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-   -   3.2 to 3.5 - Part II (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/186906-3-2-3-5-part-ii.html)

Dennis Kalma 11-17-2004 06:18 PM

Wow, great engine and an inspiration to us all....especially since doing a rebuild similar to yours is in the plan for my '89.

A favour to ask, as I am considering putting a 6 speed G50 in my '89 (bought the car without engine and transmission, so I have a choice)....how much space between the nose piece of your transmission and the torsion tube? I have heard there is about 2"....can you confirm?

Thanks

Dennis

Jeff Alton 11-17-2004 07:29 PM

Well, its about time!! Just kidding. Glad that you got it in and it fired right up! Great job.

Jeff

JP911 11-17-2004 07:54 PM

Congrats Ralph! Great work and so clean...time to go dirty it up a bit. That coil mount is trick. I'll have to ask you about that when I get around to building my motor.

randywebb 11-17-2004 08:20 PM

Do you have a pic of how that coil holder itself mounts to the car?

911teo 11-18-2004 05:05 AM

Fantastic write up. Must be a great feeling to have accomplished what you set out to do. Looks like a great engine. I am looking fwd to the first driving report!

JeremyD 11-18-2004 05:54 AM

Congrats Ralph - you should be very proud of your accomplishment. Sweet motor

armandodiaz 11-18-2004 11:44 AM

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Highfield 11-18-2004 11:58 AM

Ralph,

I am really none technical, but have thoroughly enjoyed following the write up from over here in the UK. Let us know how the car drives. Thank you.

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 04:53 PM

WOW! Thanks for the comments and questions guys. Good to see that the 6,000+ views on this thread currently wasn't me looking at it 5,999 times!

I guess I'll try and answer the questions in order. I don't know how to incorporate/highlight various questions from people into one post so I'll do it individually.

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 84porsche
Ralph,

Looks awesome, congratulations. Now you can make the next Porsche run except you will be the lead car this time to make up for the ones you missed.


Chris

Chris, yes I plan to make the next South OC run and will gladly lead provided that you loan me your V1. Deal?

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig911
WAY TO GO! What a feeling. It is a beauty!
So, I must ask......when is she due to go to the dyno?

Craig, first off let me tell you that I'm glad you survived your little "shunt" a couple of weeks.

Not going to dyno the motor until it has a few miles on it. Don't know whether I will wait till 1,000 miles or not but it will be closer to that number.

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
Way to go Ralph!

Maybe it's the angle or something, but I don't see the pull knobs on your splitter. I put rubber hoses around the shafts to keep them from accidently being pushed in (off) by stuff/feet behind the seat.
-Crhis

Chris, you are a sharp guy. You won't see the pull knobs because they aren't there. I guess I have the "new and improved" version.:rolleyes:

Andial stopped putting the pull knobs on them awhile back because they didn't feel the need to do so any longer. The knobs simply allowed you to test individually. I asked Arnold (the AN in ANDIAL) about it when I bought mine months ago because I remembered the unit having them when I worked there years ago. He said they have had very few problems with the splitter unit and customers don't think the feature is absolutely necessary. They still send the old instructions though which mentions the pull knobs.

Free plug for Chris, any of you 3.2L Motronic guys looking to twin-plug your motor Chris has an Andial signal splitter that he would like to sell. PM him for pricing and info.

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dennis Kalma
A favour to ask, as I am considering putting a 6 speed G50 in my '89 (bought the car without engine and transmission, so I have a choice)....how much space between the nose piece of your transmission and the torsion tube? I have heard there is about 2"....can you confirm?

Thanks

Dennis

Dennis,

It is always nice to have a clean sheet of paper to work with, and with no motor and trans you have alot of options to explore.

There appears to be a bit of room between the torsion tube and nosecone of the transaxle, but I don't know if it is 2". I took a couple of pics but I don't think you can see much from them so they're not even worth posting.

I would contact Jim Patrick at Patrick Motorsports in Phoenix, he seems to have a pretty good handle on the gearbox conversions for different models and should be able to tell you what is easily possible and what would take extensive fabrication.

