CIS Pressure Tester

[hbf]

The attached pics from the factory manual. I would like to make my own tester. Does anyone know what the flows are at the settings of 1, 2, and 3?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Ray Forsyth.
[IMG]c:\temp\9113.jpg[/IMG]

[MotoSook]

The picture didn't load, but hears a quick breakdown.

The CIS tester is simply a pressure gauge with a three way valve. What you want to do is close the valve so that there is no flow to the WUR to check system pressure with the pump running while the engine is shut off.

You then check cold pressure by opening that valve to allow flow to the WUR, but with the engine cold (best to do after the car has been sitting in the garage overnight in moderate ambient temps).

The final check is for warm control pressure, same set up as the cold pressure, with the engine warm (rather the WUR). The best thing to do is to connect for a cold pressure test, then start the engine (of course you'll need to make sure all fittings are not leaking). Watch as the control pressure goes from cold pressure to warm pressure. It should decrease steady until it is stabilizes, that's your warm control pressure.

[Oldporsche]

I saw one made with a tee fitting and two valves. You don't need the extra expense of the three way valves by using two ball shutoff valves.

As I remember the guy had less than $20 in the whole thing!

Good luck,
David Duffield

[MotoSook]

Absolutely agree with you there David. You can make a tester with just one valve and a tee fitting for the gauge. Even more simple, is a gauge and an old line from the fuel dist. to the WUR. Tee the gauge into the line. that'll allow you to test cold and warm pressure...to test system pressure....pinch the fuel return line downstream of the wur....rubber line jsut before it goes into hiding behind the left passenger firewall.

[Oldporsche]

Good idea Souk.

David Duffield

[hbf]

Thanks for your ideas. I have made up an instrument as suggested from bits lying about in the workshop total cost $0.

I am wanting to check the cold pressure. My car starts easily but then will not run once it has used up the gas from the cold start injector. The manual says that it is most likely the cold start pressure.

Pump pressure (before the regulator) is healthy and if I disconnect the cold start injector then nothing at all, so it seems the problem is on the delivery side of the distributor. WUR electric circuit also checks out OK.

I guess it may be that I have blown the airbox and the cold running mixture is now too lean. But I do not want to take all of that apart before I have checked all the other possibilities.

Thanks again for the suggesstions and help.