Ingo...thanks for the explanation. Believe it or not, I actually figured that something like that was the reason (Optimizing First Gear).

Grady...I'll take a look at Fifth and will flip the synchro as well. Third and Fourth, I've taken a very close look at and will do so once again before I put it back in, now that I have more of an idea what I'm looking at.
I haven't broken it apart like I did First-Second for a couple of reasons. Mainly because it really does look to be in good condition...nice sharp dogteeth, etc. Thanks!

John, as always, thanks for the advice. I was re-reading the article I refered to earlier in this thread and ran across the quote of you explaining how to smack First-Second onto a metal plate for disassembly. It's amazing how much more this all makes sense after having done it.

Randy

Comparing the New Slider (Top) and the Old Slider (Bottom)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084585375.jpg

This thing is going to be TIGHT!!! :D :D :D :D :D

Randy

The First-Second Stack-Up.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084589104.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084589123.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084589139.jpg

Tried to take a few pics so the whole setup could be seen. How does it look. Put it together piece by piece using the PET drawing Grady sent me.

Still gonna pop open the differential case to get a look before putting it all back together. Will do that tomorrow in the light of day.

Randy

Looks great Randy, she's really coming along. Isnt it funny how AFTER you've done it that it all starts to make sense? :D

It really IS funny, Matt. Last night I went to the beginning of this thread and started to re-read it. I just can't believe how much I have learned in the last couple of weeks. Had to laugh at some of the questions and statements I made at the beginning. I really had NO idea what I was doing and now, I think I could really be helpful to somebody else that was trying to do their own.
I still have a ways to go to be finished, but if it continues to go like it has, this is gonna be sweet! Looking foward to the feel of my new gears.
Hey, speaking of feeling the new gears, is there a way to test this thing out before putting the whole enchalada back into the car. I mean, a way to shift through all the gears to make sure they engage properly, and not slip into two gears at once. John made a statement earlier that if one of the detents was installed incorrectly, it would allow the tranny to slip into 2 gears at once. If I can prevent anything like this, or catch it before re-installing it, that would be great!

Randy

Been meaning to ask about this. I found this underneath the car and don't recall seeing where it came from. Does this look familiar?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084595745.jpg

Randy

Oh my god, that 'stack up' photo of first gear is just georgeous!!

(Ok., I better stop now, as I sound like a gear queen...)

Looks like a bushing from the accelerator linkage bell crank on the driver's side of the transmission but it also could be from the accelerator linkage bell crank on the top of the engine. Jim

Randy, you can go through the gears once the nose piece is on, but it's a bit tough depending upon how tight the new gears are. As far as the dentents are concerned, they are simple yet sometimes overlooked. All you have to ensure is that they are in the correct position when you assemble. The Bently shows you these so it's a no-brainer...unless you forget :D

Randy,

My reason for suggesting disassembling the syncros on 3 & 4 is to insure that some metal didn’t find its way in there and that all the parts (dogs, bands, stops) are in good condition. It’s not uncommon to find a stop chipped.

I would put the best syncro on 3rd and the next best on 4th. I would turn all three.

Another thing to inspect is the inner surface of the dog ring for any signs of a lip that touches the syncro ring. The dogs can look OK and still have a little lip that leaves a scratch ring around the syncro. Post some photos of the 3-4-5 rings.

Best,
Grady

Grady, against your better advice, I've decided to leave 3-4 alone. I understand I'm taking a chance, but at this point, that's the way I've decided to go. Except for removing it along with 1-2, and looking at it very closely, I haven't done anything with 3-4.

With that being said, here's my next question. Went to replace the shift shaft seal and that thing just does not want to come out. Am I doing something wrong? Don't want to tear anything up more than I already have.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084641267.jpg

Randy

Also, this pin that works the Reverse Switch, it fell out while I was cleaning the nose cap. I had noticed it prior to when I began cleaning, but not it's orientation where it goes into the hole. Does the smaller end go in the hole? It seems to move more freely that way.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084642256.jpg

Randy

the seal has a metal outer shell that doesn't want to come out sometimes, as you found out. pretty mush have to work on it carefully until it does. try working the shell inward with a small pointed center punch or pocket screwdriver and a hammer by catching the upper edge.
the small end of the pin goes toward the switch.

Thanks, John! When I go to put the new shift haft seal in, will I need to use a socket or something to seat it correctly?

Randy

Randy,

This image is of your 1st gear syncro stop.
Your 3-4-5 stops are smaller and slight differences otherwise.

It is not uncommon for a corner of this hardened part to break off (arrow)
and the syncro system still work perfectly.
The problem occurs when more breaks off.
The parts jam and it tends to stick in that gear.
It usually is an intermittent problem for a while.