Sorry I can't be of much more help.

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by randywebb
Do you have a pic of how that coil holder itself mounts to the car?
Randy,

Yes I do. Steve's coil bracket uses the existing studs in the body that the stock single coil bracket attaches to. Instead of the stock single coil being mounted vertically, the dual coils now mount horizontally. I used 2 more 962 jet nuts to secure the bracket.
:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100830356.jpg

Hope that picture helps. I can take more if needed!

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 05:40 PM

FIRST DRIVE!

Well, I was really looking forward to the maiden voyage today. The car needed a few things buttoned up before being "road worthy" and I came in during my lunch hour just as the car was being taken off the hoist. Perfect timing.

I booted Dwain out of the driver's seat (he has enough seat time in his 993tt and Cup Car) and said the first drive is mine (but I took my cell phone just in case!:) ) Drove the car for about 5 miles in a big loop and holy crap it is a night and day difference.

My biggest complaint with the 3.2L Carrera has always been the low and mid ranges, as nothing much happened below 4,000 rpm. With Steve Wong's chip, Dansk pre-muffler and final muffler, it was better but I still was left wanting. No more.

This motor really makes nice torque in the bottom end and mid-range, it is a real pleasure to drive. Didn't take it above 5,000 rpm but it gets there in a hurry! Ran it up to 4th gear (shifting at 5,000) on a nice straight road and the run seems effortless. I think the upper end to 6,800 rpm will be just fine as well.

Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't consider it "scary fast" and I'm not going to embellish and say the car will go sideways if I stand on it in any gear. It's still only 270-280 horsepower (guesstimate for right now) in a 2880 lb car with a full tank of gas.

Very, very smooth and progressive power, this is going to be a fun car to drive! The way I look at it, the car has just been updated from 1988 to 2004 with the power increase.

The exhaust sounds sinister for lack of a better word. Not overly loud and obnoxious, but purposeful. It will definitely turn some heads going by I think. A little bit of a lope at idle as well with the 20/21 cams, the 964 cams are a bit smoother but I like it.

Would I do it again? If the first drive was any indication, then in a heartbeat!:D

Here are a couple of pics of the car (dusty from from sitting 10 weeks) before the detailer gets his mitts on it tomorrow:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100831739.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100831774.jpg

The popular slogan "there is no substitute for cubic inches" is certainly valid. A 3.4/3.5/3.6 motor makes for a nice package in an earlier car.

Ralph

Jeff Alton 11-18-2004 07:50 PM

Very cool, I am glad you got a drive in. Were you a little nervous?!?! I remember the first few miles on my new HP 3.2 back in May. I am going to have to head to the fridge and pull out a couple of GI,s and drink mine ... and ... well drink yours too!!! Great job, I hope to see it some time.

Cheers, Jeff

Carrera3.5L 11-18-2004 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by catca
Very cool, I am glad you got a drive in. Were you a little nervous?!?! I remember the first few miles on my new HP 3.2 back in May. I am going to have to head to the fridge and pull out a couple of GI,s and drink mine ... and ... well drink yours too!!! Great job, I hope to see it some time.

Cheers, Jeff

Nervous? Nah. Only was nervous when the motor was first started, hoping I wouldn't hear a rod knock or see fuel spraying all over the place.

Drink a GI for me, I'm eating some Indian Candy from my Charlottes fishing trip at least.:)

Ralph

randywebb 11-18-2004 08:04 PM

Thx for the bracket photo - I am actually looking for a way to mount 2 coils horizontally on a plate (on their sides). Not sure if I could adapt that one.

89turbocabmike 11-18-2004 10:03 PM

Great job Ralph! I've really enjoyed this thread and have learned alot. Can't wait for the next OC run.

