548.jpg

Randy

Randy,

Yes, use an impact wrench for off. You need to remove the other side axle flange also.

Best,
Grady

Like Grady said, just burp it off. Torque is pretty low on the that bolt. To hold the flange while torquing the bolt I put two (old) CV bolts into the flange and use a broomstick wedged between them. You can use the same method to remove the bolt if you don't have an impact gun.
-Chris

Randy, maybe I missed it, but why are you taking the diff apart?

Randy, the bently suggested putting in 2 of the CV joint bolts and using a pry bar between them to hold it still when you go to retorque it. It's easy and safe.

Matt,

John suggested that I removed this cover so I can clean out any bits of metal that may have migrated here when 1st gear came apart.

Randy

Ahhhh, nice :) You'll have to post pics of that one since most of us have probably never seen inside of that beast!

As if you even had to ask....:D

Randy

Been playing around with a few of the broken pieces and noticed that all three teeth on the guide sleeve were broken in the exact same manner.

I can see what's wrong with everything,, no problem. I'm just trying to figure out what exactly happened...or, for that matter, which happened first, the broken sleeve, the busted dogteeth or the bent synchro band. How about, which caused which?

Here's a couple of pics of the guide sleeve showing the way the teeth were broken.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084155351.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084155395.jpg

Randy

Failure theory: First gear synchro became worn; this made it possible to more easily "beat" the synchro thereby jamming the 1st gear side sliding sleeve teeth and 1st dogteeth together while they were still moving relative to each other. This of course causes the teeth to wear and also impact loads them. Finally during a downshift the first gear dog teeth were worn enough to break off due to the impact loading. This allowed the synchro ring to spring open releasing the energizer block and a brake band. You found the energizer block on the shift fork guide plate and the brake band was bent coming out or when it got caught in something. The failure downshift may have happened successfully and the synchro system came apart during the next upshift to second. Then during the next downshift to 1st the 1st gear side teeth of operating sleeve were abruptly jammed against the 1st gear synchro ring that was sprung out. This abrupt stop overloaded and fractured the ends of the three arms of the hub or spider. It is also possible that the failure shift into first was not successful but instead the synchro ring released partway through the shift and everything broke then. Jim

Sound good to me :) Or bad...depending upon how you look at it ;)

Thanks, Jim!

That scenario seems to make sense. Sounds like it just basically beat itself up and knocked its own teeth out. I don't imagine the replacement parts will do this for quite some time! :)

Randy

It Has Begun...!
 

The circlip is off of 1st Gear. Checking the orientation of everything underneath it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084409006.jpg

1st Gear Brake Band with Anchor Block. Notice the wear marks on the lower left-hand corner of the Anchor Block.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084409103.jpg

The old set of dog teeth...sorry for the blurry shot, was kinda dark in the garage...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084409173.jpg

And the new dog teeth...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084409202.jpg

When installing the new dogteeth, can I just work them on with a hammer, using a block of wood between the hammer and the teeth? Should I heat the teeth up in the oven first...200 degrees or so?

Randy

first dress the swage on the actual gear with a fine file. it makes the toothed ring start and go on easier, and most important, less chance of deforming the inner bearing race. you should use a press of course, but a vise would probably do it. don't get it cocked as you squeeze it on. hold the gear up to the light when you're done, to be sure it's flush all the way around. they might go on easier heated, but with the press, i just do it cold, and they go on fine.

I pass a few auto-repair shops on my way home from work...I'll stop by tomorrow and see if I can't get them to do me a favor and press the teeth on.

Here's a shot of 2nd Gear for a reference.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084414654.jpg

Here is the old 2nd Gear Dogteeth. The points look a bit rounded.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084414703.jpg

And here is the new dogteeth...points are nice and sharp.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084414745.jpg

Randy

Nice work Randy. I put my dog teeth + gear in my vice with a shop towel on each side and easily pressed them on.

Well, the vice idea just wasn't working for me. Picked up a real fancy one with 360 degree swiveling 5-inch jaws, nice looking addition to the shop!

Anyway, it just wasn't gonna do the trick and I surely didn't want to mess anything up. So, I dropped them off with my local mechanic on my way to work this morning to be pressed on. He had them ready for me by lunch time.(Thanks Reggie! SmileWavy ) Picked them up and they are ready to go. No pics yet, but I'll grab a few tonight when I get back home and back into this project.

Randy

The Way They Were Meant To Be
 

First Gear:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084579252.jpg

Second Gear:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084579277.jpg

I've noticed that the point of the dogteeth is offset on first gear and centered on second gear. I'm assuming these coincide with the offset and centered points on the teeth of the slider. Is this correct? And why the difference?

Randy

The "stack-up" on First Gear, before I put the circlip on:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084580132.jpg

Randy

There was a modification to first gear at some point. I belive in model year 76 was the switchover to asymetric first gear dog teeth. Maybe the reason is that you downshift or upshift into 2nd and higher gears but hardly ever downshift into first. So first is optimized for when you put it into first from neutral. Just a guess.

Ingo

Randy,

I keep intending to chime in about this.

Please disassemble 3-4-5 syncros and inspect all the parts. You also get the chance to clean any debris out. Considering the devastation from first gear, careful inspection is warranted.

If nothing else, you can turn the syncro rings. You can also swap third gear syncro for fifth.

Let me know if you need anything else from me. I’m available.

Best,
Grady

First Gear...looking so much better than when it came out! :D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084582768.jpg

Randy

Second Gear...ready to go!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084583453.jpg

Randy

be sure to point the assymetrical teeth on the 1 and 2 shift sleeve toward 1st gear. it goes on either way, and it wouldn't be the first time that mistake was made.

Forgot this one...for a reference.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084583911.jpg

Randy