I know it is a pain to get the circlips off but you have
the gear in your hand just now.
Considering the devastation in 1st gear,
I wouldn’t chance it.

I’ll zip it now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084645069.jpg

Best,
Grady

well, the 3/4/5 stops are actually larger than the 1 and 2 units, and i've never seen one chip like the small 1 and 2 stops do.
the seal just taps in with a smooth faced hammer.

Just a few shots before I put the Intermediate Housing back on.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084652947.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084652991.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084653044.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084653079.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084653113.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084654258.jpg

Randy

looking good. you can't install the housing until the shift sleeves are centered properly. don't assume the last guy did it right. install the pinion shaft thrust washers, 5th gear, the 5/rev hub and snug the big nut. then eyeball center on both sleeves. i'm sure you got the detent positioned in the diff housing. remember, there's another one in the intermediate housing.

Well, it went back together a lot faster than it came apart. :) The real trick is gonna be whether or not it works. It all feels good when I move it around. I can somewhat work the shift shaft and make it engage the different gears.

I think I may have gone a bit heavy with the 874, but I have to say, the orange beads look pretty cool. :)

Gonna try to hang it on the engine tomorrow and after that, back in the car it all goes. Getting anxious, for sure.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084669472.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084669486.jpg

John, I did remember the detent between the two shifters, in the diff housing. Moved it betwwen the two holes this morning with a magnet. Also, the two in the Intermediate housing were positioned correctly, according to the article by Marcesq I mentioned earlier in this thread.

Randy

Okay, is there a trick to hanging the transmission? Lining up the splines? I can get it started but it only goes on as far as to leave about a 3/4" to 1" space...like the splines on the input shaft are a little off. Is it just as simple as spinning the shaft and trying again? This tranny isn't too heavy...yet...but I'm thinking it'll get pretty heavy after trying this several times. :)

Randy

Ahhhhhhh! Perserverance is such a wonderful thing! :D :D :D :D :D

A little closer examination showed that the fork wasn't engaging right, it kept slipping behind the wheel. Once I was able to get that to work right, BAM! A little jiggling and on she went. time to tighten the nuts, install the starter and she's ready to go back in...WOOHOOOO!!!SmileWavy

Randy

All ready to go back in...getting closer and closer!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084721395.jpg

Anything I should be wary of during the re-install?

edit: I suppose now would be the time I fill the tranny case with oil? I have 4 quarts of Mobile 1 (Synthetic) and from what I've been reading, I only need to use 3. Also, Swepco 201 seems to be the brand of choice...how much of a difference would I notice? Especially given the fact that I have no idea what was in there before.

Randy

WOW! Impressive to say the least. I was feeling a bit intimidated about rebuilding my tranny, but you managed to make it look pretty easy. I have my engine on my garage floor right now, and am on my way out the door to pick up some sockets that I will be needing to take the tranny appart. Am I right in saying that I need a 41mm and a 30mm and that is all???? Please let me know, and CONGRATS on finishing that job!!!!

Randy,

you put the tranny on upside down :eek: Just kidding, awsome job. Make sure you have enough Swepco 201 oil in it and slap the package back into the car. Let us know how it shifts once you are done.

Go Randy Go!!!

CD,

You'll need two big sockets to get into the Intermediate Housing. A 27mm and a 41mm. I couldn't find a 41mm anywhere I looked so I did the math and ended up using a 1 7/16. It felt a little "sloppy" on the nut, but it did the trick just fine. I believe it was John Walker who recommended that.

If you need to get into third and fourth gear, you'll need another socket. I'm not sure of the size, but I think it was a 43mm. (You may be able to use a wrench, if you can find one that size) Matt (UTKarmann_Ghia) can tell you the size for sure. He actually has a thread here on Pelican that shows how he manufactured his own 12" deep socket for the nut on 3-4. It's pretty slick.

I can't recommend enough the importance of taking pictures EVERY step along the way. I've taken over 70 pictures since I started this job and posted pretty much all of them. Most of them were used in asking questions, but I posted several here on the chance that I needed a reference when it came time to put it back together. I've used them all.

Most importantly, read and re-read the advice you'll surely get from the guys here on Pelican. These guys are LOADED with all the information you will ever need.

Good Luck!

Randy

i would suggest not using the synthetic gear oil first off. use a GL-5 rated 85/90 like kendall. synthetics can be too slippery for this type of syncro. they rely on friction to work properly.

A few more questions...
1.) The wires for the Reverse Sensor aren't connected to a plug, they're "loose" inside their boot. Holding it in place, the wires kinda had a natural line up to be connected like this. Does it make a difference which wire plugs into each socket?

