Rust Advice

DG624 · 10-12-2004, 01:41 PM

I have an '86 Carrera with some various rust problems and was wondering whether to replace entire pannels or to make a patch (body shop will do repair)? I have rust at the battery box and left front suspension point (rusted through). I also have some deep but not large (2-3 sq inches) rust at the intersection of the side pillar and the heater channel top inside the door jam on both sides. I don't want a temporary fix but a complete repair.

DG624 · 10-13-2004, 01:14 PM

What are the chances that the heater chanels will have to be replaced if rust is comming through the top of the door sill?

Glasgow 911SC · Glasgow 911SC's Garage

Any photos?

DG624 · 10-14-2004, 05:57 AM

No you will have to visualize deep rust (a 1" circle) at the joining point at the edge of the sill cover near the door pillar at the lower right corner of the door opening. I stripped off the glue for the rubber cover and found no other external rust. The bottom of the heater channel is still solid.

Does welded metal rust quicker and should it be treated? This is above the jack point so I want to fix it soon. Do they make zinc plated patches or should the entire section be replaced?

indigowhale · 10-14-2004, 07:19 AM

Check out POR15 products for rust surface treatments....I use them, they are great.

rob justice · rob justice's Garage

Remember the problem with rust is what lies beneath - usually (almost always) it gets worse than first expected - sorry for that!!!!

DG624 · 10-15-2004, 05:03 AM

I was going to have the sill repaired but didn't want to repeat this in several years. Will a patch do the job or should the entire channel be replaced?

rob justice · rob justice's Garage

Repairing is ok if you can get it sealed from behind - ie wax type rust inhibitor.
If not - it will rust through again pretty quickly.

DG624 · 10-15-2004, 06:40 AM

Rob, what about zinc plating for all repair parts? I think the repaired parts tend to rust more quickly. I also have rust around the battery and left front suspension point. This is much worse. I was told it could be patched but maybe an entire front panel would be best.

Zeke · 10-15-2004, 07:07 AM

Welds od rust almost immediately. You can use plated parts, but you can't plate the welds. Hence,the POR 15 and Waxoyl for the areas you can't access after repair.

If one side of the front suspesnion pan is rusted thru, the whole side of the pan should be replaced. However, the front pan is sold complete and it is not that much more work to replace it all. Welded seams near the a-arm bolt up could be under extra stress due to the torsion bars. the whole piece along with the corresponding gas tank support (which, BTW, gives two piece strength to the pan and therefore misnamed, IMHO) for about $200. That's not much money compared to the labor involved.

Search my name and rust. You will see some front work and "heater tube" work, Those are actually called the longitudinals. There are pieces availble for all these areas. Search Pelican sheet metal for them.

rob justice · rob justice's Garage

When welding in zinc coated plates - you need to grind off the zinc plating to allow welding (mig) - if you don't, the welding is very difficult and of poor quality. Also the zinc fumes are very poisionous.
Check out Zeke's recent postings - notice he's been in around the battery tray big style.

golfnow · 10-15-2004, 08:58 AM

look at this YIKES - 911 Restoration Pics, WARNING!

DG624 · 10-15-2004, 10:35 AM

The sills looked pretty bad on "aircooledexcellence" car...is that fixable? I am getting worried about what is underneath. Both of my sills have surface rust at the same place on the flat area before the pillar. Looks difficult and expensive. I think some fender linner protection is a worthwhile investment especially if you drive in winter or on wet streets.

I have used some small inner linners for the rear that work very well and only cost $50. Plastic mud guards that block most of the spray to the rear and almost all underneath. About 12X16" and attached to the fender support with metal screws. These drastically reduce dirt and spray into the tail light area.

golfnow · 10-15-2004, 10:57 AM

Mine was like what you are describing, just a little rust bubble in the back corner.
I put my car on a lift and used a pressure washer to clean the under side up a bit
before I started winter projects, in that area a ton of dirt came out, unfortunately
I walked around and noticed dirt and water coming out from under the door,

I blew a hole right through the sill.
When you get in side it’s ugly mine wasn’t as bad as aircooledexcellence car
But it wasn’t much better.

DG624 · 10-15-2004, 12:05 PM

I will get some pictures if I can. I guess driving in Ohio winters is a bad move. I have tried not to drive too much and clean up the salt if I do drive. The best solution seems to be don't drive in snow.

The inner mud guards seem to work very well for the back. I removed the rear tail light and found a load of dust and gravel. These plastic panels weigh less than 6 ozs. but protect the entire fender well above the oil tank. I now need some thing for the front.

DG624 · 05-26-2006, 12:49 PM

I am having my front pan and fuel tank support replaced. Restoration Design parts. I will also have to replace the heater channels fixed along with the jack support. Has anyone had this doe and what was the cost or how many hours?