Rennaire procooler really drop vent temps by 20 degrees??
 

thinking hard about this..i've read the threads. i've got the sanden rotary already..not sure if i have updated barrier hose or not - they can't be original, definitely replaced (is there a way to tell for sure?)

anyway, i appear to only have the rear condenser..if there is one in the front, i'll be damned if i know where it is..my evaporator and blower motor all work fine. if just adding a $300 procooler will honestly drop my vent temps a true 20 degrees..i'm way satisfied with that. any testimonials on adding just the procooler for a 20 drop? i think i;d be willing to do it for even 10 degrees!
ryan

I had a procooler on a '78 and it did help, but it was not a Miracle Worker. What you have to keep in mind is that if the system is working properly, the Procooler will lower the vent temps (how much probably varies). If, on the other hand, your system has a problem, like a slow leak, clogged fins on the evaporator or condenser, poor compressor, the procooler will probably not make you see any difference. In other words, it will not 'fix' a problem, only 'help' a normally operating system.
Good luck, and post your results-

Ryan: I've got a ProCooler, and I'm very happy with the results. 20 degrees? Not likely, but it's definitely helped.

Also, the Sanden is NOT a rotary condenser. Go to their web page and you'll find out that it's a wobble plate, piston compressor. As far as I know, the only true rotary is the Seiko.

Do a search here on the board. I think Jim Sims (our resident a/c guru) posted something on how to tell whether you have barrier hoses. The bottom line is that you should not waste your time working on the a/c without either (a) knowing the hoses are barrier, or (b) installing barrier hoses yourself.

If you have a front condenser it's in the very front of the car. It's easiest to see it if you kneel down in front of the car, and look up. It's protected by a mesh screen, and it's behind the "skid bar" or whatever that curved tube is in the front that protects the underside of the car from steep driveways. Also, if you look inside the trunk, in the front right corner, you should see a large cooling fan that pulls air across the condenser.

Good luck.

Ditto. 20 degrees? No way. It does help. Moving, I have high 30's vent temps on 134 with a stock system and a procooler. Biggest issue for me is airflow over the condesor in traffic; some folks have added small 12v fans, which seems like a logical improvement.

How do you think this would work?

New lines, condensors cleaned, Sanden 507, R134a, small fans attached to decklid condensor.

Waste of time to get procooler or make one?

Small fans are prolly a waste of time. Add a condenser and a Procoler.

Add a condenser, barrier hoses and charge with R-12.

See the following:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=176468&highlight=conden ser+dimensions

I beg to differ with Scottb on the fan, when used in conjunction with an additional condenser it does provide some support during stop and go traffic.

Bill: Do you really think some small fans on the rear decklid condenser help? It seems to me that the engine's fan, even in traffic, will pull more air across the condenser. I agree that a fan on an additional condenser is a must (I did it on my front left condenser), but adding little fans to the rear condenser seems to be "a pea in the ocean."

Pro Cooler
 

I just finished adding a Pro Cooler, new lines, a larger serpentine condenser on the rear and a new serpentine evaporator. Using R-134 the results are unbelievable. It works like a real AC system!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I do not know which of the changes made the most difference but the combination is super.

si Banker: Tell me about the large serpentine condenser. How did you fit it? Can you post pics?

Scott,

I used a single 9" spal fan and it seems to have helped. It was installed at the same time the rear fender condenser so I can't really say what the contribution is. I can say that the air moving directly over the fan throught the tail grill / condenser is significantly greater with the fan. I could test the effectiveness of the fan by disconnecting it and checking pressures and temps though that might be way too scientific. Also if it turns out the fan makes no contribution I might feel the A/C is less effective. Remember its all about perception.

What about ditching the tail condensor altogether and help imporve engine cooling? Run an aux. condensor in the wheel well?

You can get rid of the front and rear condensors if you install a 964\993 front wheel well condensor. If you take the system apart to install barrier hoses, source the hose locally and get it in bulk. Way cheaper. I replaced all my hoses and fittings for about $200. I bought my hose and fittings from HoseFast in Dallas but most cities have someplace the local mechanics use for custom brake lines and AC.

Pro Cooler
 

The condenser is custom made by a shop here in Fort Worth. It is about half again as larger as the stock one, which I am selling for $175.00, and is curved like the radiator on a sport bike. He described it as a serpentine condenser.

The fit is very tight and it comes with the necessary hardware. I can assure you the results are worth it.

Re: Pro Cooler
 

Can you post a picture, and the name of the shop that did the work?

will the 964/993 condensor fit in the front wheel well?

Why would you want to decrease condenser surface. The key to effective a/c is heat exchange. The more condenser surface, the more heat exchange. The more heat exchange, the better the a/c.

It seems to me that you'd want to add the 964/993 condenser in addition to the existing condensers. Am I missing something here? :confused:

Jared,

Listen to Scottb, he's so smart

I think Jack Olsen uses a Performance Aire belly condenser instead of an engine lid condenser with good results. Hopefully he'll chime in here.

I have no desire to put a condensor under my car... I probably cant afford it anyway....

Does the 964/993 condensor fit in the wheel well?