Does anyone sell a fixture for drilling broken exhaust studs

[john walker's workshop]

some folks just don't get it.

[9dreizig]

Would anyone like to investigate having some of these tool for loan/rent ? We could do deposits with pay pal and refund when returned ? I'm sure if someone wanted to manage it it would be a real winner.. There's a never ending list of tools to buy and only use once.

[911mot]

You can do it with an electric drill and cobalt drill bits.
Centre punch the broken stud and drill a pilot hole exactly as you can down the middle. Work up in drill sizes going 0.5mm at a time, dipping the bit in oil at regular intervals. Take your time. The slowest possible drill speed is needed. Hold the drill firmly as it can bind now and then. If you get it right you can actually see the thread appear as you drill. Thats when its time to pick it out. I used a thread restorer after that and it worked a charm.
However it wasn't all plain sailing. One of them I screwed up and had to helicoil.
Pilot hole:

[Tim Hancock]

Originally posted by Tim Hancock
I made mine out of a piece of scrap steel and some 1/2-13 short bolts. Drill the center out of a few bolts which form the drill guide bushings (small one for pilot then larger up to helicoil tap drill size).
Make a center plug out of whatever to match the id of your port and countersink it and attach it to the bar with a flathead screw.
Drill an 8mm or 5/16" hole on the other end to slip over an existing stud. This can all be made on a simple drill press, but a lathe is helpful to drill the 1/2-13 drill "bushing" bolts.

Drophit, is this the one you were thinking of? When this thread first got going, after posting my simple crude DIY solution, someone asked if I could make some of these and before I could respond, someone else agreed to make a tool. If you read about and look at mine and you have a drill press minimum, you can make something that will work. I could make some of these, but the other guy has invested a ton of time into his "professional version" and by the time I made the "improved for sale" version I was thinking of, it would probably cost nearly what the other guy's unit costs. Any cheaper and it would not be worth my while.

I will check back on this thread later this weekend and maybe I can hook you up with something to get you out of your bind. I am a special machine designer by day and I have built EVERY tool I needed to overhaul my 3.0 last summer including an engine yoke, so obviously one does not have to blow megabucks on one time use tools if you are mechanically savvy.

Guys like John Walker use these special use tools almost on a daily basis and they obviously need to have the best quality and easy to use tools in order to be efficient. This does not mean that you cannot do a good job with homemade tools, it just will take you a bit longer.

[drophit]

well, how did the first guy make his work is my only question?

[A Quiet Boom]

Originally posted by 9dreizig
Would anyone like to investigate having some of these tool for loan/rent ? We could do deposits with pay pal and refund when returned ? I'm sure if someone wanted to manage it it would be a real winner.. There's a never ending list of tools to buy and only use once.

I'll state for the record that I have absolutely no problem with this. I'm not making these to get wealthy, just to help out fellow 911 owners and make a few dollars for my time. That's also why I prefer to sell the pro tool as a group of friends could get together on a purchase or one guy could buy it and loan it to a friend(s) etc.

I agree there may be cheaper ways to solve this problem, my tool is modeled after the tool that John Walker has used professionally for some time. It's for the professional or for the hobbiest who doesn't have the skills or equipment to make up their own tool.

I need to give John Walker a lot of credit here, he was instrumental in getting me actual port dimensions as well as provided lot's of suggestions along the way, without his help I never would have produced a quality tool.

[A Quiet Boom]

Originally posted by drophit
well, how did the first guy make his work is my only question?

If you are refering to the aluminum tool shown earlier in the thread, that is a picture of John Walker's original tool made by a machinist. At his suggestion later in the thread I decided to make the tool out of steel for durability. The cost difference between steel and aluminum somewhat offsets the difference in machine time. The inserts as JW states need to be a tight fit into the pocket and the tool should fit tight into the port.

[RoninLB]

I'm a big fan of diy on most things. Although some times it just doesn't make sense. Especially after eyeballing the tool at Hershey.

Quiet Boom's tool is an inexpensive home run.

[drophit]

gotcha i prob will need one i guess.... as i have no drill press etc.

$110 is the cost right well lemmee know how to pay ya

Z
87 3.2 carrera

[Jim Williams]

Guys,

Sorry to join this thread so late, but it started way before I joined the Pelican BBS. I'm kinda surprised no one had mentioned this tool (shown in the photos below). I've had this in my tool box for a number of years, and used it several times in the interim. It also came with the drills and taps to install the proper sized Time-Serts. The tool is adjustable over the stud to be drilled out and has three different size pilot shanks which are locked into place with a locking screw. The studs are adjusted down into and against the sides of the port to help position the fixture over the stud, and along with a good remaining stud on the other side (you didn't shear both the studs off, did you!?), a nut is used to complete locking the fixture in position.

I've tried to remember who I ordered this from, but it has been too long. It almost seems like it might have been EBS, but I can't be sure. The paper instructions I still have, and it has a phone number, but I doubt it's any good these days. I haven't seen these advertised in a good while.

[drophit]

HUm ok what does it cost? Looks like it is universal... Can you post the #?