2.) Also on the Reverse Sensor...since I am hanging the Engine and Transmission as one assembly, can I connect it up now, or should I wait until I have it all hung?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084732884.jpg

3.) Is this the Upper Plug where I pour the Tranny fluid? (Right in the center of the pic)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084732948.jpg

Thanks, guys!

Randy

Randy,

no difference. It's just a simple switch so you can connect them either way. Make sure you fill the tranny with gear oil before you put the motor in. It's a lot easier rather than crawling under the car and try not to spill the stuff.

Ingo

I hope I'm not hijacking your thread here. Can you tell me how you lock the tranny into two gears at the same time to keep the shafts from spinning? I don't have the special tool to lock the input shaft.

Also, what did you use to clean your tranny and engine?

CD,

To engage 2nd and 5th at the same time, just follow the directions in this pic.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084742820.jpg
You can use this method when you put it back together and have to torque the same two nuts.

To clean my parts I used a spray bottle of stuff I got from AutoZone called Greased Lightening. Comes in a purple bottle. Spray it on and scrub it with a plastic detailing brush. Then wipe it all off with those heavy duty blue paper towels...plan on going through quite a few of those. :D

Got a few questions myself for everyone...actually, where the he!! can I find the proper tranny oil? Tried AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, even Home Depot (since they were on the way) and all anyone carries is synthetic oil, either 70-90 or 85-140. I'll stop by Automobile Atlanta tomorrow on the way to work and see what they have.

Also, isn't Swepco 201 a synthetic?

Randy

Randy, the swepco is not really available at a regular store. You really need to order it either from our host or someplace similar.

The only place locally may be at a porsche shop that might have some.

I just found your thread here. Very impressive work. I may have to do a similar task at some point. I may have to ask you now that you are experienced.:D

Ask away Jerry! I'd be glad to share whatever knowledge and experience I've gained here. That's what it's all about. While I am far from being the expert like some of these guys, I have just had all this stuff in my hands. And sometimes and extra set of hands or eyes really makes a difference.

I figured that was the case with the Swepco, but even the Kendall stuff that John Walker recommended is just not to be found. All the stores either carry a full line of synthetics or some off the wall brand called "Coastal" If anyone has heard of this company, can you fill me in?

Randy

Thanks for the explanation rcecale! Worked like a charm. I had to bolt up the tranny to the engine though to get the damn bolt off. Wow that thing was tight. I now have my tranny apart, and the output shaft apart. My 1st and 2nd syncros are shot. None of the teeth are broken off though. Now I just hope I can remember how to put that all back together once my parts come in the mail. I might do what you did and not touch the input shaft with 3rd and 4th since it looks like it's untouched. Thanks for the help.

Take a good look at the teeth. They should be very pointed and have crisp edges on them. From what I've learned, if they're rounded off, shifting can be real touchy. Since you're taking 1-2 apart, it may be a good idea to just change them out and safe you some future troubles.

Randy

any GL-5 rated gear oil will work, regardless of brand. they all have to meet S.A.E. specs.

Okay, the Swepco 201 is in. From what I have read, the proper procedure is basically just to fill the case slowly, until it starts to run out the fill hole, like this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084837618.jpg

Then, leaving the drip pan in place, let the stuff dribble out until it stops. The fill line is actually the bottom of the fill hole.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084838514.jpg

Also, from what I have read, filling the 915 case should take right around 3 quarts of oil. When I was filling this one, it took almost the entire gallon. The is about 1/2 to 1 inch of oil still in the jug. Could this extra amount be due to the case having been disassembled?

I double-checked as I was writing this and the case appears to be level.

Randy

edit: Don't be alarmed about the orange color on the case....that's just glare from the flashlight. :cool:

ooooo, you just GOTTA love the soothing blue color of Swepco 201 :D

Mine seemd to take a bit more than 3 quarts but less than 4 also.

It does have a "different" look to it, doesn't it? I mean, Anti-Freeze is typically green, or yellow, motor oil is honey brown, and ATF and Brake Fluid is typically red....but I've never seen BLUE Fluid in a car before. This project has been loaded with "Firsts" for me. :D

Randy

rcecale, from one of the pics, it looks as though you have not installed the shift-rod seal into the nose cone casting? If you havent done this yet, be sure to polish the exposed part of the shift-rod to remove any rough spots. This will help that seal live a longer life as this rod plunges as well as rotates..

Looks great!!

Chris

Actually, Chris, I have installed the shaft seal. That's a great idea to polish the shaft, it may be a bit late but I'll wipe it all down and get it cleaner. I did wipe it down while it was out of the tranny, but a little more wouldn't hurt.! :)

Randy