How hard to remove CIS

Brother · 02-10-2005, 04:51 PM

What is the difficulty level of removing the CIS airbox? I just need to remove and replace the rubber boots.

Superman · 02-10-2005, 04:56 PM

It's a snap with the engine out. With the engine in, you'll have to disconnect the fuel hoses, there is a small bracket on the back I think, to help hold the weight of the box. It is located in the vicinity of that square throttle linkage plate thingie on top of the motor, near the firewall, on the left side of the motor. Other than this little bracket, I think the weight of the air box is held by the intake runners themselves. Of course, you would need to remove the twelve nuts holding the intake runners to the heads. Or three at least, on one side. Then perhaps the air box can slide sideways, off the other three.

But again, mostly this is done with the engine out of the car. If you get that far, be sure to replace the oil thermostat o-ring, under the grey air shroud thingie on the right side of the motor, in the back.

Brother · 02-10-2005, 05:28 PM

crap. I was hoping there was away to not drop the engine.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Brother,

If you just want to replace the old intake rubber boots of your '80 SC car, it's doable. It is a lot easier when the engine is out as mentioned earlier. You have to disconnect or remove several things like the aux. air regulator hose, intake manifolds nuts, WUR, oil breather, and support bracket for the air box located of the left rear side. And the metal straps of the rubber boots.

Work on one side at a time only. If you could remove the manifolds out, you could install the new rubber boots back. Start with cylinder 1 or 4 and work your way in.

The time you will spend to complete this task and the difficulties you will encounter is so much that I would prefer to lessen the burden by dropping the engine out. Good luck....

Tony

Brother · 02-10-2005, 06:46 PM

I'm between houses right now and I don't have a full compliment of tools. I might have to pay to have 3-6, $4 parts installed. Ugg. Thats going to be like 400 bucks minimum.

john walker's workshop · 02-10-2005, 06:56 PM

the 80-83 engines with the oxygen sensor/frequency valve system are a real pain to do with the engine in the car. there's a lot of crap around the front of the engine that is almost impossible to get at. highly recommended to remove the engine on those. as for doing one intake tube at a time, ain't gonna happen.

Brother · 02-10-2005, 07:09 PM

I appreciate the help.

Either Bob Jones get this one or I take some time off work.

I would eventually like to rebuild the engine into a SS 3.2 with PMO's, SSI's, and S cams.

Can I get away with 46 PMO's now without any other mod? Any help would be appreciated.

john walker's workshop · 02-10-2005, 07:12 PM

no. too big for a 3.0, unless it's a hot rodded race car. 40's work well though.

randywebb · 02-10-2005, 08:45 PM

yes you can w/o other mods - jet it rich and don't use 46's

you can change the cams later (note - will also have to change the pistons)

clevy70911T · clevy70911T's Garage

I have an 81 and I took my CIS and airbox out with a partial drop without much problem.

Partial Drop.

Its practice for the full drop.

Brother · 02-11-2005, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by clevy70911T
I have an 81 and I took my CIS and airbox out with a partial drop without much problem.

Partial Drop.

Its practice for the full drop.

How did you get just the airbox out?

Superman · 02-11-2005, 04:36 AM

Hey, Brother! Partial drop is what you'd have to do, at least. My first pick would be to put this off. If there are no actual tears in those boots, I might suggest leaving them alone until the engine comes out next. Or perhaps just wrapping them with tape for temporary insurance against vacuum leaks. That's first pick.

Second pick would be a partial engine drop. Unhook the two rectangular electrical plugs. Perhaps the fuel hoses. Maybe the throttle linkage. But without too much trouble you can be in a position to remove the bolts from the two engine mounts just under the deck lid, perhaps loosen the ones on the other end (tranny). Oh, and don't forget to just disconnect the shift linkage under the plate between the rear seat footwells. Just a simple set screw...don't mess with the adjustment. Then, with the car raised and a floor jack under the engine, you can drop the front of the engine (rear of the car, closest to the rear bumper) down several inches. Several sorely-needed inches, for this project.

