Window regulator

Argeo · 07-18-2005, 07:58 PM

I have spent a couple hours trying to get my right window regulator in on my 77 c3. I bought a pair of manual window regulators to replace my power. The power are gone. It seems that the window at half height run out of length where the window meets the regulator. As a result, the window pops out. It also seems that when the regulator goes down, it heads down and towrds the inside of the car, not in line with the door fram runners puttong a ton of stress on the regulator, The whole thing worked fine until I put the door frame in. Could I have the wrong regulators or is there something else I could be missing.

Thanks,

David

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 04:43 AM

Sorry, I was half asleep when I wrote last night. The window worked fine as far as going up and down when the window frame was not installed into the door. When I have been attaching the window to the regulator, I would lower the window probably 3/4 of the way and attach the connect the regulator to the window at the hole on the regulator closest toward the front of the car. I would then roll up a bit higher than 1/2 way and put line the connect the remaining window connector to the regulator. The problem is that the window at half way has both connections at the place where I connected to them and they pop out. I would think the connector pieces that go into the regulator bar would be further from where they were inserted.

Regarding the path, it seems like when the regulator goes down and doesn't stay in line with the tracks on the window frame. It seems to head inwards.

Could I be using a wrong regulator. The piece that mounts to the window is the original piece, just the regulator is different.

Please help before I take out regulators and create some cable scheme.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

David

RoninLB · 05:19 AM

there's a couple of pelicanheads who are really informed with a lot of experience so I'll do a "maybe".

The window frame is adjustable in&out. The regulator is seperate from the frame so "maybe" you can align the frame? What I do is keep the frame bolts loose and roll the glass up&down to get the least glass restriction from the felt. Somewhere in the top center-foreward area of the actual door is a bolt that'll slide in&out.

I assume the rollers haven't shrunk from wear.

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 05:25 AM

Thanks for responding RoninLB.

If you mean the pieces on the regulator that connect to the track on the window (plastic pieces), they seem fine. They catch good, it is just that at the middle position, the rollers are at the holes where they were inserted on the regulator.

David

RoninLB · 07-19-2005, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Argeo

They catch good, it is just that at the middle position, the rollers are at the holes where they were inserted on the regulator.

oh.. maybe the metal track that's attached to the glass has slid or you attached it without taking the measurements ? There is metal to glass attachment specs around somewhere.

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 05:45 AM

Maybe it moved. I never took off the glass when I took them out. They seemed stuck for good.

Do you know if I should have attached the window to the regulator before I put the door frame in? Is there some sequence to this that I am missing?

Thanks again,

David

RoninLB · 07-19-2005, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Argeo

Do you know if I should have attached the window to the regulator before I put the door frame in? Is there some sequence to this that I am missing?

I believe I attached the regulator to the door with the glass removed. Then the glass was installed. Then the window frame installed with loose bolts. With the frame loose rock the frame in&out or to the left and right of the door position. This will give you a heads up on the attachment&allignment of the frame. I then rolled the glass up&down to give me the least restriction of the glass&frame felt. If we're ok so far take note how the top of the window frame sits in the rubber molding in case it leaks air when driven.

the glass metal support should be open to the inside of the car so you can see the rollers in the support.

Also note that the proper position of mounting the metal support to the glass is with the guide channel extending beyond the part that attaches to the glass. Check all this so we know the metal support isn't reversed.

also I assume you have the original regulator that is only supported by the regulator body at the door. The new style has an additional support attached to one of the two arms that connects the regulator to glass support ?

The old style has a measurement of 8.8mm space from the foreward glass edge to the foreward metal support.

party hearty

techweenie · techweenie's Garage

Is this a 3-arm regulator or a parallel-arm regulator?

Updating to the 3-arm requires some drilling but gives you more adjustability.

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 07:06 AM

Maybe we are on to something here.

The metal window supports are facing outward so I can not see the rollers in the support. Maybe I have the regulators on the wrong doors. As I had mentioned, the window supports were never removed so and were stuck in place. Not sure if possible but if I should be able to see the roller slide on the regulator, something is wrong. I should be attaching the window to the plastic square correct, not the other side?

RoninLB · 07-19-2005, 07:38 AM

Maybe I have the regulators on the wrong doors.
-------- you should be able to see the regulator coil spring from sitting inside.. the coil faces the interior of the car.

I should be attaching the window to the plastic square correct, not the other side?
------- meaning you don't have rollers on your regulator? meaning you have the old style that is pre roller? I don't understand the question?

