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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: N/A
Posts: 351
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wise to check head stud torque during valve adjustment?
I am just finishing my first valve adjustment. Is it wise to check the head stud torque? I've learned in past if it isn't broke don't screw with it...and my engine is running fine. Comments?
Thanks, Graham
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"Penelope" 1980 SC Targa in Grand Prix White |
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Now in 993 land ...
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If you do a search, this subject has been discussed, if not beaten to death.
My conclusion was to play it safe and check the nuts, but not torque them, leave alone re-torque them. I put the allen head socket and ratchet on them and very lightly applied some torque. Mabye 5ft/lb tops. That way I knew no studs were broken - all I wanted to know. Hope this helps. George |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
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I apply a torque wrench only, and Only clockwise.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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I'm a big proponent of retorquing, or at least torquing clockwise only. Upon rebuilding my engine I found only one broken stud, but three heads were damaged due to beating against the cylinder tops. Particularly after a rebuild, put a torque wrench on them and make sure they are still correct. There will be adjustments.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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"Cheap is expensive"
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 514
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Why not? I did even though not much happened since I have raceware and they were re torqued after 2kmiles and then I did it at 10k when the engine was out.
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Irrationally exuberant
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If you are using the torque (only) method on non-corroded nuts, retorquing in the car makes some sense. Otherwise, a simple low torque "test" to see if they've come loose is all I'd feel comfortable with.
"The earlier torque-controlled method of the tightening the cylinder-head bolts has been replaced by the method of torquing by degrees of turn. The method of torquing by degrees of turn applies to repairs on all 911 Carrera engines (84 models onward)." From the Factory Carrera manual p 15-8d Two Stage tightening: Stage 1: 15Nm (11 ftlb) in specified sequence Stage 2: 1 x 90 def +/- 2 deg in same sequence From the Factory Carrera manual p 15-8d -Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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I kind of asked this same question in another thread.
1. How many shops do you think check this when adjusting valves? 2. Will pulling the engine off the car merit a differnt level of examination?
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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bump
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"Penelope" 1980 SC Targa in Grand Prix White |
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I mainly wanted to reply because we almost have the same last name, and a very rare one at that.
Anyway, why check the torque? Suspicious oil leaks? If there are no leaks in that area or other symptoms of something going wrong, perhaps it's not necessary. Charlie Kissick Montara, CA 1970 911E 1950 VW |
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