Can't Shift Into First

[Doug Steinel]

Let us have a poll... How many pieces do you think Randy will have left over when he is done putting it back together? Seriously, You got balls Randy, boy!

[rcecale]

Originally posted by Beethoven
Randy,
I don't know how you do it, but everyone of your photos is beautiful, almost lyrical.

Beethoven,

That's quite a compliment, coming from someone with YOUR musical background! THANKS!!!!

Seriously, though, I'm trying to do as accurate a job as I can, with clear pics because this is my instructions for getting this thing back together! Well, this along with the help of John Walker, Ingo, Matt, etc...

And Doug, hopefully, the only parts I end up with when all is said and done are the ones that are already trashed! They say that ignorance is bliss, but this honestly doesn't seem that difficult...yet! Although I do still have quite a bit to go before it's finished.

Randy

[john walker's workshop]

you should replace both 1st and 2nd press on teeth, all syncros, all brake bands, 1+2 shift sleeve, 3+4 shift sleeve. just because 2nd teeth haven't broken yet is no guarantee that they won't in the future. look at all the other teeth. hold them up to the light and look at them cross-ways and see if any are worn into a hook shape, or are getting flattened on their otherwise pionted tips. the 1+2 shift sleeve is going to be worn where the syncro rubs on the inside of it. 3+4 shift sleeve will be worn as well. when you get it off, you generally see that the inside area on each side, that first contacts the syncro ring, is worn a lot wider than when new. might as well do it right, so all your efforts produce a nice shifting trans, instead of one that's still not quite right.

[rcecale]

John,

I took a look at the shims (there were 2) under the cast iron retainer plates. The looked fine...they were flat, with no mashed edges or creases.


You also mentioned the cap that allows access to the detent between the two shift rods. How do I remove that? Do I just grip it with a pair of pliers and twist? Pry with a screwdriver?

Gonna have to re-visit my parts list and see how much more it will be to add the extra items you mentioned.

Randy

[john walker's workshop]

the caps just pry or tap off, but there's no reason to do it unless the detent gets stuck up under it and won't come down.

[ischmitz]

I bow my head in awe for Randy. For someone who couldn't tell a rear sway bar from a tranmission crossmember a couple of weeks ago Randy has done one hell of a job. I was frankly scared he would crush himself with the engine landing on top of him. Instead is he is well on his way to fix a serious problem with his tranny. That's what this board is all about. Every time I open this thread it reminds me a little of the Trueman show.

And Randy, nope, still in Taiwan. I won't be back until Friday. One more week of mayhem. Think one million scooters trying to get from point A to point B at the same time. No rules, just like Cannonball racing. Traffic is like the lottery here. If you get lucky you make it in one piece.....

Go Randy Go

[Doug Steinel]

Ingo, I lived in Taiwan for over 2 yrs and drove there. Like the start of Le Mans every day.

[ischmitz]

Where did you live? I spent the better part of a year in Hsinchu in 2000 and always drive myself. Driving is more fun here. Still no rules, drunk, speeding, against one-ways, red lights are all no issues when you are foreign. Police sees your foreign face and looks the other way. In Taipei things have changed. Policemen do speak english there. I am lucky since I can pretend to not speak english when getting pulled over. I just show my German passport and usually get away with it

Ingo

[rcecale]

Ingo, if it wasn't for the guidance I received from everyone on this board, I probably WOULD hav crushed myself! I have to really give special credit for preventing that to Jay and Josh, my local Pelicans.

And yes, I have to agree with you. I have learned so much about my car by doing this. As fas your "crossmember/sway bar" comment, I have to correct you on one thing. It wasn't "a couple of weeks ago" it was just LAST WEEK! But I've got it now...thanks a lot!

I've never been to Taiwan, but I have spent time in Thailand, racing through the streets in Tuk-Tuks. You really develop a sense of fearlessness when you ride those things and play chicken with buses and other big rigs.

Randy

[Beethoven]

Randy!!
Enough with the chatter already! We're all sitting here waiting for your next moves.
Back to work!

[Grady Clay]

Randy,

I can send you the PET6 info by fax or by e-mail as .dat files. E-mail me and let me know; gradyclay@hotmail.com.

In the interim, I’ll compile a part number list to post.

Best,
Grady

[rcecale]

I've been doing some searching for parts and ran across the following Synchro Band. What's the deal with the notches cut out of it?


Randy

[Grady Clay]

Lets see if this works.



Best,
Grady

[john walker's workshop]

that's the 2nd gear brake band. the 1st band has an offset notch, the longer side of which goes to the left if you look at it with the gap at the top. the notch holds a stop dog, different for 1st and 2nd.

