Am I pulling the engine?

Lukesportsman · 08-07-2004, 09:35 PM

My clutch cable came loose while driving. After reattaching and adjusting the cable tighter and tighter the clutch doesn't want to disengage. No matter how tight I have adjusted the cable and yes the peddle end was checked and it is moving, the pressure plate is not releasing the clutch.

What could have gone on inside the bellhousing if anything? Could of the fork slipped, or the throwout bearing come off? I could swear that the arm is further foward than it should be??? Should it be foward of 90 degrees at rest with no cable actuation? What does the arm feel like when correct by hand?

Is there a way to test things?

Am I pulling the engine and looking inside the bellhousing, this will be my first Porsche pull, so I'm not looking favorable on this.

Please give me your ideas since I'm at a loss :~

Zeke · 08-07-2004, 10:58 PM

The cable came *loose* for a reason. Something has happened to your fork, pivot or TO bearing. You will need to pull the engine away from the tranny anyway, so you might as well do all the stuff you wanted to do if your engine ever was to come out.

Jim Smolka · 08-08-2004, 04:59 AM

Might be something simple, such as the a pin by the pedal cluster. However, more like a shift fork not working correctly. Might be worth having it look at by your local expert before you pull the motor.

djmcmath · 08-08-2004, 07:44 AM

Dumb question, but I have to make sure -- you say the pedal works, do you mean that when you push on the pedal, the linkage moves?

Hang on, let me dig around for a moment and see if I can't find a decent picture of what the helper spring assy ought to look like -- that could also be your problem...

Ok, here's a start: It's a tech article on clutch stuff, with a few good pics of the helper spring: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_clutch_cable/911_clutch_cable.htm

There's some good tech-book pics in this thread: Helper Spring...cant remove main arm assembly

That's all I can find, for now. My search zen must be low. Like the other's say, though, check the simple things first.

Dan

Lukesportsman · 08-08-2004, 09:01 AM

Thank you for your answers so far.
1. newer tranny with original year cable (72'): how do I determine the tranny's yearto order a new cable? Aluminum case 8:31
2. Milt, there was no lock nut or jam nut on the cable end at tranny, and it used a fab'd bracket by UncleZak.
3. Hopefully nothing "needs" done on the 3K mile punched out 2.4 RS spec engine so not really interested in pulling her out yet.
4. pedal cluster has been checked and adjusted at clevis with no slop in pedal cluster, thanks Jim
5. Dan, thanks been there read that along with Chilton, Haynes and P shop manual.

So how do I determine if the shift fork is in its proper position or working properly? Is the engine and tranny already coming back out after only 3 mos.? The only thing I can think of is some SSI's and upgraded mounts. Sure I clean off some oil, but any ideas before it gets interesting...there are no specialist in my area I'm in BFE, Indiana.

Any further ideas or guesses would be appreciated before the engine hits the concrete.

Lukesportsman · 08-08-2004, 09:10 AM

One other diagnostic tid bit. I can get the car into foward gears using the clutch pedal and synchros. It will allow me to shift, but no reverse and when the brake is applied it bogs the engine.

I don't know if that helps at all, but its all I have for now.

MotoSook · 08-08-2004, 11:13 AM

"After reattaching and adjusting the cable tighter and tighter the clutch doesn't want to disengage".....

When you can get the trans in gear, cna you drive it? Is the clutch slipping? The reverse and bogging when on the brake is another story, but one at a time. Braking=bogging...is that one of those MFI voodoo tricks with the fuel solenoid?

Lukesportsman · 08-08-2004, 12:40 PM

Sorry, if I'm confusing people. No I mean with the car on jack stands in gear and the clutch depressed ( tires should not be moving but are) if I press the brakes the engine bogs. IE there is still enough clutch drag that the clutch friction can stall engine at idle with brakes "on".

The car will "drive", but shifting would be a pain and you'd have to shut her off to go into reverse.

Where does everyone elses external fork arm on trans point in resting position? Is it 90 degrees to centerline of car? Or is it 15 or so degrees foward of this in resting position?

MotoSook · 08-08-2004, 01:11 PM

The clutch fork on my 915 is as far rearward from 90 as I can get it. The theory is to get enough throw. On my trans, it's about 5 degrees or so rearward from perpendicular of the the centerline before it hits the bell housing. .... if the helps... I wonder if you bent the fork...

Zeke · 08-08-2004, 01:41 PM

Luke, with one person in the car and you underneath, engine not running, clutch pedal all the way down, where is the fork in the hole?

The fork has to move roughly an inch or so (nat a spec from the manual) to release the pressure plate from the disc. What you are describing, that is not occuring.

Lukesportsman · 08-08-2004, 05:34 PM

Milt and Souk:
Thank you for your attention and help. Ok, with floor board out and wife pushing hard as she can there is less than an inch of foward travel. She can't quite make it hit the transmission buldge, but I bet I do when pushing on pedal. I'm not getting the 25 +/-5 mm of travel they call for in the manual.

I wouldn't know why this would be necessary, but can the c-clip be removed and the external arm repositioned backwards? If the external arm is now facing some 15 degrees foward of perpendicular, would this lead you to the idea of a bent fork? Why would've my arm bent during a drive in the country? I'm sorry that I'm not sure what fork in the whole means? Do you mean position, Milt? If so, it is right up against the transmission buldge and I could swear there are some "marks" on the aluminum.

Which number due I need to determine what year the transmission is (915/61 or the other)?

jeff1hughes · jeff1hughes's Garage

Just my 2 pennies... I don't know about the 915's but on my 901 the pivot ball for the fork broke off. It is in the housing, which of course requires full driveline removal

MotoSook · 08-09-2004, 02:42 AM

Wait!

Luke, do you have a 915?

It's a mystery to me why your arm has moved, or was it always 15 degrees forward of 90?

How about a picture of this bracket the Zak fab'ed?

The fork inside the bell housing is a piece of case steel that would likely break before it bent. If the bracket or attachement of the cable is your problem (vs the fork or TOB being damaged), you can remove the c-clip and rotate the arm rearward to get more throw out of the clutch travel.

Randy Webb · 08-09-2004, 10:27 AM

" it used a fab'd bracket by UncleZak."

I bought a trans from that guy and the case was bent - had to bend it back to get it to fit on the engine!

I'd look to that bracket to be sure it isn't the problem. Also, you might call him up and see if he will help you. Did he give you a warranty?

Good Luck.

MotoSook · 08-09-2004, 11:02 AM

Randy, got your e-mail..it's Luke's trans. Thanks for the note though.

Randy Webb · 08-09-2004, 11:28 AM

Yup - didnt realize I hit the wrong littel envelope icon until it cam back and saif my mail had been successfully sent. sorry if it wasted your time.