Again, I'd leave it alone if possible.

clevy70911T · clevy70911T's Garage

I took out everything on top of the airbox, after following the partial drop procedure. I separated the airbox into it's 2 pieces and didn't remove the bottom part. After checking all the hoses to the metal intake runners, I epoxied the 2 airbox pieces together with clamps and reassembled. YOU would need to replace the gasket between the 2 airbox pieces obviously rather than epoxy and probably have to pull the intake runners to replace the rubber boots. I wish I had taken pictures. Everything is pretty accessible with the partial, especially after the fuel distributor and throttle body are off. I was able to find a loose cold start valve, replace a couple vaccuum lives and a install a missing fuel distributor-to-airbox gasket. You could start with apartial drop and if you dont like the looks of it, go ahead and completely drop the engine then. Hope this helps.

Brother · 02-13-2005, 06:16 AM

three weeks or so and the engine comes out.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Brother,

Twelve years ago, I encountered the same predicament. My mechanic with extensive Porsche & Ferrari experience recommended engine drop for replacing the intake rubber boots. I trusted him and I still believe in him. I did not want to spend that kind of money for simple job like this.

Without an engine drop nor partial drop, I was able to remove the whole CIS unit (Air box plus manifolds). Replaced the boots and hooked up the CIS unit back.

By the way, I also replaced the thermostat and the oil switch after removing the alternator & fiberglas shroud. This may not be the common practice of the 'Experts' but imagination and perseverance are what you need at times like this.

There was a time in our history that the world was believed to be flat by the most brilliant minds that ever lived. Experts could be wrong some times.........After doing several engine drops, I would prefer to take the engine out when doing this kind of work. Just my two-cents....

TD

VaSteve · 02-13-2005, 11:30 AM

Here's my experience since I'm doing this today.
I took my CIS off (engine is out) and am doing the job on the work bench.

You can take each intake off individually, if you have it out of the car.
Mine were probably never changed and the screws are oriented on 3 of the intakes 3, 5 & 6, towards the back, so you can't do that while it's in the car.

Brother · 02-13-2005, 12:00 PM

I'll drop it, and do the runners, runner gaskets, tranny and pulley seals (leaking), thermostat o ring, oil cooler seals, and relace both oil lines from the thermostat back. If all goes well, I'll adjust the valves and do the fan belt while the motor is out. Also, copious amounts of cleaning.

Two guys in the area are going to help with the work. My thanks to the host, and I'll be calling tommorow to give you my order.

If I had more money right now, I would put in four WEVO engine mounts. Oh well later...

Question - do you really need that special tool for the pulley seal installation? Are the oil wrenches sold by our host in a set of four worth it?

yelcab1 · 02-13-2005, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boyt911sc
Brother,

... After doing several engine drops, I would prefer to take the engine out when doing this kind of work. Just my two-cents....

TD

What the ... ?

After slamming the experts, you then agree with them !!!

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Yelcab1,

What I was trying to explain is that CIS Unit could be removed from the engine without any engine drop. It may not be the method of choice by many but its doable.

I may disagree with the 'expert' opinion but I still have high respect for him. This does not mean because you have a disagreement with knowledgeable person you're disrespecting him. On the contrary, he's still number #1 on my list.

Respectfully Yours,
TD

VaSteve · 02-13-2005, 01:36 PM

You sounds like you're doing what I'm finishing up now. Let me give you some advice....

Quote:

Originally posted by Brother
I'll drop it, and do the runners, runner gaskets, tranny and pulley seals (leaking), thermostat o ring, oil cooler seals, and relace both oil lines from the thermostat back. If all goes well, I'll adjust the valves and do the fan belt while the motor is out. Also, copious amounts of cleaning.

You have no idea how much cleaning you will do! You'll get sick of it, and then feel remorse that you stopped. There will be parts you will take off to clean and you'll be sorry you did as well as parts you don't take off and wish you had.

Quote:

Two guys in the area are going to help with the work. My thanks to the host, and I'll be calling tommorow to give you my order.

You'll be calling back as well. Again and again for all the little stuff you forgot to order (microscopic washers and sealing rings), stuff you broke (wiring harnesses), stuff that was no good but you didn't know it before you "got in there" (accelerator bushings) and other stuff you feel like buying "because you're in there."

Quote:

Question - do you really need that special tool for the pulley seal installation? Are the oil wrenches sold by our host in a set of four worth it?

Do you mean the rear main seal? The $100 tool? No. A nice chunk of wood will do.

Good luck!