Metalworkers, what am I doing wrong?

[47silver]

i think vaseline might do it

[Zeke]

I think you guys are coming up with some pretty funky advice. I only say this because someday someone may read this in the archives. I don't want a bunch of wax, oil, grease or vaseline up in the welds when I go to paint. Jeez, talk about contamination!

What I was after initially was a method of getting the acid to turn to a coating like the reprint of the Metal Ready (and I have been using that today) says. Some say don't rinse it with water, it will rust again. (I think I can agree with that at this point). There is a way to wipe it dry and it converts. Maybe this only works when the weather is better.

One of the best 356 restorers in the country, http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/ , is only 10 blocks from the ocean. They leave cars bare for months at a time, wiping them down with something like what I'm looking for. They're actually quite beautiful siiting bare on stands like art. I can tell you that the building they work in isn't all that secure as far as air leaks (read humidity and salt air).

[HarryD]

Milt,

If you haven't already, give Will Hoit a call and ask them what they do. The worst outcome is they don't answer you and you will be no worse off than where you are now.

[widebody911]

Really, check out the weld-thru primer

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_welding_review/cooley_welding.htm

[Zeke]

Actaully, I thought about calling John (Willhoit) today. It would be better to stop by, but I didn't want to spend the time. You see, I won't bother the man if I don't have to, even though we have been acquainted for over 20 years. He is a busy man, no doubt, and he doesn't suffer fools. I hate to use up any favor he might bestow on me in the future.

[HarryD]

Originally posted by Zeke
Actaully, I thought about calling John (Willhoit) today. It would be better to stop by, but I didn't want to spend the time. You see, I won't bother the man if I don't have to, even though we have been acquainted for over 20 years. He is a busy man, no doubt, and he doesn't suffer fools. I hate to use up any favor he might bestow on me in the future.

Milt,

I hear you...

One thought, maybe what you need to do is get the metal cleaned up, hit it with some extend to seal the rusty stuff, and then hit it with a non-porus primer.

another thought is to spend some time at the Autobody paint store. You may turn up a product or two that can help you out. I suspect you are not the the first guy in the world with this problem and they may have already solved it for you.

Remember, that's why they call it REsearch not search.

I'd like to know what you find cuz I may be in your shoes one day.

[Thack]

Simple solution is to just put a coat of paint on the sections you chase the rust away. You are going to wet sand it anyway. Make a make-shift paint booth with plastic sheet and 1x 2 lumber and use a heater or something to dry up the excess moisture.

Mike

[Natog]

http://www.autobodystore.com/r-o-n.htm

I used this in my painting my 912. Great stuff, and a little goes a long way.

[Matt_C]

Zeke....hang in there man, one more day of this crap and I think we're done for a while!

[doozer]

Use the MetalReady and just wash it before you get ready to paint it.
Dont forget that the Por15 uses water as an activator so if you wash an area and then dry it really well you really dont have to wait for it to additionally air dry before you paint it with Por15. I actually accidently painted Por15 over a part that i forgot to wash after using the MetalReady and a few years later it still looks great..

The MetalReady burns if you get overspray and if it is raining make sure that MetalReady enriched rain does not run down anywhere you dont want it Yeoowww..

Thanks
Todd

[creaturecat]

MetalPrep is another trade name - I have used this with great success

[creaturecat]

MetalPrep is another trade name - I have used this product successfully in the past

[fuelie600]

Zeke,

I'll second the PICKLEX-20 recommendation. As long as you can keep the metal from getting wet with rain, it will do the job. You'll need to spray it on the bare metal, then give it a quick rub with a red scotchbrite pad, then wipe off the excess. You can prime directly over the resulting finish. (it actually micro-fuses to the metal.)

When ready for painting, I usually scuff it with a grey scotchbrite before using wax/grease remover then prime.

I treated the body panels on my 1953 MG after sandblasting. They held up great until I was ready to paint them (several months.)

Here's a picture of the treated metal that sat in our guest room for about 5 months.


I would recommend a quart. The pint doesn't go very far.

Good luck!

[HarryD]

Pickelex sounds a bit like Extend. Same concept, apply to cause a protective coating and paint over when you are ready.

Does anyone have the MSDS for Pickelex?

[fuelie600]

http://www.picklex20.com/