First timer looking at 83' 911

[Tubes]

Hey folks, this is my first time in this forum so don’t beat me up too badly. I’ve been looking for a 911 to buy/ rebuild. I came across a 1983 911SC turbo wide body slant nose in somewhat rough condition. Charcoal grey, red interior needs carpet & seats dash is in VCG (didn’t look like cover) and sunroof was not leaking. There were a few paint blisters but I didn’t see any seam rust or rust around the windows. The lower front spoiler was messed up, probably a bad park job. The vertical piece under the whale tail had a horizontal crack. Car needs refinished but no signs of being hit or bondo work and looked very strait. Car had a dead battery so I could not start it and owner said it may have a tensioner problem but I was assuming a rebuild anyway. Q- If the tensioner goes and the pistons and valves start hanging out together could this totally destroy the engine or would it still be rebuild-able? I couldn’t see much underneath because the car was on a dirt driveway that was somewhat wet. I was on the road for work with no tools and limited time to check it out. I didn’t see any major leaks just the fine coating you would expect on an engine this old. Would it be safe to start it with a tensioner problem or just turn it over with no spark? I need some solid advice especially on the engine and turbo on what to look for. I have rebuilt American engines and currently rebuilding my 83’ Scirocco (owned since 87) so I have the tools and background to do a successful re-build. I’m ordering the 911 engine re-build book and CD whether or not I buy this car.
Any insight would greatly be appreciated.

Steve

[911mot]

If the seller is serious about selling it then put a battery on it and fire it up before you buy it.

Listen for rattling in the chain covers at fast idle speed.
Check for good oil pressure when hot with revs up.
Check oil level when hot at idle.

Loads more to check but I wouldn't buy it withouit having heard it run. If the owner won't let you start it then somethings up - assume full engine rebuild required and negotiate on that basis.

Good luck

[Cdnone1]

Steve
My advice would be to run away as fast as you can. I would not even begin to start with how many red flags this car has. A big one to start with would be they didn't make an 83 SC turbo. There are too many good cars out there a resonable prices. Wouldn't start, tensioner problems etc This sounds like a bottomless pit you are about to throw your money and time into
Just my 2 cents
steve

[Tubes]

Owner will let me start it I just have to load my tools and drive 2 1/2 hrs. He's hinting around $7500.

[CarreraS2]

Woof!

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally posted by Tubes
Owner will let me start it I just have to load my tools and drive 2 1/2 hrs. He's hinting around $7500.

Now that's a train I wouldn't get on.

Sounds like you are very skilled and unafraid of big projects, so if you have a deep pocket, this car is perfect.

Sounds like a $3500 car.

[crashmy911]

run as fasst as you can. Paint engine rebuild rust poor fit. Sorry get away as fast as possible.

[SLO-BOB]

Ditto on all of the above. I'm relatively new to 911s. Therefore I know the recent market. That sounds like one scary car. You'll pour more money into that heap than it would take to buy a decent car-not including the original purchase price.

Don't be so quick to want to rebuild a motor. Why not get one that runs well and enjoy it for awhile? There's plenty of time to work on it later. Maybe even buy a spent motor and rebuild it while you drive the car. Then swap motors and sell off the other one. Many ways to go-except the street you're headed down.

For just a little more, you can find a nice car that won't kill your wallet-right away. I paid 10.5k for mine and it needs nothing. Trust me, you'll have way more money into the car you're considering before it'll be worth driving. Plus a slantnose? Yuch.

[SLO-BOB]

If you want to do some work-spend less money. Here ya go. There's one in there for $3900. Some other, better cars, for more.

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[kevjandon]

Run, Run as fast as you can, Don't buy this car or your will hit the fan.

Not sure if that was funny or not but is was meant to be.

By the sound of the car you will spend at least 10K just getting it running. Then another 6 to 8 K in paint. Then 3K on the interior and then 7800 for the car. You'll have one bad ass SC when your done that will be worth about 16 to 20K assuming you have good taste in your modifications. You'll be in the car for around 26K assuming you do most of the work yourself.

There are alot of high mileaged well maintained SC's out there in the 9K to 12K area. I'd start there if I were you.

[RickM]

Not looking good from an investment perspective. I agree with just about everything above.


For reference I wrote the following in another thread:

If interested in a flatnose here are things to look for:

- Who did the conversion?
- Where did the conversion parts come from?
- Parts steel or fiberglass

Look very carefully at the fit between the front hood and fenders...should be a uniform gap. Hood height and fender height even?

Inspect the headlights carefully.
- Is the headlight bucket hacked together? Rusting behind the face plate?
- Are they the (factory) proper round headlights? Or rectangular.
- Do the lights clear the front bumper so you get a full beam projected?
- When closed does the light panel fit flush with the rest of the fender and hold a good gap?
- DO THEY SHAKE WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS? (Important)

Check around the front vents.
- Are the louver cuts clean at the ends?

- Use a magnet and check for bondo in the gas filler door area, around the rear brake vents and around where the rear flares are attached.

- Does the gas filler door open properly? Is this area finished properly?

- Are the front fenders and rear flares undercoated properly?

- Check the fit of the front air dam and for repairs. This item is damaged very, very easily.

- Check fit of the rear wing.

- Is there a front oil cooler?

- Is there a modified windshield washer bottle? Does it leak?

- Are the rear vent grates even and securely attached.

Don't forget about a good ole PPI....