SteveM911 11-19-2004 12:44 AM

Great write up Ralph!! Looks a really impressive job you have done. Documenting this experience has been a real bonus to me to see whats involved in a good engine build. Much appreciated.
Steve

Wayne 962 11-22-2004 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Carrera3.5L
I know some of you are thinking why didn't the rods get installed before the case was sealed? Answer is personal preference. Installing the rods before the case is sealed is obviously easier because you have no problem with space but with the case sealed you have to do it through the cylinder bore in the case which leaves less room to play with. My buddy Steve (formerly of PMNA) prefers to do it this way but says it really doesn't matter.
Hmmm. One of the tests is the "drop rod" test where you let a rod drop freely after it's assembled. If there's no friction, it will rotate freely on the crank. If there's a hangup somewhere, it will become obvious when you perform this simple test. Note, this is a test you can't do if you assemble the rods with the crank inside the case.

-Wayne

Bill Verburg 11-22-2004 04:00 PM

Congratulations Ralph!, looks great!

Carrera3.5L 11-22-2004 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
Hmmm. One of the tests is the "drop rod" test where you let a rod drop freely after it's assembled. If there's no friction, it will rotate freely on the crank. If there's a hangup somewhere, it will become obvious when you perform this simple test. Note, this is a test you can't do if you assemble the rods with the crank inside the case.

-Wayne

Wayne, you are correct and yes that is an easy check. In this instance, the crank was perfectly fine and micropolished by Ollie's and then measured by Steve when it was returned to us. Likewise with the rods. We bolted them together after they were reconditioned by Ollie's and used a bore gauge to check that they measured correctly all the way around. Please don't get the impression that we simply slapped it all together without double checking Ollie's work. After confirming that the measurements were correct, we had no reason to believe there would be a problem.

FWIW, I did mention both of your books in one of my articles submitted to European Car Magazine. Although in my particular case I didn't really have a need to reference them, the rebuild book is a great tool for someone like me who can build an engine but is not a professional. I WOULD have used it as a guide if I was by my lonesome. I figured mentioning them in one of the articles was the least I can do for the opportunity to gather and share information on your forum. :)

Ralph

Carrera3.5L 11-22-2004 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bill Verburg
Congratulations Ralph!, looks great!
Thanks Bill, I am having a hard time wiping the smile off my face. I put a couple of hundred of miles on the motor this weekend, and have taken it up to 6,500 a few times. The motor just gets stronger as the revs build. No need to downshift, just nail the throttle in any gear and the torque is there, right now! A HUGE difference from the 3.2L.

I've driven Steve's 3.4L twin-plug in his '85 Targa, and my car feels stronger everywhere (IMO). The car weights are fairly comparable (his would be lighter in any event), so I guess when we dyno both in the coming weeks we'll find out if the apparent horsepower difference is psychological or real.

There is a C5 Vette that I am just dying to test out one of these days. I'm not much for street racing, but this guy drives like a complete jerk because of the high horsepower car he has. I see him 3-4 days a week to/from work and he is always going as fast as he can and changing from one lane to the next and cutting people off. I've watched him race SS Camaro's, WRX's, EVO 8's, M3's, station wagons, mini-vans you name it at stoplights. He's wanted to have a go with me a few times in the past as well, but I didn't think I stood a chance with the mildly modified 3.2L and politely declined.

There will come an opportunity...;) It may be my one and only "street" race as I don't condone it. I just want to try and put him down a link on the food chain. The road is straight for about a mile and a half and has no intersections for cars to enter or law enforcement to hide.

Ralph

Jack Olsen 11-22-2004 08:50 PM

Awesome! Congratulations!

Now, the good doctor prescribes:

Track Day. Willow Springs International Raceway. December 7th.

Bring it out. :cool:

JeremyD 12-22-2004 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Carrera3.5L

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098156661.jpg

The cylinder CC is 71ml. We can start to plug the numbers into the formula. Not the result I was expecting, it looks like the measured CR is going to be 9.6:1, alot lower then the claimed 10.3:1 of this piston and cylinder set.:(

Steve had the same problem with his 3.4L motor. He ended up with 9.2:1 initially (same 10.3:1 was quoted) but took some more material off the heads until he settled for 9.4:1. He also says that it is common for the CR to be alot lower then advertised. I can't speak for other's Porsche motors, but the water-cooled VW motors are notorius for having inflated CR's. The Mk2 GTI's 1.8L were rated 10:1 from the factory and were more like 9.2:1. Same with Mk 3 GTI 2.0L's, stated CR was 10.5:1 but in reality more like 9.5:1.

