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I did try the sawsall and the body saw to cut out the flares. I do reccomend the body saw. Much easier to control, and the sawsall dented the flare in a few spots.

If I can't find a good alternative to a 250 buck glue dispensor, I'll be firing up the welder this weekend.

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Old 04-11-2005, 02:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Welding practice.

Fired up the lincoln last night. Took some of the steel left from the trimming of the flares, cut a 6" line with the body saw, then practiced stitch welding it back together. Took a little trial and error to get the settings right for good penetration without burning through, but I think I got it.



heheheh, hey Beavis, he said penetration.



Trial fitting, I'll pick up a flapper disk today at lunch, paint comes off tonight (after I work on dtw's doors a bit, )



Ahhh, spring in the south, have that lovely green pearl coat now.

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John Helgesen
Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design

"Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet"
Old 04-14-2005, 04:26 AM
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what's that OTHER porsche there? dtw's?

sjd
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Old 04-14-2005, 04:58 AM
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yeah, thats Daves 72 next to mine, and a jensen healey under the car cover in the driveway.
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John Helgesen
Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design

"Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet"
Old 04-14-2005, 05:20 AM
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if you burn a hole dont panic..hold a chunk of brass behind it and work your way arond the hole (not all at once)......if I were to do it again I would also give it a good hamoring on the weld seem as I went (dolly on one side hamor the other)......I cant stress enogh to make sure you have no pin holes in it when done......use a proper sealer on the back of seem as insurance
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Old 04-14-2005, 08:00 AM
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I'll use some POR on the back side, then squirt some 3m undercoat over that.

For burned holes, I usually just turn down the voltage and zap the edges a few times. I've used some copper I have to fill some drilled holes before, works well.

Still learning about metal working, what does hammering the welds do for you? Relieve stress or something?
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John Helgesen
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:14 AM
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John, Hammering the welds will flatten them slightly. MIG wire is so hard it is difficult to hammer them while they are hot enough to do something. Once cooled they can dent a body hammer.

There have been some posts about using a Si/Bronze allow that welds much better. I have not been able to find any.

Yes, copper or bronze backing plates work well. Thick the better for head absorbtion.
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:32 AM
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Well I dont mean beat the crap out of it....but if you have a pin hole there giving the weld a smack might just fill it in
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:36 AM
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Somebody stop him, he's gone mad!

15 minutes with the body saw and I've got this!



My new best friend in the shop is a 60grit flapper disk. Boy did it take the paint off.



Trial fit of the fender looks even better now.



Anyone need a nice pair of early rear arches?

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John Helgesen
Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design

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Old 04-15-2005, 04:01 AM
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The reason you hammer and dolly welds is to stretch them back out. Welds shrink the area...see the blue, that is metal that is in need of a little stretching to get the surface area correct. Mig-welding is not the best choice for this kind of work. You must grind the weld on both sides before using a hammer and dolly. Tig, or gas welds are easily stretched without grinding. Here is an article that might help:

http://metalshapers.org/101/jkelly/index.html

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

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Old 04-15-2005, 05:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #30 (permalink)
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