Ragamuffin update (still doing bodywork)

[Zeke]

It's been awhile, but I only get a few afternoons a week and the days are short now. What's worse is that I seem to be going backwards.

I had to put in a patch on each side after installing the rockers. This part is not available unless you have a rear fender and if the car is rusty, this is the area that goes first.



So, I saw some bondo adjacent to the patch and so I start to take it off. Now, this is the only part of the car that I didn't strip to bare metal because it looked good. Little did I know. This thing should have been in the Museum of Bondo.



I filed a criss-cross pattern with a Vixen body file to locate high spots. You can see the shiney areas if you look close. The fender isn't that bad. I'm wondering why there was so much bondo on it. It was really thick, like 1/4 inch everywhere. The deep grinding marks are from the previous bondo maestro



Vixen files were made back in the days when bodywork was done in lead. So, I got a wild hair that I should do this area in lead. It's kind of a stress area and with all this welding and grinding, there's got to be a pinhole or two. Lead won't let the rust start like bondo will if moisture gets under it.

I order some tinning compound. You don't just go buy this stuff at AutoZone.



OK, here's an area tinned and ready for lead.



Now I had a pic of the lead flowing on, but I can't find it. Too bad, because I had to hustle to drop the torch, pick up the camera and shoot the pic. I did, and there's a number for it in the camera, but no pic. Anyway, here's how it turned out.



It's a little low on the far side after filing and sanding, but I'll take it. Leading on a verticsl surface that rolls under is tough. Wouldn't a rotissere be nice.



I'll put the right primer on it and skim it with some bondo. A little bondo won't hurt. This is far too much work for a track and canyon car. I do this for fun, though, and this was fun. I haven't had my lead tools out for 20 years.

[Shuie]

thats too cool. Nice work!

[mb911]

MIlt If you can try to oxy weld all of the patches. What happens is that it stress relieves the metal as you weld allowing for manipulation of the part so it can be metal finished with a body file. I have hours and hours of videos that I show my students when they are in trouble of this exact procedure. What you have done is right on thogh. I was thinking of metal finishing my dads 356 sc just for kicks.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

that is the coolest thing I've seen in a long time.

[jpnovak]

Bravo!! I have not seen this in a while. I still want to learn how to do this. maybe a full lead tutorial is in order.

[Tex3]

WOW! Maybe you should sign up for Monster Garage Thats the only time I have seen this type of work.

[azasadny]

Milt,
Great work! My buddy and I restored a '68 Shelby GT500KR back in 1980 and we used lead. I haven't seen anyone use it since.

[Jack Olsen]

You're a maestro, Milt.

[Joe Bob]

Come help me do the doors on my "C"......%^B

[oldE]

Great post, Milt. Nice to have someone show the kids how it was done before plastic.
Les

[Lukesportsman]

I'd be surprised if any body shop hardly use the stuff with OSHA being such a hassle. I leaded my 69 Mustang fastback some 10 years ago. It was my first chance to ever do a car "right" and I was making a full effort to avoid the highschool bondo experiences of a few years earlier. 10 years out and the quarters still look good. Nice work, Milt.

[Tim K]

Milt,
track car or no, a pretty ride will make the whole experience that much better. Although it does hurt more when something happens to it. Keep the updates coming. Until I have time to get back to my project, I'm forced to live vicariously through you guys!

Ben,
there are a number of videos out there. Which ones have you seen? Do you recommend any in particular?

Tim k

[Joe Bob]

I have Uncle Milty/Zeke's old 914...."I'm" impresed with his work....

[Bobboloo]

I'm not worthy...

Go Milt Go!!!