[john walker's workshop]

grady, that pet stuff is copyrighted. don't want to get wayne in trouble.

[Grady Clay]

John,

Yes, and there is something called "Fair Use" and this fits within that definition.

Best,
Grady

[Grady Clay]

Randy,

The first number is reference to the diagram. The next number is the part number. It may have been superceded but any Porsche dealer can get you the current number. In “quotes” is Porsche’s description of the part. Next is my US description because occasionally something is lost in the translation.
“This is for the 1-2 gears;
- no 1st gear dogs, available from out host
44 915.302.315.01 “energizer 1st gear”
45 928.302.321.00 “stop”
37 928.302.319.08 “double brake band 1st gear” 1st gear syncro
40 915.302.311.01 “locking ring” circlip
5 999.201.138.00 ”needle cage” 1st gear needle bearing
41 930.302.401.01 “guide sleeve” 1-2 hub
42 930.302.411.02 “shifting sleeve” 1-2 sliding sleeve
- no 2nd gear dogs, available from out host
39 915.302.301.06 “synchronizer ring 1st speed” Actually 2nd gear syncro.
5 999.201.138.00 “needle cage” 2nd gear needle bearing

Now for the rest of the gears;
Some may only benefit from replacement, others may absolutely be necessary. Only careful inspection will tell.

13 911.302.411.20 “shifting sleeve” 3-4 sliding sleeve
10 911.302.301.06 “synchronizer ring” 3-5th gear syncro
plus other parts?

While some reuse these parts if they “look good”, I prefer to rebuild with these new parts every time.
51 915.302.282.00 “shoulder nut” pinion loc-nut
20 915.302.281.00 “shoulder nut” input shaft loc-nut
25 900.309.005.00 “pin 4x26” input shaft castle nut lock pin
47 915.302.268.xx “Pinion shim” adjustment shims for the pinion”
and of course the complete gasket-seal kit.

I think there is an important issue of finding any other parts that were damaged by the errant 1st gear syncro parts. These are subjective and difficult decisions where there is no “right” answer other than “replace everything.”
First, I would inspect all the gear teeth for damage. Next, I would inspect all the bearing surfaces, particularly those under 1st and 2nd free gears. Disassemble everything for inspection and cleaning – these were hardened steel parts that went through the machinery.

When cleaning, use Stoddard solvent or WD-40 at this stage. You don’t want to have any hardened and ground parts “lacquer thinner clean” and dry because they will rust.

Keep us up to date.

Best,
Grady

[UTKarmann_Ghia]

Randy, your operating sleeve hub looks as though it's been damaged -
JW, can you comment on this?

As far as the 3rd and 4th are concerned, if you choose to replace the syncros and operating sleeves, then you'll need to take that shaft to a machine shop (or porsche shop) to have them press out the bearing, then you'll need my tool for tightning the 41mm collar nut.

If you're trying to save money, the first thing to drop is the syncro for 5th. You can just flip that guy and it's probably not warn anyways (mine wasnt). Then I would say to drop the 3-4 operating sleeve, that will save you another $100. Then, I dont recommend this, you could drop the 3rd and 4th syncros.

If you're really on a budget, then I would do what I recommended to the degree you can afford. I understand what it's like to be on a budget. Good work thus far brother.

[rcecale]

Hey, Matt!

I've decided (actually, my wallet decided) to just stick with 1st and 2nd gear. 3 and 4 have behaved themselves so far, so I'm gonna chance it.

I'm going to change out the teeth, the bands, the sleeve, the hub and the brake bands. Hopefully that will get me where I need to be with 1st and 2nd.

This thread will probably slip way back from Page 1 for a while, but when my parts get here, I'll be bumping it right back to Page 1 all over again. I'm trying to document as much as I can so others can benefit from all the wisdom and experience on this board like I have. I'm still in awe at how easy you all have made this so far.

Looking back so far, I think it's kinda cool that I've come this far without once sticking my nose into a Tech Manual. I mean, technically, I've looked through Wayne's book and have read some tech articles from Pelican, but other than the exploded diagrams that have been posted, I have yet to read the manuals. All you guys are fantastic!

Randy

[UTKarmann_Ghia]

Any confirmation on the operating sleeve hub damage from JW? It sure looks to me like it's damaged pretty good and you'd hate to have it ruin your new operating sleeve at over $100.

We have not yet mentioned this, but your tranny gasket kit will come with new seals for your differencial and other parts. I used the ones which applied to my tranny and she's not leaking one drop. This is a concern when rebuilding a 915 is that it can leak. There's some things to be careful of when replacing some of those and there's a right and wrong way. When you get there, ask questions (Like I have to remind YOU of that)