Ralph

I know this is an older thread (though I have seen older ones resurrected) but at a 9.4:1 CR would it really be necessary to twin plug an engine if you had access to 93 octane gas?

randywebb 12-22-2004 03:28 PM

I think you'd be on the borderline. Also, you want to have asafety factor if a station slips you some lower than 95 octane gas, if carbon buildup changes the CR or creates nuclei for pre-ignition, etc. ....

Thanks for reviving the thread - all the pics are beautiful. I esp. like the bronze colored acorn nuts on the thru-bolts against the Al color of the case.

78P930 06-24-2009 08:33 AM

Your passenger side exhaust gaskets are oriented the wrong way in the picture.SmileWavy

ShakinJoe 06-24-2009 06:54 PM

subd
 
subd

CBRacerX 06-24-2009 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78P930 (Post 4741059)
Your passenger side exhaust gaskets are oriented the wrong way in the picture.SmileWavy

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShakinJoe (Post 4742449)
subd

This thread ended in 2004...

78P930 06-25-2009 03:44 AM

Couldn't help myself.

renders 01-05-2010 05:21 PM

Where can I get this fiberglass RSR bracket?

renders 02-07-2010 06:21 PM

Dual Coil Bracket
 
Where is this dual coil bracket available? It looks really nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carrera3.5L (Post 1618695)
Well, today was the day! Get the motor back in the car and see if she will actually start!

Here are a couple of "finished" pics of the motor on the engine stand last night with the RSR heater block-off and wire separators mounted:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742747.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742794.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742820.jpg


Here is Steve's beautiful dual coil bracket that he makes, anodized red in this case. Scroll down for pics of it installed in the engine compartment:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742887.jpg


I transported the motor from Steve's shop back to Vision Motorsports for the install, a distance of about 1/2 mile. Here are some selected pics from today:

Wiring the Andial Signal Splitter with the DME unit:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743010.jpg


Motor and trans on the jack getting ready to install:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743087.jpg


Engine compartment detailed and ready to accept the motor:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743174.jpg


Motor and trans installed!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743253.jpg


Everything connected & double checked just prior to start-up:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743380.jpg


I added 10 quarts of oil while Vision tech Mike Olsen reconnected the battery and hooked up the charger. Mike pulled the DME relay out and with one final check it was time to crank her over to get some oil pressure. Cranked for 20-30 seconds while oil pressure built up and now it was time to do it for real!

With the DME relay connected, Mike cranked her over for about 5-10 seconds and the motor coughed, sputtered, smoked and died. Mike turned the key again and almost instantaneously the motor roared to life!

At approximately 4:15 p.m., a rebuilt 3.5L twin-plug motor entered the world. She sounds sweet, gave me goose bumps. Actually a heck of alot quieter then I thought with headers and a dual out muffler, it's not much different then the prior set-up.

Mike immediately set the rpm for 2,000 rpm and left it there for 5-10 minutes while I hooted and hollered around the shop. Then he went to 3,000 rpm for another 5-10 minutes. Then sup to 4,000 rpm for another 5-10 minutes. She was purring like a kitten. I checked up top for fuel line leaks (none) and then took a look underneath for oil leaks with a flashlight and couldn't find anything. Waited till the oil thermostat opened up and then topped up the oil with another 2.5 quarts when the motor finally came back down to idle.

Steve came over and the 4 of us (Steve, Mike, Dwain and myself) had a couple of beers while the motor ran at varying rpm's. While I was at the back of the car playing with the throttle, one of the Vision guys snuck undereath of the car from the front with an oil can and sprayed a bunch of oil at my feet and then yelled to shut it off 'cause she's pissing like a sieve. I probably would have bought it if it wasn't the oldest trick in the book, hell I did it to people while at Andial.

Everything just needs to be tidied up a bit tomorrow (seat reinstalled, clean up the wiring, install the rear swaybar, etc) and will drive the car for the first time tomorrow and probably bring it home Friday afternoon.

