Intermediate stud pulled

[Bigtoe]

I'm past the denial phase... My engine leaks oil.
While investigating the source I noticed a rather large leak at the
intermediate shaft bearing journal case stud nut. (Whew!) Just as discussed in older threads via the search function my fastener was only finger tight and would not torque down.
I guess that the only true repair would be to split the case
and install a helicoil.

But, golly-gee fellas she's a runnin' so good!

I saw posts from Superman and Vash. Any info on the long term results of the interim fix?

Anyone else have this problem? Fixes?

Thanks

[john walker's workshop]

remove the stud and tap the hole 10x1.25 about 1" deep. install a short bolt with an aluminum sealing ring and don't worry about it until you eventually rebuild it. the hole takes the tap without further drilling, and there's really no damage done where you can't go back to a 8mm stud/washer/nut.

[Bigtoe]

Thanks JW!

I'll plug it and let it ride.

[scottb]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
remove the stud and tap the hole 10x1.25 about 1" deep. install a short bolt with an aluminum sealing ring and don't worry about it until you eventually rebuild it. the hole takes the tap without further drilling, and there's really no damage done where you can't go back to a 8mm stud/washer/nut.

Everytime I see one of JW's simple, practical yet effective solutions, I shake my head and smile.

JW, YOU ARE DA MAN!!!

[kach22i]

More notes for my Porsche degree.

[Alan Cottrill]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
remove the stud and tap the hole 10x1.25 about 1" deep. install a short bolt with an aluminum sealing ring and don't worry about it until you eventually rebuild it. the hole takes the tap without further drilling, and there's really no damage done where you can't go back to a 8mm stud/washer/nut.

I think you worked on my car back in the day. I found mine had that "mod" when I rebuild the engine. it worked like a charm. when I had it apart I installed a thread insert.

[vash]

how about a really big c-clamp? just kidding, i am still putting off the same repair. but right now, my copper silicone "booger" is doing the job. sorry toe. please, please post pictures. for my future reference.

[Ho Hum 74]

remove the stud and tap the hole 10x1.25 about 1" deep

John,

This is what I was thinking for my problem. I have the same, "finger-tight" stud but on the top of the timing chain housing (more difficult to reach). It's one of those 13mm nuts. What size tap should I get?

Thanks
Tristan

[john walker's workshop]

hard to say on that one. specifically, which stud?

[Ho Hum 74]

John,

It's the one on the top right side (passenger) of the engine. It attaches the timing chain box (not cover) to the case. It has a 13mm nut to fasten it. I guess it's the same as all the other case parting line studs.

Tristan

[john walker's workshop]

that one has a steel alignment sleeve at the parting line, so not much you can do without removing the housing except try to use a longer stud to maybe pick up a few unused threads at the bottom of the hole.

[Porsche 2]

Hi John,
I just completed repairing the intermediate bearing stud oil leak by tapping in with a M10x1.25 tap and inserting a M10x3/4" long fully threaded bolt per your suggestion, see pic. Removing the original M8 approx. 3" long stud proved very difficult as previous owner had used what looks like JB weld (grey material) with a remnant lump that would not let me remove the final approximately 1/2 inch of the stud. So I used my dremel cutter and cut the stud off leaving about 3/4" in the stud hole which I pushed back towards the bottom of the hole.
I assume that piece of stud will stay in the stud hole until one day in the future when this case is split again. Is my assumption correct?
Thanks for your attention and I am looking forward to your answer.
Cheers, Keith.

[Jack Stands]

That’s a blind hole, so that won’t go anywhere but will cause head scratching for the next person that splits the case. I had the same stripped out intermediate shaft bolt on my 2.7, and the tapped bolt worked great till the engine was rebuilt several years later.