Just bought a '70 911T! Need help!

[JNadal]

I just bought a '70 911T and will pick it up friday (hopefully). Its been sitting for 20 years and wanted to make sure this would be the right procedure to try to get the engine started.

Buy:
New batteries
Fuses
plugs

Do:
oil change
remove spark plugs and put oil into cylinders
try to turn engine
reinstall plugs
try to start once "loose"

anything else?
Ive never had to do this before.
Thanks

Oh also would a 2.4 crank & rods swap into the 2.2 engine along with a set of 2.7 cyls/pistons?
The 8.6 CR, combined with zenith carbs, open exhaust, and 2.7L seems like a good combo for 200+ HP

[Thomas Owen]

Start at the fuel tank and go back. You are very likely to find an ugly situation in the tank as well as the rest of the fuel system. It always depends on whether the car was properly 'stored' (prepared), or just shut off 20 years ago.
Good luck, and post your results.

[Jim Smolka]

Take the spark plugs out and try to turn the motor by hand. If it does not turn easily, the rings may be rusted to the cyl. Turning the motor with the rust in the cyl may cause deep scatches in the cly walls.

[JNadal]

If its "hard" to turn couldnt it be because the oil has all drained to the bottom over the last 20 years, thus causing friction when I try to turn it?
Thanks for the replies so far. Im so excited about starting this project; Friday seems so far away...

[VaSteve]

Originally posted by JNadal
Friday seems so far away...

It always does. Welcome!

[D@vid]

Keep us posted

D@vid

[limble]

There is a fogging spray that you can buy to spray down the cylinders. That provides better lubrication. Crank it by hand with the plugs out.
Pull off a gas line and if it doesn’t smell like gasoline then it hasn’t been stored properly. If it’s been sitting very long then the gas might smell like varnish, really. If that’s the case then the carbs are all gummed up and might need rebuilding. Are they Zeniths? I have documentation that will help. Not hard to do just time consuming.
Those cars tend to rust around the batteries boxes. Chances are the corrosion processes has slowed. So I would clean, prime and paint the battery boxes. Introducing battery acid to the mix will start the process again.
I would drain the tank. Getting under it is the hard part.
Once you get it going remember you have to stop it. How are the brakes? Brake seals shrink and brake fluid absorbs water rendering it useless. It’s cheap throw it out. The master cylinder might be very suspect.
Welcome to the club.
www.911t.org if we can help.
These early 911’s are great.

[JNadal]

Thanks for all the advice Limble!

Its a 1970 911T so the carbs would be Zeniths unles the PO changed them. Hopefully the engine # will match up , but Im not gonna get my hopes up.

about the battery boxes, are there replacement parts? and do they need to be welded in or can they be rivetted in?
I know a few people who can weld, but Im thinking of having them help me with the floor replacement, and I dont want to put too much of my project (or burden) on them.

I might just go buy a welding machine and do it myself

[304065]

You MUST resist the temptation to fire the car up before it's ready.

If you look on the various porsche wrecking yards, there are occasionally early cars that have had an engine fire. What often happens is somebody tries to start the car after it's been sitting, and it burns down.

Accordingly, get yourself $100 of fuel line from Pelican: the factory braided stuff, not the rubber-covered cheapo hardware store type. Then spend an entire weekend replacing the hoses, from the spot where they exit the tunnel, all the way up the port side, around the heat exchanger, into the engine compartment. This will serve the dual purpose of ensuring safety and getting rid of the gum that has no doubt formed in those hoses over 20 years.

Very good advice here about flushing the brake system, replacing the master cylinder. And before you crank the engine I would liberally oil the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand very slowly with the spark plugs removed. You don't want to get a hydraulic lock from the oil, nor use the starter motor because it will accelerate wear.

Take your time and everything will be OK!

Good luck!

[Zeke]

You don't need either battery box. Many of us have put the battery in the smuggler's box. Brakes need to be gone thru, fuel lines need to be replaced and the engine will smoke badly on start up.

There are a lot of threads here on starting a stored motor. When I got my car, it had been sitting five years which might as well have been a century. I put it up high on stands and spent 2 weeks of afternoons and weekends under, around and over it. You need to familirize your self with the car. I found at least 20 problems, any one of which could have left me stranded or worse.

Go over the car with a fine tooth comb. Just plan on removing the gas tank. It's easier that way. Guaranteed to have some rust.

[Doug Steinel]

I would have a few fuel filters on order. Change the old one out before starting. Once you get it going, I would think you should change out the fuel filter again after a short breakin period.

[vash]

like someone said above. i bet my left one, that your fuel will be the bad one. my car sat for 12 years and the gas didnt even smell like gas anymore. more like paint thinner. your brakes will be schit too. so dont go driving it, yet.

[project 911]

My 71 sat for years, and I agree with the fuel system suggestions. It was like green jello in the lines. One other thing to check is damage from mice. The top of my engine (under the shroud) was solid nest. Plugged the cooling fins and oil cooler. Look through the fan with a light. The little buggers also chewed up parts of the wiring. The first time I fired mine, something about the size of a cat blew out of the exhaust... Mouse nest.
Take it slow. Clean ground connections, etc.

[john70t]

Restoration design has replacement panels when you get around to that stage. Also check in front of rear wheel and under door rockers.

In the mean time it's worthwhile to start from the bottom up. The engine is going to be the big money so be gentle. Even if most is junk, a lot can be saved.
The cylinders are Biral- Iron!!! inside and aluminum outside- so expect them to be seized. I've heard trans fluid has good detergent properties but there's probably something better.
Everything should be gone through but imagine your paying yourself to be a mechanic, and of course treat your mechanic well.

[timz]

Mine sat for 10+ years resulting in a rusted tank and numerous clogged line problems. Critters had also gotten into every opening creating a nice little mess. The good news is that once everything had been taken care of, the 2.7 fired right up. Good luck!

[H20911]

all of the above and .......spray some kano in the cylinders not too much. turn it by hand after the kano has been in there over night (then the seadoo stuff) . the kano will loosen anything (if it is not to far gone) and the seadoo is a nice lube that is flamable to get you going.
Good luck

[TRE Cup]

Marvel Mystery Oil works fantastic on long sitting cylinders/ pistons. its available at most auto parts stores

[JNadal]

Everyone is so helpful here, I feel like I don't have to worry about running into any problems working on this project.
This is by far the best database/forum that I have found on the web, for ANY sort of car info.

Once again, thanks to all who replied