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 07:56 AM

These regulators are from the early 70's so I believe it is the parallel type. No drilling required, it lined right up to the door.

I will have to look at the whole thing tonight when I get home. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the help guys.

David

RoninLB · 07-19-2005, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Argeo

Thanks for all the help guys.

hold on there Dave. We have more fun below.

techweenie · techweenie's Garage

The pictures are of the three-arm regulator.

Argeo, if you have the parallel type, it cannot be put in backwards. The window crank shaft has to come out the inside door panel.

Although they are power regulators, look at the photo on this thread:

F/S power window regulators from 77S

The square sliding blocks that ride in the window rail face the outside skin of the door. At no point in the window travel should they be less than their full width from the openings in the window rail...

If your regulator has rollers instead of square sliders, it is a later 3-arm type and may not be compatible with your early window rails.

Argeo · 07-19-2005, 09:55 AM

My car is a 77 and I know the regulators are from some time early than mine but in the seventies. Doug from Ohio is the guy I got them from. I think a 74. It bolted in perfectly, no driling required.

The regulator has two white plastic squares that fit nicely into the rail on the window if the window frame is not included. If you were going from the inside door body to the outer door body, it would currently go like this: Regulator, White plastic squares that go into into window rail. Maybe I have the glass on the wrong side of the regulator. Maybe I should try putting it on the side closest to the outside door body.

I will look again tonight.

Thanks,

David

Argeo · 07-21-2005, 04:52 AM

Ok, I tried again to no prevail. I believe the problem is that the piece attached to the window is the wrong size for the regulator. I think it is too long. I took the whole thing apart and redid it a couple more times. The same thing kept happening. When the window would get about half way, the plastic connectors would be at the holes they were inserted into and they would pop out. The piece on the glass did not move. They are identical on each window as far as location and I felt I could not budge them without either destroying the seal or the glass. Icould have sworn I saw in my Haynes manual regulators that looked idetical but had different length bars that the the plastic pieces are connected to.

Anyone need any manual regulators?

I can't afford regulators at the moment so I am thinking about doing straps instead. I had actually given that some thought in the past since the car has taken on sort of a hot rod theme versus a all stock car. Anyways, any idea how this is done? It should be easy to attach to window and I can weld or screw on a place for the strap to connect to the door. I guess my question is, where do the straps go throught the door and if I am cutting holes, how would I make it strong enough to support window and smooth enough that the straps don't wear out prematurely?

Thanks,

David

evren · 07-21-2005, 05:15 AM

Paul (pwd72s) just sent me two great articles on window regulators from old issues of PANO (Aug 86, July 82). I've scanned them but Wayne automatic resizing doesn't seem to work right now... I'll try to resize them manually later, or if anyone would like the uncompressed version just PM me or send an email to evren (at) turkven (dot) com.

... and David, if you really are serious about getting rid of your regulators, I am interested...

Argeo · 07-21-2005, 07:37 AM

Thanks Evren.

I will let you know on the regulators.

David

1411506 · 01-22-2008, 09:15 AM

Just put my doors back together with the original regulators, but new to the car windows/channels. I am experiencing this same thing - when the windows are closed, then rolled down, at about 1/3 the way down, the window channel pops off the regulator at the spot where the rollers are inserted.
In order for the window to go down all the way, the rollers must pass the part of the channel that widens to allow the regulator to attach to the window channel and the window pops off...
This is a 70 911T.
Anyone else experienced this, and/ or has a solution?
I'm thinking that the window channel is incorrect....
Thanks in advance, Rob

1411506 · 01-23-2008, 07:46 AM

This is really frustrating - I want to put my door back together, but can't till I figure out why the window channel keeps popping off the regulator.
Hasn't anyone else experienced this?
Thanks.

butzi73 · 02-06-2008, 01:29 PM

OK, I see this thread started in 2005 and was just recently continued by Rob who seems to be having the same problem. I just discovered that I am also having the same problem.

Exactly what Rob just said 2 messages above - At the point where the window roller extends to the end of the channel (towards the back of the door), it pops out of the hole. Mine will stay in if the window is cranked very slowly, but if it's cranked with normal force it pops out of the channel/track hole at the end.

I was almost thinking of trying to weld in a little piece of metal to close the hole off a bit. Either that or get a whole new part and try to instal it. Both options don't sound that easy to me. I can actually take a photo of it tonight and post it. Maybe at least Rob and I can compare notes.

Thanks,
~Cary