[Jim Williams]

Z,

I have no remembrance of what I paid for this tool, it's been on the order of at least 10 years ago. As a wild a$$ guess, maybe $125, which would have included the Time-Sert tools and 6 inserts. At the top of the 4-page instruction sheet is "Tool No. AUT 111", and at the bottom of the first page is "Technical assistance phone: (303) 781-1140". Nothing on any of the pages to indicate who made it, no address.

Wish I had more info.

[Jim Williams]

Guys,

Sorry to join this thread so late, but it started way before I joined the Pelican BBS. I'm kinda surprised no one had mentioned this tool (shown in the photos below). I've had this in my tool box for a number of years, and used it several times in the interim. It also came with the drills and taps to install the proper sized Time-Serts. The tool is adjustable over the stud to be drilled out and has three different size pilot shanks which are locked into place with a locking screw. The studs are adjusted down into and against the sides of the port to help position the fixture over the stud, and along with a good remaining stud on the other side (you didn't shear both the studs off, did you!?), a nut is used to complete locking the fixture in position.

I've tried to remember who I ordered this from, but it has been too long. It almost seems like it might have been EBS, but I can't be sure. The paper instructions I still have, and it has a phone number, but I doubt it's any good these days. I haven't seen these advertised in a good while.

[A Quiet Boom]

Jim,


Very interesting tool there. I see a couple of small problems though. First it seems to require "eyeballing" to get centered over the stud, shouldn't be too hard but may be a problem for some, especially when lying upside down under the car. Second, while it cost $125 or so ten years ago I wouldn't be surprised to hear it's much more expensive these days. That thing has a lot of machine work involved and no way to really automate production without a modern 5-axis VMC. Of course my tool isn't all CNC either as I hand finish the bushing hole as well as my disk inserts.

There was a tool like that mentioned earlier in the thread with the name of the company that made them but the post stated that they'd seen the tool in the '70's.

The real advantage of the John Walker design is the removeable disks for different heads and since the disks would be relatively striaght forward to make on a lathe just about any machine shop could whip up a custom one if need be.

drophit-

If you decide you would like a tool feel free to email me at rsr911@neo.rr.com If at all possible please include an actual measurement of your port for my database otherwise engine build year will suffice.

[Jim Williams]

First, I apologize for the double posting of photos... Can't figure out how that happened.

Second, I re-read through the whole thread and did find the mention of the tool I posted photos of. Pretty sure it's the same one.

Compared to Christian's production of the John Walker tool, the one I have probably requires more attention to detail due to the fact that it's adjustable. JW's tool is pretty much a "plug and play" in comparison, given one has the appropriate disk inserts for the (mostly) exhaust ports. Good design, John!

Christian, I'm sure that there are several folks out there who appreciate the time you've taken to make it available to them. Having done a little machine tool work myself, I can appreciate the time it takes to do this sort of thing......

[A Quiet Boom]

Now available on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911-broken-exhaust-stud-removal-tool_W0QQitemZ4588041440QQcategoryZ35625QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem

I've been really busy of late, building a new house, upgrading my CNC mill, just purchased a larger lathe (maybe I'll make my own wheels for the track car ). I just got all the steel together for a rotissiere for the '73 tub which i hope to get to work on real soon. In addition to the CNC aluminum air filters which I'm still working on (hard to compete with stamped steel in the weight department) I've got several other 911 related ideas up my sleeve including CNC machine brake adapters for 996 brakes on earlier cars. With winter on the way you guys will see me around a whole lot more, especially if I get going on the track car soon.

[RoninLB]

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[Blanco]

Originally posted by RoninLB
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Works for me.

I will add seller to my list for future reference.

[A Quiet Boom]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4588041440&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Maybe this one will work better. It's rather odd that the other link works at my work but not at home. Thanks Ron.

[A Quiet Boom]

Originally posted by Jim Williams
First, I apologize for the double posting of photos... Can't figure out how that happened.

Second, I re-read through the whole thread and did find the mention of the tool I posted photos of. Pretty sure it's the same one.

Compared to Christian's production of the John Walker tool, the one I have probably requires more attention to detail due to the fact that it's adjustable. JW's tool is pretty much a "plug and play" in comparison, given one has the appropriate disk inserts for the (mostly) exhaust ports. Good design, John!

Christian, I'm sure that there are several folks out there who appreciate the time you've taken to make it available to them. Having done a little machine tool work myself, I can appreciate the time it takes to do this sort of thing......

Jim, I was scanning the thread just now and realized I hadn't thanked you for your kind words. Works and family has kept me away from the computer a lot lately plus I just bought a big (22"x72") lathe that I've been having some fun with. I'm also making some parts for another PP member who will remain anonymous for now. On top of that I've finally gotten back to working on my AL air filter setup for carburated cars, that one's much more complex than I had anticipated but things are progressing. (Read: RoninLB I haven't forgotten about you! ). I do this machining thing as a hobby and as a way to make a little extra cash for the P-car habit, I plan to use the CNC and big lathe to make custom 3 piece wheels for the track car whenever I finally get started on it.

BTW, due to feed back for purchasers I've clearanced the tool a bit more to clear some heads that have larger fins than the test heads I have.