High beams switch on automatically. Why?

[Denis54]

My car will not stay on low beam. As soon as I drive around my car will switch from low to high beams. To stay on low beams, I need to pull slightly on the lever.

What is the problem? Do I need a new turn signal switch? Do you think my present switch can be fixed?

[jfw834]

This is most likely a stalk switch problem. The contacs tend to melt and bend within the unit under heat and sometimes get fried accidently. Mine are permenantly stuck on high beams and my next project is to rip it apart and see if it is fixable. Do a search on stalk switch or turn signal switch and you should be able to read more about ppl that have repaired theirs. A lot easier than most think, and saves a good amount of money since a new switch is over $120. Hope that helps....If I am way off, one of the more experienced guys will slap me swiftly back where I belong.

-Jeff

[fireant911]

I have the same problem - and I just ordered the new switch a couple of days ago. Once I disassemble, I will see if it is fixable without replacement (though it looks as if I will already have a replacement on-hand...).

[al lkosmal]

Nope Jeff,
No slapping required. You are right on. Pretty typical symptoms for screwed up, old, fried contacts. First time it happened to me I took it apart and cleaned, reformed contacts, etc. Lasted a very short time before it wouldn't switch to high beams anymore. Ended up getting a new one. I figured 25+ years of service wasn't too bad. $120/25 years is $4.80/year. cheap fix.

[Walko]

My 911 does the same thing and just falls onto high beam.

I was told by my mech that therre is some spring in there thta can be bent ( i haven't pulled my switch apart yet but I will let you know once I have.)

Michael
74 911
71 911
69 911

['78 SC]

I had the same symptoms. The high beams would come on spontaneously, but moving the stalk slightly would switch back to low beams. Examination of the switch internals showed the thin, springy arms that support the contacts had deformed slightly and were still making contact when there should have been a gap. (The car had been in storage for an extended period, and I suspect the arms may have taken a set.) Trying the cheap approach, I carefully bent (straightened) the arms to restore the gap. Works ok now, but I don't do a lot of night driving so there hasn't been extensive testing.

I also intend to install relays to reduce the current through the switch, particularly since my little alignment trick may have reduced the contact area.

[Walko]

can you advise where you installed teh relays.
Michael

['78 SC]

I haven't installed the relays yet. They're on the list. As usual, there's lots of good info here. Search on "headlight relay". Here's a thread showing the relays installed next to the fuse panel.

The relays would not address the problem described above. They would just improve the life expectance of the (expensive) headlight switch. I agree with Al, the real fix is to replace the switch, but I can't resist at least attempting a fix. Pop the steering wheel, open up the switch housing and see how it looks. When you operate the stalk, it becomes obvious what is going on with the contacts. Good luck.