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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
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Engine lid keeps popping open :(
I can't seem to get my engine lid to stay closed for any length of time. It seems to happen after I've driven for any distance. It closes fine when I stop and push it down again. I think maybe the latch is worn because it seems to pop open when ever I'm cornering with any gusto, ie, the body flexes and the latch disengages from it's cup shaped hole.
Any ideas? Do I have to replace the latch? or can I adjust the lid. I've noticed that the engine lid is not quite level either. If I just rest the lid down (without closing it), the left side sits a few cm higher than the right, and it's not due to the rubber screw bumpers on either side. Adjusting the latch bolt in or out with a screwdriver doesn't seem to help any. Nix.
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black. 1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black. |
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Montana 911
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adjust the cable that runs the mech....pull it through nice and tight so it closes the mech, but not too far as the rod on the bottom of the lid will not go through. Tweek it as needed and then tighten it all up good. I had the same problem when I would hit pretty good bumps, but I had to fix it because the pop up tail was just not my style. =o)
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H.D. Smith 2009 997.2 S 3.8 PDK 2019 Ford Ranger Lariat FX4 Baby Raptor 2019 Can Am Renegade 1000R XC 2020 Yamaha YFZ450R |
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must be all those horses trying to escape...
![]() sorry, dont know the answer. ![]()
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Rich ![]() '86 coupe "there you are" |
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k9handler has it right.
Make sure there is no slack in the cable and adjust until snug, but not so tight that it won't open. Also...align the deck, get the rubber bumpers to an even height so the lid is in with no level difference ( a few "centimeters"?....holy cow !) --Wil
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Wil Ferch 85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten ) |
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First read the woeful threads on "help! engine lid won't open" . . .
At minimum, when you adjust the cable, make sure to get the clamp really tight. So's the cable doesn't slip from the latch leaving you locked out.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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I have this same problem, thanks for the suggestions.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Non Compos Mentis
Join Date: May 2001
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Or you can tell people it's one of those that automatically raises for downforce.
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There are also adjustments to the post that actually does the locking.
This is the post with the spring located on the engine lid. You can raise or lower the post. I had this problem on my 83SC, my engine lid poped up on the track ! can you say... Black Flagged ! |
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Thanks guys. So I tighten the cable from the release lever side? The level feels quite firm, not slack at all. I have the feeling it might be more related to my uneven engine lid. Doesn't matter how I adjust those rubber bumpers, she's still a bit off. The lid is actually warped a bit. I can see it when the lid is up and I stand back a bit.
I it was the cable, would the release lever feel loose-ish? Thanks, Nix.
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black. 1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black. |
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I had this same problem and ended up repacing both upper and lower latch mechanisms only to have the situation repeat with the new hardware. The problem was incorrect adjustment. If you look at the lower latch mechanism you will see a small hole to the right of the large middle hole. You need to move the lower "Blade catch" so you fit a nail or awl into that smaller hole, this positions the "catch" in the proper position to receive the upper mechanism. You can then tighten the cable. This mechanism was designed to "Fail open" so if the cable comes loose you don't have to do an engine drop to get the lid open. Porsche only puts a hole in something if there is a reason for a hole there.
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Oh yeah, don't forget to remove the nail or whatever you put in that hole befor you close the lid.
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Awsome, thanks for the tip John. Once the nail/awl is in the hole, I tighten the cable from the release lever side of things? How do I access the cable exactly?
THanks, Nix
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Take a look a the back (engine side) of the latch. It becomes obvious once you see it (hard to imagine without looking). I had to do the same thing to mine a few weeks ago, quick and easy adjustment and no problems since.
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I've looked at it plenty!
![]() Thanks, Nix
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Before you do anything remove the grill from the tail and/or engine lid...get the AC condensor loose or removed from the lid as well...now if you adjust it and the lid won't open, you can at least get your hand back inside to the latch to pop it free or loosen the bolts...
If you don't do this and it gets stuck you'll be yanking the muffler and bending down the engine sheet metal to get at the latch or some other insanity...
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Thanks BG, will do. Any idea where/how I access the cable?
Nix
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black. 1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black. |
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I had the same problem on a fiberglass lid that I had... turned out that the latch on the lid that goes into the one on the car was not straight (ie., not perpendicular to the surface of the engine latch). You might want to check the alignment of your latches.
Just my $0.02. |
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V9ff. What was your fix? Was the latch/bolt not straight or was the whole deck lid not straight? How did you fix it?
Can anybody help me with how/where I get at the cable? Nix
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black. 1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black. |
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the cable/ latch connection is here.
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thanks John, for some reason I had the idea I was going to have to adjust it from the release lever end of things.
Cheers, Nix
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black. 1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black. |
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