Ralph


88-diamondblue 02-07-2010 07:47 PM

You can find them here. 911Chips.com - Porsche 911 Performance Engine Components

Bergo 01-13-2016 08:06 AM

Reading through the thread, I'm sorry to bump an old one, but had to laugh at how things have changed:

Quote:

So how much does twin-plugging a normally aspirated 3.2L Motronic motor cost? Well, here is a breakdown of what I paid. YRMV:

(1) Used 993 Distributor (ebay) - $210.00
(2) New Distributor Caps - $85.00
(2) New Distributor Rotors - $35.00
(1) New Distributor Drive Belt - $6.00
(1) New Distributor Vent Kit - $7.50
(1) New Bosch Second Coil - $45.00
(1) New ANDIAL Signal Splitter - $525.00
(6) New RSR Lower Plug Hold-Down Clips - $45.00
(12) New Spark Plugs - $15.00
Twin Plug Heads & Lower Valve Covers - $290.00
Miscellaneous (rubber grommets, wire separators, etc) - $50.00

Total: $1,313.50

KTL 01-13-2016 09:19 AM

The only thing that's a big change in today's market is finding a good used 964 or 993 twin distributor. They've gotten a bit more expensive but you can still find one for $400 to $500. I'd recommend installing a new belt in a used distributor too.

You can get good quality Beru brand parts (original supplier to Porsche) for the prices listed above. Check it out in Pelican's parts catalog. Well, actually the new Bosch coils in the silver can are sorta suspect and i'd avoid those. So you're better off getting a couple of used coils.

Andial splitter is no longer made as far as I know. But there's guys who've come up with alternatives to that special part.

You can get your heads and valve covers TP'd for around that same price listed above. Contact cgarr at G2 Performance here on the forums. He does a fantastic job machining heads for very reasonable prices.

scarceller 01-20-2016 10:25 AM

I have a solution to the Andial Splitter running already, see this prototype work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4EJXtj_ZtM

This solution requires you to source the 964 coils with bracket and the ignition modules mounted on the bracket. I then create a custom harness for this setup with custom circuitry built into the harness. When you get the harness it's a simple 4 wire hookup done in the engine bay and you cut no factory wires at all.

You need to buy a set like this 964 complete set: coils, bracket with modules:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231291655456

I've been asked for this type solution a few times now and I'm building it for a customer but it's easily rebuild-able. On a side note: I've had 2 Andial Splitters in hand and I know how that circuitry works. My new circuitry is more robust than what Andial had.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 8956022)
Andial splitter is no longer made as far as I know. But there's guys who've come up with alternatives to that special part.


KTL 01-20-2016 11:26 AM

You can pencil me in for one of those twin plug signal harnesses Sal. Going to be needing one for a 3.2 to 3.4 modification in my '86

Thanks,
Kevin

scarceller 01-20-2016 11:33 AM

Kevin,

I also have the complete MAF setup for that conversion as well. Like in this setup I did earlier last year:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/871561-1985-3-4-build-using-maf-279-56-hp-237-63-rwhp.html
That setup used the Andial Splitter but now I have that setup with the much simpler twin coil approach. You keep the Motronic and all the factory harnesses are untouched. It's a drop in solution to upgrading to twin plug.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 8965464)
You can pencil me in for one of those twin plug signal harnesses Sal. Going to be needing one for a 3.2 to 3.4 modification in my '86

Thanks,
Kevin


mysocal911 01-21-2016 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scarceller (Post 8965379)
This solution requires you to source the 964 coils with bracket and the ignition modules mounted on the bracket. I then create a custom harness for this setup with custom circuitry built into the harness. When you get the harness it's a simple 4 wire hookup done in the engine bay and you cut no factory wires at all.

You need to buy a set like this 964 complete set: coils, bracket with modules:
Porsche 911 964 Bosch Ignition Coil Pack Part 0227100124 | eBay

Actually, this approach (diagram) was posted many years ago on the Pelican Parts forum, i.e. old news, just do a search!


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