i need some CIS help. starting to give up :(

[cantdrv55]

Cliff, quit screwing around with your mixture already. Didn't you tell me you had a shop dial it in for you? Replace the accumulator and filter. I'll even make you a deal. I have a brand new accum and filter that you can swap in. If they fix the problem, buy them from me. If not, I'll take them back. You can't lose! Call me on my cell.

[Westy]

Yeah, Cliff, what Chris said!! That way you won't steal my parts!!

[vash]

this thing is making me mental.

i agree, mixture is best done by someone with the tools. i took my car to a mechanic, and he helped me check everything. freq valve, aav.... my mix was lean, and my timing was off. believe me, it runs tons better. but again, when the car is parked steeping in it's heat, (approx 45 mins) when it starts, it starts immediately., but chugs along. i got voltage at the WUR, but when i took it off to take a look i noticed someone in the past had dropped it. there is a dent at one of the screw heads. and i only have 9ohms at the connection.

can a WUR be bad, when the pressures are decent?
and any experience with rebuilt WUR's. still trouble shooting, but wondering, just in case.

thank guys
cliff.
p.s. due to my extended vacation, i estimated the fuel to be 6-7 weeks old, so i took it out and added fresh stuff, from chevron.

[jstobo]

I think it is your accumulator. 22 psi is too low. The pressure should stay close to your warm control pressure for about 20 minutes. Probst says 3 bar for 20 minutes(44 psi). I know my old Mercedes would hold 40 psi forever. Good Luck.

[yelcab1]

Originally posted by bigchillcar
if i recall correctly, another quick check is to simply remove the oil filler cap while running..it will let a lot of air into the sytem and should kill the engine, but if it's running extremely RICH, it probably won't die. anyone else recall the details of this check?
ryan

If it dies, how are we supposed the check the engine oil level "while the engine idles and on level ground?"

[yelcab1]

Originally posted by cantdrv55
Cliff, quit screwing around with your mixture already. Didn't you tell me you had a shop dial it in for you? Replace the accumulator and filter. I'll even make you a deal. I have a brand new accum and filter that you can swap in. If they fix the problem, buy them from me. If not, I'll take them back. You can't lose! Call me on my cell.

Can't get a better deal than that, Cliff.

[vash]

mitchell, i checked and me and chris have different part numbers on the accumulator. i would have.

[fintstone]

Check out the last couple paragraphs:
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/2-2002.htm

Stoney

[Rondinone]

Intake leak! If your control pressures check out, then you're running lean because of a leak. It runs better cold because it's overly rich when cold.

[vash]

thanks stoney. and everyone else. back at it this morning. I SHALL PREVAIL!

[cnielsen]

Just fixed a similar problem.... chased all the miscellaneous things, did all the CIS pressure test and it ended up being damn air leak in the big boot on the top of the throttle body. Those damn vacuum leaks with kill you. Anyway, problem fixed now and happy motoring.

Good luck...I understand your frustration.

Chris

[Moke81]

Popping through intake to lean. Popping through exhaust to rich

1981SC

[JP911]

Cliff-
You need any help? Sitting here looking at the rain and trying to figure out ways to procrastinate on painting a bathroom and hallway. I am sooooo sick of f---ing house projects!!! PM me if you want to stop by.
-Jon

[Jim Williams]

Vash (or is it Cliff?),

The next time you have the problem, remove the air filter, reach in and raise the air flow sensor plate breifly, like 3-4 seconds. You should hear a sort of whine from the injectors spraying. Not too long or you can flood the engine. Then crank the engine and see if the problem has improved. Sounds to me like bubbles in the gas in the injector lines could be the problem. Worth a shot, and it's cheap.

Your residual pressures seem to be in spec, but this might not tell the whole story.

[sammyg2]

Yelcab1, I think what was meant is that if it is running very lean and you pull the cap, it could cause the engine to stop running due to extremely lean condition. The extra air would prolly push it over the edge.
Obviously if it is adjusted to spec it will continue to run but will stumble a bit. If it is idling too rich, opening the cap and allowing in un-metered air might actually help the idle a bit.

[vash]

ok, i am effen taking a break.

car runs fine, but still upon startup warm, after sitting for a bit, the idle will stumble around @ 500 rpm. schit doesnt happen when there is a mechanic around.

adjusted timing, mix.
WUR ohms went huge warm, (thinking about this some more, it shouldnt matter, car is hot anyways), and big dent in it, made me change it out.
new acumulator, and since i was there, new filter.
fresh gas. found crack vacumn line to WUR and replaced it.
had a new oil cap gasket around, so i put it in.
freq valve checked. looked for vacumn leaks at injectors, none.
*****, the list goes on. gonna flashlight the AAV manana.

showered, garaged closed, i am gonna eat out, drink some and hang with the girlfriend. i think she understands CIS now, i talk about it so much.

cliff

[clevy70911T]

Originally posted by vash
thanks stoney. and everyone else. back at it this morning. I SHALL PREVAIL!

You're not alone friend, I'm still tracking down an high idle problem. We will prevail!

[vash]

scott, i think high idle is easier than low idle. good luck

edit: AAV is AAVing perfectly. NEXT!

[Jim Williams]

Cliff,

Did you ever try my suggestion to briefly lift up on the air flow sensor before you try the start, in a situation where you think you are going to have the warm start problem?

[yelcab1]

Originally posted by vash
I am gonna eat out, drink some and hang with the girlfriend. i think she understands CIS now, i talk about it so much.

cliff

I need one of those.