Griffith's fender condenser dimensions

[Jim Sims]

Line running forward from rear deck lid compressor:

3/8” x .049”WT (3003-0 per ASTM B483) to replace #6 hose; this is the size used for the hot, high pressure line in some of the dealer installed systems that often have only the rear deck lid condenser.

1/2” x .049 WT (3003-0 per ASTM B483) to replace #8 hose; this is the size used for the hot, high pressure line for many of the cars that have the additional front “chin” condenser.

Line from front “chin” condenser to receiver/drier:

Usually a #6 hose, so again use the 3/8” x .049 WT.

Do not use the thinner wall 3003 aluminum tubing sold for fuel lines, low pressure air systems, etc.

Rubber cushioned metal clamps to secure the tubing may be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

Braze-on aluminum “beadlock” hose fittings or braze-on aluminum barbs and separate ferrules and access to a beadlock fitting/ferrule crimping rig are required. Fluxed aluminum brazing rings or braze rod and a propane torch are required to make the tubing to fitting joints. Ensure the correct hose fitting size is selected for the car – most 911’s have standard size refrigerant hose (barrier hose comes in this standard size and is used in some of the 911 “re-hosing” kits) unless converted with the smaller OD “reduced” barrier hose.

These are the only lines I would recommend making partially out of aluminum; IMO they need rubber hose end sections to ease installation and accommodate system flex.

I would not recommend converting to metal tubing the “suction” line between the evaporator and the compressor or any of the lines between the evaporator, compressor and a ProCooler if you have one installed. The refrigerant in these lines can be below ambient temperature and you do not want it to gain heat.

I would not recommend using copper tubing as it is heavy (relative to aluminum tubing) and can have poor fatigue life when used in mobile (vibrating) applications.

In the past, I have bought tubing, braze rings, hose fittings and even a specialized propane brazing torch from Docs Blocks but they seem to be transitioning away from stocking items and fulfilling smaller size orders.

http://www.docsblocks.com/products.asp?cat=21

Another possible future source of tubing and fittings is below but their coiled 3003 aluminum tubing was out of stock for the next several months:

http://ribetautoparts.com/air-conditioning.aspx

[Jim Sims]

The 3003-0 tubing sold by Aircraft Spruce, other similar private aircraft material supply companies and a few vendors on Amazon.com is typically the version of the tubing with the thinner wall (.035" versus .049") - I would not use it for a high pressure refrigerant line.

[scottb]

Jim: I saw that after I made the post, which is why I quickly deleted it.

[scottb]

Reid:

With regard to the plate and fin evaporator...

If there's room in the smuggler's box, why go smaller with the evaporator? It seems to me that if the P&F evaporator is more efficient than the traditional serpentine unit, then a P&F evaporator that's about the same size as the serpentine evaporator it's replacing would much more effective.

I'm interested to hear your thoughts.

Thanks!

[orange911]

Kelog, with all due respect, it appears to me that you bought an existing evaporater, and welded the ends to make it work. If I was making a better product, I would have sized it for the space available, and make sure it is not a weak link - even if you are convinced it is not. If it is too big, then the compressor runs less and the car can cool in 100+ degree heat. Not sure where you live, but there are at least 3 weeks of 100 degree heat and 80% humidity here in NC. Granted, if you have an oversized evaporater and not enough condensers, then it still will not cool enough. But if you add enough hi efficiency condensers with a smaller evaporater, then you may be making the compressor work harder than it needs to. My $.02: a full size evaporater is a win-win.

[brcorp]

Given that the AC system is greatly challenged, even in less than the harshest environments, it makes sense to maintain the evaporator size while increasing it's efficiency if possible.

[wwest]

Originally Posted by philipguziec

Try typing the part number into google and seeing what comes up. Also try things like "add on condenser" and "limo condenser".

In other news, my 930 with a condenser fan and pro-cooler leaked out all the duracool after a couple of years. The setup was ice cold, and I'm getting it drawn down and recharged with duracool. Will report new results.

Did you ever post the long term results of your 930 condenser/fan combination?

Did you ever switch to R-134a?

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by niner11

Unfortunately I had to ditch the factory washer tank and the bracket that it mounts to but the trade off is more than worth it. There is still room behind the bumper to put a smaller resevoir and pump to replace the factory unit. Only had to drill two holes for the entire installation and they are barely visible. Just to add, it was about 90 here in NC today and I saw a noticeable difference in the time it took to cool down with the new oil cooler scoop installed.

For those contemplating this location for an AC condenser or an additional oil cooler, the factory high intensity washer system uses a much smaller reservoir that sits back near the driver side dash inside the frunk. Here's a link to a thread that talks a little about it, but there are others if you want to search...

Need any info for high-intensity washer conversion