broken flapperbox studs.

[safe]

All but 2 (one on each side) studs broke when I removed the old flapper boxes.
My first thought was to just get someone to weld the new boxes in place. But it seems abit...(lacking word for it), not good.

What are my options? I cant see how I could drill out the studs and rethread, its pretty tight.

There is got to be plenty of you out there thats been in my place...

[derek murray]

the link below is a pelican tech article dealing with this very thing... good luck.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/tom_sharpes/heater_box1.htm

[safe]

Yes, I have read that, but i dont like the welding.

[ChrisBennet]

A friend of mine handled this problem using some sort of rivet like nut (rivnut? jet nut?). He borrowed the tool from where he worked. Sorry I don't know anymore about it than that.
-Chris

[Todd Simpson]

I drilled a few holes around the perimeter and used sheetmetal screws.

For those who haven't done this yet use lots of heat, penetrant and love. Those studs snap very easily.

[targa80]

When I did my restore I drilled out the old stud and welded in a new one. I know this is not what you want to do but it was the easiest for me.

[rob justice]

I ground the broken stud flush, centre popped it and drilled it out using 4mm drill then simply re-tapped the thread M5 - its pretty easier using a right angled drill - or even easier with the engine/box removed!!!
Secured the new stud using plenty theadlock - never had any problems at all.

[safe]

I dont have a right angle drill but the engine and tranny is out.
I think I will try Tods idea, if I cant find a compact drill.

btw: the 2 studs thats left is the 2 studs had the most corroded nuts. I had to use a hammer to get on the socket on. Big tip here: Penetrant suck (had it soaking for a week), use a hammer to brake the corrosion or maybe heat. If I had used that, I could maybe have saved all the studs.

[rob justice]

If the engine and box are out - you can use a normal drill no problem - I used a De Walt 18V cordless and it fitted in with ease

[Paul Valcourt]

I had the same thing happen to me. I had just enough thread left that I could start the nut without a gasket between the flapper box and body so I used a high temp silicon seal and tightened the box up. Its been 2 years and no problems.

[J Smith]

Here's my solution:


mmmmm...rust.

Anyway, I drilled it out, re-tapped it, and used a bolt instead. And having the engine out of the car makes this job pretty easy.

[safe]

Well, I ended up using the remaining studs (1 on each side) and then drilled some new holes an used pop-rivets.



I think it will hold up another 27 years and if it must come out its easy to drill out.


Thanks for your inputs!