Help with Spark Plug Question...

[ascarswell]

Before I get to the other side (I've already swapped out 3 spark plugs) would someone answer two simple questions, please?

1. The Bosch plugs I'm removing have RO 382 on the ceramic part, while the ones Pelican sent me have RO 482. Otherwise, they look identical. Is this okay? What does RO stand for?

2. The Haynes manual states a gap of 0.031 mm, while the box in which the Pelican plugs came states 0.032 mm. Will this make a difference?

A quick response would be great, if anyone would be so kind, as I'm right in the thick of things. Oh yeah - any advice on swapping the distributor cap & rotor before I get to it would be greatly appreciated, too.

Thanks SOOOO much from a newby DIYer...encouraged by all you Pelicanites, and with the knowledge that if I come across a roadblock, you guys will get me through it!

Thanks again.

Cheers
Adam

[kqw]

Set the plug gap to .031 INCHES or .80mm and you'll be just fine.

On the metal base, what are your numbers? W8d? or W145T30?....

Swapping out the dizzy cap and rotor is pretty straight forward. Make sure the rotor seats properly on the dizzy shaft. The cap: I recommend that you replace one wire at a time to ensure the correct firing order.

You'll be just fine

[ascarswell]

Thank you for your quick response & advice, kqw...

The number on the metal base is W8d...is that okay?

Also, how crucial is it to gap to .031 inches? Number one, I don't have a gap key, number two, three are already out of the box & installed. I have the other side out, but have yet to reinstall new plugs. The old ones don't look that dirty. I'll get my camera and put a couple photos up to get your input. I bought the car in June and have no idea how long it's been, but my mechanic recommended I change them based on his test drive.

Regarding the "dizzy" cap & rotor, I planned to replace one wire at a time. Thanks for the reassurance.

Cheers,
Adam

[kqw]

W8d's are the correct plugs.....Gap setting is essential... Also, just because the box say's they are gapped doesn't mean they are... Get a gap tool and set them RIGHT .031 INCHES not MM OK? ....Then torque the plugs to 18ft/lbs, OK?

Drive on and enjoy......

[ascarswell]

Thanks again, for the advice...

How the hell do you get a torque wrench in their??? :-)

Here's a photo of the removed plugs...they're in order looking from the engine hood at the engine...

front left...............front right
mid left.................mid right
rear left................rear right

Any thoughts in terms of clues you'd get from the evidence on the plugs???

Thanks again & again!!! I'm going to scavage the neighborhood for a gapping tool.

Cheers,
Adam

[kqw]

I've got a snap-on 3/8" drive torque wrench. Fits fine with correct extensions and locking plug socket.

If you don't have a torque wrench you can feel it out by noticing when the crush ring around the plug gives. Snug but not tight....

You'll be fine but get that gap correct or you'll negate your efforts.

[kqw]

By the way...no pic's cam through....

[kqw]

I see the Pic's now...Slow BBS I guess..

I see a little oil on Mid-Left or it could be excess anti-sieze that the PO used.... Watch this in the future. Otherwise, your condition looks quite OK....

You are fine what what I can see....

[ascarswell]

Found a gapping tool at the first neighbor I checked! All plugs seemed to be gapped nicely to .031 in.

Took it for a quick test and didn't even get around the block and knew something was wrong. Back to the garage and found one loose wire. Clicked it in, and out for round two. UNBELIEVABLE!! The oil pressure at idle's gone up, and the car is smooth as it's been since I've owned it. I can't believe the difference. Thank you so much for the assurance you've given, kqw. It's nice to have someone to bounce questions off.

I'm taking my 6 year old to lunch, then back to swap out the "dizzy" cap & rotor...

Thanks again,
Adam